• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

fuse box connector broke can I use something else?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

Guest
I found my electrical problem you were right to check the fuse box which I did many times but what i did not notice was the clip had broken loose and when you put the fuse in one side is fine and the other side goes towards the backside of the fuse box and gets hot.

I thought I read on here about getting a generic fuse box that take the plastic fuses instead of the glass but I can not find any information in the search. Could someone let me know if this can be done.

I found one on ebay but not sure if it will work plus I could like to get this fixed before supper melt down. Please let me know. thanks cj
 
Re: fuse box connector broke can I use something else?

CJ, the back panel of that fuse box should come off. I believe ir you look closely at the top edge/seam on the back, you will see a tiny slot. You should be able to pop it off with a small blade screwdriver. Once you have acces to the inside connections, you can remove the faulty one and use an inline fuse to connect the wire ends involved/removed from the box. The back panel should snap back into place when youre done.

How many fuses are in your box? I may have one in my spare parts stuff but I wont have a chance to look through it before monday.

Earl

cjexotic said:
I found my electrical problem you were right to check the fuse box which I did many times but what i did not notice was the clip had broken loose and when you put the fuse in one side is fine and the other side goes towards the backside of the fuse box and gets hot.

I thought I read on here about getting a generic fuse box that take the plastic fuses instead of the glass but I can not find any information in the search. Could someone let me know if this can be done.

I found one on ebay but not sure if it will work plus I could like to get this fixed before supper melt down. Please let me know. thanks cj
Click to expand...
 
It has 5 fuses and its the bottom one. That is the one that was getting hot and thats why.

Now am I understanding you right. I remove the back which I did and their is a wires running down both sides. I just cut the bottom one off the bad connector from both sides? now I have and inline fuse. I connect one end of it to the left wire and the other end of the inline to the other wire?
so its a loop. and then put my 10 amp fuse in the holder and I am off and running with lights and turnsignals? Is this right? Don't want to burn up the old girl. lol thanks cj
 
Earl..I have another question. I broke the button that slides for your turnsignals. I have never had it off and when I went to disassemble it to clean the board off (i thought this was my problem) I thought you turn it to get if off. Well I got away with that but after cleaning and I put it on and twisted it into the slot (thinking that is how its done) and the t tab broke off. I can (with whats left) move the slide but I can not drive and hold the buttonl. Do you have an extra button or a brain storm on how I can rig this. Hate to have to buy a whole housing just for the button.

thanks cj
 
You got it CJ. :-) Its that simple.

Earl


cjexotic said:
It has 5 fuses and its the bottom one. That is the one that was getting hot and thats why.

Now am I understanding you right. I remove the back which I did and their is a wires running down both sides. I just cut the bottom one off the bad connector from both sides? now I have and inline fuse. I connect one end of it to the left wire and the other end of the inline to the other wire?
so its a loop. and then put my 10 amp fuse in the holder and I am off and running with lights and turnsignals? Is this right? Don't want to burn up the old girl. lol thanks cj
Click to expand...
 
Did you have the four way button? The one the moves up and down for hi'/lo beam and then right/left for turns sig? Or did you have separate switches for hi/lo and turn signals? I may have a button for the separate style, but I know I dont for the combined type.

Earl


cjexotic said:
Earl..I have another question. I broke the button that slides for your turnsignals. I have never had it off and when I went to disassemble it to clean the board off (i thought this was my problem) I thought you turn it to get if off. Well I got away with that but after cleaning and I put it on and twisted it into the slot (thinking that is how its done) and the t tab broke off. I can (with whats left) move the slide but I can not drive and hold the buttonl. Do you have an extra button or a brain storm on how I can rig this. Hate to have to buy a whole housing just for the button.

thanks cj
Click to expand...
 
1980 had the comb switch You will have to replace the complete assembly
 
yes i have that 4 way (up-down and left - right) they are very expensive to replace. None on ebay either. that is where I get most of my parts.
thanks for the info on the fuse box. I just wanted to make sure as it sounded too simple. :lol: thanks cj
 
I have the fuse block off and ready to put the inline in but I see that on the right side (from the back) has a wire to each terminal except the first one. but on the other side ony two wires the hot (red) attached to the first and second on the left side with a plate. and the other wire is connected to the last connector on a plate suppling 3 connectors. when I cut this to put in the inline how does the other connectors get their power? I do not want to screw up this box as I do not have another one. thanks cj
 
Attach a wire to the Orange? (side that has the fuses connected to battery thru the ign switch) run to the fuse & then to the other wire
 
Well I got that and now I see something that does not look right. the fuse box has a plug on it and two red wires each with a bullet ends on them. they were connected to each other. the wire from the battery is connected to the ignition. Then the plug is pluged in. the plug is the only thing that looks right. Could someone take a picture of how yours is hooked up (I am a visual person more than understanding instructions)? I would really appreciate it.

Also I put my headlight is on a toggle which fixed that problem. and put my horn on one as it would not work off the button. I got the turn signals to work but after assembling this all back together everything works except the turn signals. I am exhausted and wasted a good riding day.

can they be put on a toggle switch or something? thanks cj
 
well never mind about the signals they work now. the battery was a bit low from testing thing and retesting. As soon as it had been on the battery tender for about 1/2 hours and they work. But other than what I mentioned above about the fuse box connection there is another strange thing. After putting in the in-line (i spliced the orange wire with one of those tap in type connectors then ran my in-line in it also. then the other end of the inline to the other wire from the other side of the fuse connector that was bad. I was the one for the headlight and taillight and such). I removed each fuse to make sure they all did what they were suppose to. and the headlight one work, the signal one worked, the ignition one worked. Now for the scary two (it may have to do with the way the fuse box is connected) when they are removed nothing happens. I had the bike running to make sure it shut down every thing when blown and it did nothing. the main or the power one. What is up with this? What is hooked up wrong? the bike runs fine no more hot fuses but this concerns me. I would buy a new harness for it but people before me have attacked this harness with vengenous and I am afraid I would never get it to run again. Also the recitifier had different connectors on it and i had cut the connector and put bullets on all the ends for the recifier to wire up. So a new harness would be more exhausting than its worth.

Nothing in the harness is hot so I do not know what I did to not have those to fuses do what they are suppose to do. Unless I am expecting it to shut down the system and it doesn't. thanks cj
 
On my bike 82 1100EZ I have 5 fuses.

The bottom one is a spare 10 amp.

Next to bottom is the main fuse 15 amp. It powers the top three 10 amp fuses, like Lights, Ignition, Assy's.

If you have a wiring diagram it would help alot in troubleshooting electrical problems.

Most likely wired like this; Battery main power wire goes to main fuse (15 amp) then up to the key switch on bars then back down to the other fuses (10 amps) then back out to each respected circuit like, lights, horn, ignition, etc.

So if you pull the main fuse it should kill everything and if you pull the other fuse's it should just kill that respected circuit.

Don't know if that helps you but good luck.
 
Thank you that helped alot. It was wired to itself. Not sure how it ran but it did. Now when I remove the main fuse the bike is dead. :lol: before if you removed that fuse the bike kept right on going. hmmmmmmmmm not sure how long thats been like that. oh well thanks to you that part is taken care of. I found (what I hope to have been the problem) not that I put the horn and headlight on a toggle switch. I had fork lights on and the power wire to them came off and was laying right on the frame. It was in with the headlight and tailight and such. I came out from chruch and my bike was dead. Well I got a jump and went home to find that so I just removed them (tired of this whole wiring thing) ](*,) and nothing is hot now. :lol: except me from working in the sun and getting burnt.

so I will take it to work tomorrow and see if we blow any more fuses. hopefully I have fixed it all.

I did even fix the button for the turn signals. I carefully drilled a whole in the button big enough for a cable tie (I am a purchasing agent for a cable contracting company) so cable ties work for almost everything. :D
Anyway I put a cable tie in the whole so it lays flat against the button put it in the whole and wrapped the tie around the unit and it works absolutly great and straight. If I had taken my headlight off the toggle and put it back on the switch that works also. But I did not do that. I figured I had got that working and it aint broke I am not fixing it again. I figure if i am happy with it that way who cares as long as I can ride.. thanks for your help. And will let you know if my ride to work is a no wire/fuse problem free. thanks again cj
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top