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Gas getting into the oil - '82 GS1100E

  • Thread starter Thread starter nicolettijd
  • Start date Start date
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nicolettijd

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I have an '82 GS1100E I just picked up and started riding. Just yesterday I got her inspected. It's my first motorcycle - very clean and pretty to look at - especially for her age, so I was naturally very excited to ride around and get a little speed. Also, as a disclaimer, I don't want to pretend like I'm an expert at being a motorcycle mechanic. I'm a total newbie to being a motorcycle mechanic.

When I got the bike I changed the oil, and I noticed gas with the oil and more fluid draining than should from this motorcycle (~5 liters; I was expecting 3.4 or so). Then I realized that I was leaving the fuel petcock on "PRI" which I assumed was "OFF" because it was faded and the cycle I learned on had On, Off, and RES. This one has ON, RES, and PRI. It's okay now, I learned not to leave it on PRI.

But I changed the oil and thought that if it were leaking from my leaving the PRI switch on then I'd see the level stay constant - otherwise I'd see it rise if it were leaking from something else.

For a few days the oil level stayed constant, but I only took the bike around town. After driving it into work today the level is back up. I should mention that today I drove the engine at higher RPMs than I had previously (5k+)

At the end of the ride today the oil level was noticeably higher and darker. It seems to me from the evidence stated above that something is allowing oil to leak into the crankcase at higher RPMs. That or it was just a matter of time before I noticed a difference.


Anyway, I'm looking for resources for diagnosing the problem. Having gasoline in your oil seems serious to me, but maybe it's a simple fix you guys have heard of? I'm thinking some gasket in the engine perhaps? Maybe valves are worn? Any help is much appreciated.
 
Take the hose off the carbs and see if the petcock is flowing in the on and reserve position. Vacuum actuated petcocks should only flow if the engine is running or set on prime.

Oh yeah, welcome to GSR.
 
Dont waste money on rebuild kits..they are maybe 30% effective..if that. Monies wasted on kits should go toward a new OEM petcock.
 
common wisdom and experience of the collective usually attributes that to a bad petcock.

Personally I would spend $50.00 or so on a new petcock and leave the problem behind you, plus get a new petcock that will keep you worry free for years/decades.

sean
 
In my 7+ years here I can not recall anybody ever crowing about a wonderful petcock rebuild kit.
 
Gas can't get into the oil while riding the bike. When the oil gets hot it expands, thus you need to check the oil when the engine is cold. Also, you need to have the bike on the center stand with the bike parked on level ground in order to check the oil properly.
 
I'm 0-3 on rebuilds. I just use a lawn mower style inline fuel tap. ($8 at ACE) Have you seen the price for a new petcock for a '78 1000, when you can find one? BikeBandit has it listed at $299.31, it must be made of gold. '81 1000G, $93.42. Except for the output locations, they are identical.
 
Nessism said:
Gas can't get into the oil while riding the bike. When the oil gets hot it expands, thus you need to check the oil when the engine is cold. Also, you need to have the bike on the center stand with the bike parked on level ground in order to check the oil properly.
Click to expand...
That may only apply to some bikes, you may get a false reading. The center stand tilts the bike forward or back and isn't level, and most bikes don't have center stands anymore. Only bikes like my FZ6 still come with them and that manual calls for the bike to be on it's wheels and upright.

BTW, none of my 1100s have a center stand.
 
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nicolettijd said:
I have an '82 GS1100E .
Click to expand...

Welcome to the EZBoyez club and the GSRs !! If I have ever left the petcock on PRI and got gas in the oil I just drain it and refill. Im getting oil for just over a buck a qt. Nothing else to add except keep the oil level between the lines and ride..........

Oh.....Red or Silver ? Picture ?
 
Rick..get a 77 / 78 750 petcock. Same EXACT petcock except the vac and fuel nipples face differently than the 78 1000 ones...and 1/3 the price as a 78 1000 petcock. Lines hook up without any problems and youre rolling again.
 
chuck hahn said:
Rick..get a 77 / 78 750 petcock. Same EXACT petcock except the vac and fuel nipples face differently than the 78 1000 ones...and 1/3 the price as a 78 1000 petcock. Lines hook up without any problems and youre rolling again.
Click to expand...
Eric told me about that. When I take Suzy off the road for her second and this time full resto, I may get one. Besides my inline valve doubles as a theft device when I tuck in in out of site. You wont get a half mile before it start to starve. Sometime I forget to open it when I'm in a hurry.:rolleyes:
 
Photos

Photos

Thanks for the huge response! And so fast. I also opted to change the oil before running it further.

Because it was requested here's a set of photos of the bike.
20150726_072347.jpg
 
20150726_080827.jpg She's in pretty good condition - like someone really tried to care for her carefully. Many parts are brand new, and nothing looks to be worn out.
 
20150726_080838.jpg Isn't that an aftermarket exhaust? I'm not certain if the previous owner re-balanced the carbs when this was installed.
 
20150726_084734.jpgAnd I just noticed this little gem - 3 pipes with white soot and one with black carbon buildup. Looks like I need to check the plugs and electrical system. I *hope* it's not a carburetor thing.
 
I always include a carb rebuild as part of the standard maintenance when purchasing a new to me bike. Valve adjustment is first then a carb rebuild and sync. Really not worth chasing your tail until you done what's probably needed to be done for the last 30 years.

Go here and you'll find a ton of information. The carb rebuild tutorial is here. Here's the valve adjustment procedure for your bike.
 
I agree..act like nothing was ever done. Do all the maintenance, rebuild the carbs with the full dipping and new orings, check petcock for leakage, new oil and filter etc etc.

This will make finding any carb fuel to air ratio problems much much easier when yiou get to tuning it.
 
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So again, just to be clear, gas can not enter the oil while the engine is running. Maybe I'm not understand the situation correctly about the high oil level, but any extra gas that is flowing toward the carbs must pass through the cylinder and past the rings before it can get into the oil, and this can not happen while combustion is occurring.

Regarding checking the oil level, the bike must be upright and on straight/flat ground before you can do this. Suzuki specifies a cold engine and with the bike on the centerstand. Since the centerstand has been removed from this bike good luck. You are almost sure to get measurement error trying to properly gauge the oil level. And remember, oil expands when hot, so hot oil level is always higher than cold oil level.
 
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