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fuse box wiring

  • Thread starter Thread starter geol
  • Start date Start date
G

geol

Guest
Another dumb electrical questioning. I am having issues with my fuse block and check Partzilla.com
and a new one is $60.62! I looked on eBay and most of them looked crappier than mine.

OK... my question is this. The power comes into the block from the red wire on the POS starter
relay lug. Goes into the block and feeds both the 15A and 10A circuit below the 15A. The 10A
below seems to have no function. Just a waste of a fuse as near as I can tell as the out from
the RED wire is through the 15A fuse and there is nothing out of the 10A.

WHY is the 10A fuse located on the bottom of the stock fuse box even there?

fuse_block_wiring.jpg
 
It's a spare for stuff you might like to fit such as heated clothing or audio and so on.
 
Yep, it's an accessory hookup.

If you end up connecting anything to it, be aware that it is 'hot' all the time, not switched with the key.
 
If you chemically clean the fusebox and flow some solder into the crimps you will be good to go in short order. Yours has not melted yet so it is recoverable.
 
posplayr said:
If you chemically clean the fusebox and flow some solder into the crimps you will be good to go in short order. Yours has not melted yet so it is recoverable.
Click to expand...

Wellllllll this has turned out to be quite a saga. I had a bunch of suitable fuse boxes and must have used my last. Nearest auto parts store is about 25 miles away and being a nice day, I hopped on my CB1100 and rode to the NAPA store and nada at NAPA. So I stopped that the service station, filled up the tank and turned the key and click, click, click nada... Guy gave me a jump and I went to the only bike shop in town and they only had one battery with the right polition anode and length and width. It is about 3 inches taller than the little stubby that was in there so I lost my underseat tool tray. Went to CarQuest auto and they had a fuse box (uses old style glass tubes) that I can modify to work. Geesh, the joy of living in the middle of nowhere! Anyway, I am not sure how you chemically clean the fusebox but I can tin the crimps... guess some contact cleaner will have to do. If it doesn't work, plan B... the CarQuest fuse block.
 
http://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...-Preparing-Electrical-Connenctions&highlight=

Some people think that clean electrical stuff with sand paper and brushes. You have the right idea with flux but if the box is green some naval jelly for 10-15 min will strip it tight down . The flux to flow into the crimp and a spray of a contact cleaner protectant will seal the deal.

i basically buy everything on line. Get exactly what you need and if you go amazon prime shipping is free
 
Last edited:
I thought today would be the last day of working on the thing prior to getting it on the road and registered. I just bought three more spare fuse blocks from cycleterminals.com - they have pretty good stuff and are reasonable. The problem with buying fuse blocks on Amazon or eBay is that you can't be sure how
they have them internally "wired". Most accessory fuse blocks have one master in and the out terminals all feed our voltage from that inlet lug.

I want the kind of terminals that have connectors that can be pressed in and are in strips so you can cut the strips to make the connections you want.
I got three of these and they have covers:
http://www.cycleterminal.com/atc-fuse-box.html

Well off to try and bring back the OEM fuse block to life. Will try and remember to post a followup. Thanks!
 
geol said:
I thought today would be the last day of working on the thing prior to getting it on the road and registered. I just bought three more spare fuse blocks from cycleterminals.com - they have pretty good stuff and are reasonable. The problem with buying fuse blocks on Amazon or eBay is that you can't be sure how
they have them internally "wired". Most accessory fuse blocks have one master in and the out terminals all feed our voltage from that inlet lug.

I want the kind of terminals that have connectors that can be pressed in and are in strips so you can cut the strips to make the connections you want.
I got three of these and they have covers:
http://www.cycleterminal.com/atc-fuse-box.html

Well off to try and bring back the OEM fuse block to life. Will try and remember to post a followup. Thanks!
Click to expand...


Never seen this before. So to be clear the wire is crimped to the terminal that the 1/2 fuse spade plugs into? The box is then just a holder for all the fuses to keep them from shorting.

The strips are held securely by the box so that the wires can pull out as you would literally have to pull the wire out of the crimp or rip a small locating post that hols teh stip directly?
 
The terminals fit into the box and have metal ears that keep them from being pulled out unless you push in an ear. The terminals are ALL connected initially and you cut the contact strip between them. On the in side of the terminal is the spade lug you press a female spade lug connector onto.
 
geol said:
The terminals fit into the box and have metal ears that keep them from being pulled out unless you push in an ear. The terminals are ALL connected initially and you cut the contact strip between them. On the in side of the terminal is the spade lug you press a female spade lug connector onto.
Click to expand...

You answer is not very clear as you are using Terminal to describe the box other wise know as Suzuki Type ATC Fuse Box


But I think I got it. The fuse box has a molded in female clip for fuse and male spade to attached a female wire terminal. The wire terminals shown are the external crimp on female terminals.
 

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