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Gear Oils

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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My manual specifies a SAE 90 with a GPL-5 rating for the seconday and final drives of my shaftie. Do i need to find this at a specialty store... my local auto parts place only had GL-5.

What make the "P" so special.
 
I don't know about the "P" I have an 83 GS1100GK and the factory manuel for it just say to use SAE #90 hypoid gear oil that is rated GL under API classification system. That is what I've used with no problems at all.
 
oil

oil

Not sure since its been a few years since my hot rod days but the P may stand for posa-traction, or limited slip type diffs, it should be available at most auto parts stores, and it is a different oil due to the additves
 
at the auto store they didn't even have any 90 they had 85w - 90 and 80w - 90 ... so i just walked away. I'm gonna hit a bike shop in the morning and see if they have more options. But if i can get away with the other ratings i'll go for it.
 
For heaven's sake, guys, we have cheap bikes, so let's treat them as such. The GS is by nature a highly adaptable bike, not fussy at all with mundane items such as gear lube.

I'm in my 19th riding season riding GS shafties -- four 850's and now my 1100GK -- for 210,000 miles plus. The cheapest 80W90 gear lube found at Walmart or such discount place is good enough. I replace the gear lube in both middle gear and rear end once a year.

Just get the cheap lube, drain the old stuff out while it's still warm after a ride, and put in the required amount. Then forget about it and enjoy the riding.

Cheap Nick
 
Don't believe Nick! You need "Jim's Genuwine Motorsickle Gear Lube" 39.95 a pint plus shipping, handling and lunch. Order your's today. "Your bike knows the difference. Now that you know the truth you'll never sleep soundly till you change to Jim's Genuwine!" And say why not give Jim's Genuwine for Christmas presents this year! 8O
 
haha you guys must be those "bikers' i read about in the tabloids... with all yer fancy talk and iron butts.

I was just going by what the manual said and wanted to make sure i could divert from the recomended rating... hence asking one of you "old' guys... ahaha... the last bite is MINE!!!!!

kidding aside thanks... thats what i wanted to know. now put some extra padding on your seat and get a move on.
 
I went to synthetic gear oil in my Valkyrie final drive...much quiter and smoother. $8.00 a quart, 3 changes to a bottle...worth the exra dollar or two per change. I change it yearly. It works for me.
 
About ten years ago I went with synthetic gear oil, same grade. Couldn't tell the difference on my 850. So, I stopped spending silly money and went back to dino.

Just my personal experience. Someone else's bike may run better with synthetic gear lube; mine ran no better and no worse.

Cheap Nick
 
Went to synthetic oil in my Valkyrie, 15/50 mobil 1. Water temp went down 20 degrees as did the oil temp.. these temps were lower because of one thing only...reduced friction. dino CHEAP oil increases oil temps(wear) You may not notice...but your engine and drive train (final drive does) just ask it (temps). There is a big reason why temps go up with dino oils/lubes.
 
Glad it works for you in your Valkyrie. I'll save my money and go for the cheap stuff, which works the same. To each his own.
 
So i dump the wretched black gear oil out today... I've never smell oil like this.. i don't know when it was last changed.

So i went with nicks suggestion. i bought some 80W-90.... i run the bike and then top off the gear oil after the initial change.

i come back an hour later and there is a pool of clean gear oil under my bike. i haven't had a leak before. I grab a flash lite and follow it to the source ... an open hole at the bottom of the gear box...

anyone know if this is normal. is is cause i opens the oil fill after the bike ran and then added more oil?

anyone anyone?
 
Nick...that is just the point...it (dino oils) doesnt work the same. There is more friction(heat) which means more wear. Save that dollar...as you say...to each his own.
 
The synthetic/ conventional thing is just how often you change it, I don't like to change gear oil (it does smell disgusting, especially with additives) so I used some Mobil 1 gear oil left over from the car and haven't changed it in 3 years. I know that someone will say this means my bike will explode but its been clean when I checked it, and everything breaks on my POS bike anyway. On my car and bike I use cheap dino in the engine and change it often.
 
shotguntim said:
I grab a flash lite and follow it to the source ... an open hole at the bottom of the gear box...
Click to expand...

Did you put the drain plug back in??????????????
 
oily

oily

You ask about oil and you get a million answers, are bikes are very demanding as far as the engine oil goes, the temps and demands far exceed what water cooled engine requirements are, there for a good oil is a must, the better the anti foaming, anti rust agents and additives that help suspend particules and acids, as well as ones that increase shear strengh which are a must in gear oil, all add to the cost of the basic oil product witch would be crap to our bikes with out them, yes some are way over priced, but the cheap no name products are usally supplied by the same refiner, but lack additves that enhance the oils property, hence the cheap price, you can buy good oil at the discount places, and save but go by the ratings on the oil its self, and not price, as far as being cheap bikes to fix, well some people have never done a crank up repair so don't really know those costs, and for those throwing out mileage figures try 25 bikes and 43 years of racing and riding well over a million miles, my 65 BSA witch I have had 30+ years lasts much longer between rebuilds with the newer oils than what was available 30 years ago, flame war HeHeHe :-#
 
Wingnut said:
Did you put the drain plug back in??????????????
Click to expand...

Yeah yeah, this hole is to the left about an inch and three or four inches back from the dreain hole.

It hasn't leaked since. i think it had to do with a pressure change after i topped off the oil.
 
Possibly so, but I think what he was referring to was the side-mounted inspection (read: remove-so-you-don't-overfill-the-Gearbox screw) screw that is to be removed when refilling the gearbox. If you forgot to replace that after filling it up, it will blow all over the place when running!!
 
My experince with normal vs synthetic diff oil is in my car, not a bike, but here goes.

I have a V8, which tests the diff a bit. It developed a clunk, quite bad when reversing..very mechanical. I suspect the diff oil was not changed as often as it should have been by the previous owner(s).

Good quality normal oil made no difference. Finally I used a more expensive synthetic oil..problem solved! It does not clunk and carry on when it gets hot, very noticeably so. It is not as good as new, has a little play in it, but at 320,000kms what do you expect.

In normal use I would not expect to feel any difference between synthetic and normal diff oil. If you change the normal stuff when you should or before, you will probably have no issues. But the syntheic does seem to be better.

Eveyone is right in a fashion.
 
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