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Get ready to shake your head at me...

  • Thread starter Thread starter bottobot
  • Start date Start date
Nessism said:
I agree. Don't think I would even bother to clean it before hand. Direct the blast pressure down the little cam bearing feed holes, down the outside stud passages (with the head flat against something so the water will be forced though the galley), and everywhere else.

I'd bring some WD-40 along too so you can spray down the valve guides and valve seats so they don't flash rust.
Click to expand...

Good call on the WD-40. I'll make sure I do that on the cylinder bores too.
 
Run it through your dish washer on the "pots and pans" cycle. Heads and cam covers are bottom drawer safe.
 
So the stage I am at now is that I have degreased and cleaned this puppy to where I can no longer find even a granule of sand. I've spent probably close to 9 solid hours of degreasing and cleaning with a variety of solvents and pressure washing and compressed air blasting. Thanks for all the kind words of encouragement. With your help I climbed out of this whole I dug.

Tomorrow I will soda blast the heads. While I am waiting for valve guides and high quality valve seals to arrive. Then I have a date with Alec's Automotive to plane the heads to true, do the guides, lap the valve seats.

Put it back together and then we are laughing!
 
How do you know the head needs guides? Did you measure the valve to guide clearance using the wobble test, and if so, what did you measure? New guides mandates machining the seats, so if you do that you should also cut the valves and skim the stem to assure you don't run out of shim sizes.
 
Nessism said:
How do you know the head needs guides? Did you measure the valve to guide clearance using the wobble test, and if so, what did you measure? New guides mandates machining the seats, so if you do that you should also cut the valves and skim the stem to assure you don't run out of shim sizes.
Click to expand...

We did a wobble test and they wobbled like crazy. I hadn't considered skimming the stems, but the valves getting cut and the seats getting lapped are all on the order. You mean grinding down the top of the valve stem a little right? How much would you recommend?
 
bottobot said:
We did a wobble test and they wobbled like crazy. I hadn't considered skimming the stems, but the valves getting cut and the seats getting lapped are all on the order. You mean grinding down the top of the valve stem a little right? How much would you recommend?
Click to expand...

Yes, face the valve stem to shorten the valve. How far you go depends on how deep the seats/valves get cut and what the current shim size is. For example, if your bike has 2.50 shims and you face the valves and machine new seats after replacing the guides (the seats must be cut if you replace the guides, lapping is no good) then you could easily be down to 2.40 afterwards, which doesn't leave you a whole lot of adjustment room for the future. In that instance I'd machine at least .005" off the valves, maybe more. Talk to your machinists and see what they say.

Oh, and be sure to measure the wobble using a good dial indicator. The only way to know for sure what the clear is is to measure.
 
Nessism said:
Yes, face the valve stem to shorten the valve. How far you go depends on how deep the seats/valves get cut and what the current shim size is. For example, if your bike has 2.50 shims and you face the valves and machine new seats after replacing the guides (the seats must be cut if you replace the guides, lapping is no good) then you could easily be down to 2.40 afterwards, which doesn't leave you a whole lot of adjustment room for the future. In that instance I'd machine at least .005" off the valves, maybe more. Talk to your machinists and see what they say.

Oh, and be sure to measure the wobble using a good dial indicator. The only way to know for sure what the clear is is to measure.
Click to expand...

Whats the difference between cutting the seats and lapping the seats? I'm only familiar with lapping.
 
Lapping the seats with fine paste will ensure an even surface around the seat. However, when guides are replaced, the centreline of the new guide in relation to the old existing seat can change. Then a special cutter is used to remove more material than lapping will, to ensure a true centreline again.
 
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