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Getting closer - electrical problem

  • Thread starter Thread starter zodeo
  • Start date Start date
Z

zodeo

Guest
Thanks everyone on the help with this problem, as usual you guys have come through.
I have gotten closer to fixing this problem with the bike or at least I have narrowed it down.
Before: Bike was dead. no juice getting from the battery(good). Turn the key and nothing.No lights no horn nothing.
Cleaned all the connections,changed all the fuses gone through the whole thing but there is still a problem.
Now when I turn the key to the on position I get lights on the gages(gear and high beam indicator) and I get power to the lights and horn.
Problem: when I turn the key all the way to run (last position) it goes dead again, not even the lights work.
Any ideas on what to do now? I am pretty good with mechanics but the whole electrical thing is like vodoo to me.
I have a Multimeter but I am not going to pretend that I know how to use it.
As always "THANK YOU EVERYONE" !!! couldn't do it without ya!
Z
 
Your problem seems to be pointing to a bad ignition switch.
In order to know for sure, bypass the ignition switch altogether and see if your starter button will then crank the engine. Of course, you will need to thoroughly understand the wires going into and coming out of the ignition switch in order to do this. You'll need a wiring diagram - time to become savvy with eletrical circuits!
 
Run position

Run position

I looked at another thread to see that you have a 79 550. I have a 78 750E, on my ignition switch I don't have a separate "on" and "run" position. Make sure you are not turning the key to the Park position which will lock the triple tree and leave the brake light on. However if the tree isn't turned enough it will kill everything and not allow you to remove the key. When you get it to park, the key can again be removed as in "off" and "lock."
 
Sorry, The bike is a 79 550e. I guess that info would be helpful.

The ignition has 4 positions.
from left to right

1st: forks locked
2nd: general off position, you can pull the keys out
3rd: lights come on, gear position, high beam,
4rth:push button, bike starts. this is the position that I am having problems with.
 
zodeo said:
Sorry, The bike is a 79 550e. I guess that info would be helpful.

The ignition has 4 positions.
from left to right

1st: forks locked
2nd: general off position, you can pull the keys out
3rd: lights come on, gear position, high beam,
4rth:push button, bike starts. this is the position that I am having problems with.
Click to expand...

Probably a change from 79 to 83, but with mine position number 3 is where it starts. Position 4 is a lock position with parking lights only.
 
fgh said:
zodeo said:
Sorry, The bike is a 79 550e. I guess that info would be helpful.

The ignition has 4 positions.
from left to right

1st: forks locked
2nd: general off position, you can pull the keys out
3rd: lights come on, gear position, high beam,
4rth:push button, bike starts. this is the position that I am having problems with.
Click to expand...
Probably a change from 79 to 83, but with mine position number 3 is where it starts. Position 4 is a lock position with parking lights only.
Click to expand...

That is what I was trying to say with my 78 750 E Once the lights on the dash go back off, it is heading to the Park position to lock the handlebars and keep the tail light on as a parking light. I can't say for sure if the starter will try to turn if I go beyond the "On" position, as I have never tried to start it there, just know that if I go beyond, I have to turn the handlebars for them to lock before I can remove the key.
 
Just for laughs: When the key is in that 3rd position (when all the lights come on), try push starting the bike, or jumping the starter solenoid (see other posts) - it may just be a bad starter button connection - VERY common.
On EVERY bike I've owned, the position that makes all the lights come on IS the "run" position.
 
Do I understand what you're saying? The bike will not crank and/or start in position 3? The bike will crank and start in position 4?
 
zodeo said:
The ignition has 4 positions.
from left to right

1st: forks locked
2nd: general off position, you can pull the keys out
3rd: lights come on, gear position, high beam,
4rth:push button, bike starts. this is the position that I am having problems with.
Click to expand...

1st position Lock: Key hard turned counter clockwise to lock the forks
2nd position Off: key almost straight along the bike frame, slight left
3rd Position On/Run: Key almost straight along the bike frame slight turned a little right
4th Position Park: Key turned hard clockwise (This setting locks the fork, leaving the tail light on

Key can be removed in all but the 3rd position

fgh said:
Do I understand what you're saying? The bike will not crank and/or start in position 3? The bike will crank and start in position 4?
Click to expand...

No what we are saying is that when the lights go on it is in position 3 from the listing above is when starter button should be pushed to try and start it. Everything from almost in line with the bike to hard clockwise on the key is dead space till it locks the fork in position 4 with the tail light on.
 
Last edited:
Sorry about the lag in response. 15 hour days of work. haven't had a chance to get near the bike in two days. I might be crazy but I do Know that the far left position(10 oclock) is the lock position. 11 oclock is the off position, 12 oclock lights come on.... and 1 oclock was run? Man it has been months since I have even had a chance to turn the key on this thing I could be way off.
I do also know that even in the 3rd position(12 oclock) with the gauge lights on and the headlight working I still get nothing.:cry:
 
I don't remember being able to lock the forks in any other position but 1.
But I am starting to second guess myself.... I will check it tonight.
thank you all!!!
 
I think I figured it out!!!!
I took apart the starter button, the ignition and the switches, cleaned everything.
Tightened up the ignition switch!!! Turned it to the 3rd position (as suggested by you guys) and hit the button..... started right up.
I believe that the switch was so loose that it was just spinning with the key.
I haven't had the bike long enough to even notice.
Well I have crossed that bridge (knock on wood) Know I can attempt to tune the carbs put the tank on and GO FOR A RIDE.
Thank you all.
sorry about any type-o's. I am real tired.
Z
 
Glad you were able to get the bike to turn over. Good luck with syncing the carbs. That is one job I have not tried as of yet.
 
My trick to syncing is remove the locknut and put blue loctite on the screws instead. Keeps 'em from vibrating without the hassle. Just a tip. ;-)
 
I was going to ask if anyone had any tips for syncing with out any special tools. I can't dish out another penny until I know this things gonna run for a little while.
I was meticulous at recording the turns of the screws when I took the carbs apart, so I figure I could get close enough for now. when I felt the exhaust coming from the pipes last night on side seem to have a "choppy" feel to it.
any ideas?
 
OK, now that you've got past your initial problem you need to go through the full "check-list" of verifications listed on this forum multiple times (see my replies on this post for example: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=111791).
The particular symptom you describe can have multiple causes.
I'll just stress here that without a compression check and valve adjustment you'll be shooting in the dark for weeks.
 
Well you should do a "bench synch" while you have the carbs off, that means getting the throttle openings matched. Do a search for various techniques.

Once you've got them on the bike your next step is a vacuum sync. This may indeed help with your "choppy" exhaust. Also mixture screws and valves, of course.
 
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