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Going ahead with engine rebuild

  • Thread starter Thread starter TheNewGuy
  • Start date Start date
On mine, I was able to get one corner to pry up just a bit then I put a wooden shim into the opening. Went to the opposite side and did the same thing. Once both sides had a tapered shim under it, I just lightly tapped the thicker end of the shim to drive it under the jugs. Once the seal is broken you can then lift it off the crankcase.
Good luck.


Tried the wooden shims with no luck they just cracked in half. All the corners are really tight. No room for a shim. Perhapse a small scraper? I know youre not supposed to use metal to pry with but out of ideas.
 
I would try heating the gasket area with a propane torch to see if I could break the bond between the crankcase and jugs.
 
I would try heating the gasket area with a propane torch to see if I could break the bond between the crankcase and jugs.

Going to try the torch tomorrow. I'll keep you posted.

Thanks
 
Lay a few layers of old towel on the floor. Use a ratchet strap slung over a rafter and some rope wrapped around the jugs to lift it about an inch off the floor. Slide the padding under and use a 2X2 to knock the pistons down. Raise it some more and repeat till the jugs pop off.
 
Usually you can use a piece of wood and wack it with a sledge to knock the cylinder loose. Get a piece of wood large enough to bridge at least two of the vertical bridge ribs that hold the horizontal fins together. That way you spread the load out when applying force.
 
Thank you that worked. Time to start cleaning. Unfortunatly 90% of the base gasket stuck to the block and not the jugs. Anyone have any secrets for cleaning/decarboning? I was thinking some Simple green?
 
I used simple green pro (it's purple) and a brass wire brush on my Dremel. It took forever and there was some carbon build up on the piston tops I couldn't get off even with the Gumout product. FYI, you should clean as much as possible before removing the cylinders to minimize how much crap could fall into the crankcase.
 
Update:

Got the oem rings yesterday. Oem gaskets will be here tomorrow. The machine shop should have the jugs and head back to me this week. Will post when I have everything I need. Thanks everyone
 
Ok. I need help. Got the jugs on but now yhe engine wont turn over by hand feels jammed. Did the chain roll onto itself? How do I fix this?
 
You might want to try holding up the chain with your hand to make sure it's not bunched up on the crank sprocket. You may have to rock the engine both directions to be sure the chain is free.

When you inserted the pistons/rings into the cylinders were you careful to make sure no rings got pinched?
 
You might want to try holding up the chain with your hand to make sure it's not bunched up on the crank sprocket. You may have to rock the engine both directions to be sure the chain is free.

When you inserted the pistons/rings into the cylinders were you careful to make sure no rings got pinched?

Took the jugs back off. Ughhhh. One of the rings got bent. Got another set ordered. Frustrating. I took today off work to put it back together. Can someone maybe explain to me the shim trick again. I tried doing it with the engine at tdc. Was very difficult with the pistons moving.
Thank You
 
Took the jugs back off. Ughhhh. One of the rings got bent. Got another set ordered. Frustrating. I took today off work to put it back together. Can someone maybe explain to me the shim trick again. I tried doing it with the engine at tdc. Was very difficult with the pistons moving.
Thank You

Use a small block of wood to hold #2 and #3 pistons up at TDC. With hose clamps holding the rings compressed, you can now ease the cylinder down. After the jugs have cleared the rings you can remove the wood and then turn the crank to get #1 and #4 up to the bottom of the jugs. It seems easy after you have done it.

Also, are you using the rectangular o-ring under the head gasket? I think I saw a mention that it is not necessary if you are using a MLS head gasket.
 
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