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Getting her back in shape... 8-[

  • Thread starter Thread starter topher1556
  • Start date Start date
T

topher1556

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I'd like to know from the members here what you believe is recommended for the most economical (meaning best mpg) performance. I'm currently going thru my recent purchase ('80 GS1100E) to get her in tip top running shape. I don't want to spend money if possible, this bikes primary goal is to be a daily commuter.

I have so far changed the oil/filter and regapped the plugs (with new iridium ngk's waiting to be installed). I have purchased an electrosport r/r to install (before anything hapens to the 26 year old factory one)...I just need to solder it in place :-| .

Are there any other recommendations that I should perform that require little investment (I'm working with the last of my budget...$200 left)? I'm planning on doing valve clearances soon, as I do not know when it was last done, and while doing that I plan on cleaning/syncing (bench and vacuum) the carbs.

Oh, the previous owner removed the portion of the airbox that I believe normally sits under the seat. Now, there is just a generic yellow foam filter mounted to the intake port that feeds the "chromed" airbox that the four carbs feed from. Could this mod be causing me problems? I have some issues, but want to do as much regular maintenance before attacking the problems (I'm trying to eliminate as many simple things as possible, before moving on to the complex issues).

Thanks, and I'll repeat other numerous members..."This is a GREAT resource and a great site!!".
 
Sounds like youve pretty much got it down. Keep the stock airbox, and make sure the filter is clean, running stock exhaust and jetting does wonders too. One of the best (and easiest) things to do is keep track of your tire pressure. Underinflated tires are much, much harder to turn.
 
Filter/carb adjustment

Filter/carb adjustment

I would suspect the air filter could give you fits, normally any changes in the airbox and or filter from stock can result in signifigant problems if not checked and corrected. If the air box has been removed totally and no changes in the jets in the carbs will leave you with a very lean mixture. When the individual filters get installed on the carbs the carbs need rejetting to compensate for the additional air compared to the airbox.
My understanding is that the bikes are designed with the airbox and shouldn't be removed, however that is a matter of opinion. My first concern is the mixture of the carbs, any change in that area will create problems. Even installing a K&N filter in the original airbox causes changes due to the difference in filters from the stock filter, so in my opinion I would look to the carbs first because if that isn't tuned properly everything else can wait, the carbs can't. At least invest in a balancer and check them right off the bat, I got mine from Z1 enterprises cheaper then anywhere else, no need investing in a top of the line, they all do the same thing some are more sturdy then others but the principal is the same.
Good Luck Bill
 
Well, I'd actually like to go back to the factory filter and housing, but I don't know where to get one. I have most of the airbox, but the housing that goes around the filter element is gone (I can see directly to my battery). In it's place is a yellow foam filter with a spring in it to support the foam shape. I will definately be investing in a balancer. Is Z1 pretty much the place to get it? I think he's a member here too, right?
 
So, what mpg could I expect by doing a full and complete tune up? I ride quite conservatively, and ride mostly flat highway. Currently only getting 39-42 mpg (and that's with a cold #3 cyl at idle).

And what else should I look for to preventatively fix (already doing the r/r)?
 
And would going to k&n pods with a better exhaust (v&h 4 to 1) and rejetting help mpgs? I know the bigger jets flow more fuel, but wouldn't an engine that makes more power by breathing better also make better mpg's if driven conservatively?
 
That mileage is about right. I have an 850 and get hi-thirties city and mid-forties hiway. The other answer is no - your mileage would likely drop with aftermarket filters/pipes since they almost always require bigger jets and higher needle settings (read more gas).
 
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Thanks flyingace. I ride almost exclusively highway, and just figured 39 to 42mpg was a little low.
 
I have a pair of 1100E's and yes, the mileage you're getting is decent. My 81 gets an average of 40mpgs, and the 83 gets maybe 45 if I'm not hammering it.
 
topher1556 said:
And would going to k&n pods with a better exhaust (v&h 4 to 1) and rejetting help mpgs? I know the bigger jets flow more fuel, but wouldn't an engine that makes more power by breathing better also make better mpg's if driven conservatively?
Click to expand...

Heck no, especially if you are mostly highway riding. When I had the pods and pipe on my 81, I would get maybe 35 around town and about 18-24 on the highway. Higher rpms are a killer on the highway when you have a high flow intake/output.
 
Thanks jethro. I'll be stayin stock then.

I have a second set of carbs on the way, so I can rebuild them and install and no have the bike be down long. Where is the best place to get a carb gasket kit? And should I also order the o ring kit from Robert Barr to replace all o rings?
 
topher1556 said:
Thanks jethro. I'll be stayin stock then.

I have a second set of carbs on the way, so I can rebuild them and install and no have the bike be down long. Where is the best place to get a carb gasket kit? And should I also order the o ring kit from Robert Barr to replace all o rings?
Click to expand...

Definately get the o-ring kit. Check ebay for the gaskets, or just get them from the dealership.
 
renobruce said:
Definately get the o-ring kit. Check ebay for the gaskets, or just get them from the dealership.
Click to expand...

But what gaskets will I need...just bowl gaskets? Any others? I just want to try and get all necessary parts ready, and then spend the time one weekend detailing the inside of the carb.

And thank you!
 
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