• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Gas tank weld - small pin hole

Andrew Vanis

Andrew Vanis

Forum Mentor
Past Site Supporter
I have this pin hole. thinking of spot welding it. any considerations other than flush the gas out beforehand (that step was already done, liquid leaking here is evapo-rust not gasoline)

IMAG0232_zps87dad53a.jpg


history of this rust pinhole here - http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1898632&postcount=15
 
When I have poked around pinholes like these, there have usually been 10 - 20 other holes just waiting to open up.
 
This was a hole about 1/8 wide and 1 inch long. I broke off the rusted edges and got to solid metal. Then I started spot welding around the edges goingb spot next to spot till I had circled my way to the center.

This built up a good base to lay a little silver solder onto. Next I ground it down and smoothed with a MILL SMOOTH file.

Once satisfied with the shape and it being a good base, I redid the silver solder to be sure all pin holes were filled. Then as a filler to sand on and get the corner reconstructed, I use some JB weld.

Once all that was done, the tamk liner went in and it was shipped to Larry for paint.. Here is the repair and them painted tank


My repair job...everything you see in that darkest area on the lower seam and back corner is the HOLE(S) that I repaired. So yes it can be done with some skill and patience.




The painted tank..totally unnoticble repair....click on picture to view larger images.



 
Last edited:
HINT....Do a few spots side by side and let the tank cool. This keeps the thin metal from getting too hot from rushing the job and melting away.

Zap..wait a seoncd..zap..wait a second..zap..then let it cool a few minutes. The restart the process and ever so slowly work your way around the hole till you've built up some thicker spot welds. Now you can start to do it a little faster..but still stop and allow it to cool down to prevent melt offs.

Do some more and so on.
 
chuck hahn said:
HINT....Do a few spots side by side and let the tank cool. This keeps the thin metal from getting too hot from rushing the job and melting away.
Click to expand...

should have double checked this thread before plugging in the welder. I now have a dime sized hole :(
 
Last edited:
OK...so shake out the slag that has fallen in and start around the edges again..this time a few quick zaps. By quick in mean hit the trigger and just make it spark a dot on. Let it cool a second and do another right next to the first. Youll get your own "feel" for how quick and how long to wait between zaps real quick.

'
That or take it to a shop and have them braze in a patch to cover it. Looks like its on the bottom anyway and wont be seen. Be sure to tell them the metal is only about 20/1000ths thick.
 
For a dime sized hole I'd make a patch. Don't try to fill something that big with weld alone.
 
chuck hahn said:
braze in a patch to cover it...... the metal is only about 20/1000ths thick.
Click to expand...

I can braze (i think:rolleyes:) it I go that direction, anything to keep in mind other than clean, flux, and rod?

no wonder it just evaporated even on the lowest setting.
 
Do some testing on where the rod melts as to the flame..then use that setting. A torch can just as easily pop a hole as the welder can. If your in doubt, have a shop braze a patch over it for you.
 
IF the metal is thick enough to support tapering the edge of the hole, then that's what I would do. Enlarge the hole and bevel its edge in order to fit an easily handled equally beveled patch. Use a die grinder or a rat tail file the bevel the hole and bevel the edge of the patch by filing it's edge as needed to best fit the hole, then braze the patch in place.

Repairing the burn through by this method will allow for the minimum amount of filler necessary to hide the repair. Plus it's considered better workmanship than just slapping a patch over the rusted area, bashing it down and hitting it with a coat of filler.

http://thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1666489&postcount=535

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d44/rustybronco/PICT3523.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top