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Got a carb syncing tool. This is what it told me.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
Please stop and put down all tools until you read these posts carefully.

First, if you just sprayed carb cleaner through a few holes then the carbs are NOT cleaned. Did you remove the carbs from the bike, completely disassemble each and all of them, the clean them following Nessisms written procedure found at Basscliff’s site? http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

Secondly, you just asked me about the valve adjustment procedure using the zip ties barely a week ago. Did you check those clearances yet and what was each one set to?

Third, have you replaced the orings behind each intake boot? Are you sure each boot is still in good shape?

Once all of the proper steps above have been PROPERLY and FULLY completed and the bike is able to start and run on its own without starter fluid, then and only then should you attempt to synchronize the carbs.

You say you are autistic, then slow down and do this step by step as we have tried to lay out for you in the order we have tried to explain. Otherwise you are not helping yourself.
 
cowboyup3371 said:
Please stop and put down all tools until you read these posts carefully.

First, if you just sprayed carb cleaner through a few holes then the carbs are NOT cleaned. Did you remove the carbs from the bike, completely disassemble each and all of them, the clean them following Nessisms written procedure found at Basscliff’s site? http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

Secondly, you just asked me about the valve adjustment procedure using the zip ties barely a week ago. Did you check those clearances yet and what was each one set to?

Third, have you replaced the orings behind each intake boot? Are you sure each boot is still in good shape?

Once all of the proper steps above have been PROPERLY and FULLY completed and the bike is able to start and run on its own without starter fluid, then and only then should you attempt to synchronize the carbs.

You say you are autistic, then slow down and do this step by step as we have tried to lay out for you in the order we have tried to explain. Otherwise you are not helping yourself.
Click to expand...

1. I took it apart only as far as taking all the moving guts out. I started taking the seats out that the float needles reside in, but one of the screws heads stripped as I tried to remove it, becoming too loose for any of my screwdrivers. I was worried if I put it in the dip, the O-ring inside would be eaten. So I stopped and put everything back together, rather than compromise a seal. That's when I used compressed air and carb cleaner. Please do not assume I haven't read. I enjoy reading.
2. I have not tried that zip tie method yet. I was waiting until I got the carb sync tool so I could do that afterward. I ordered a specific tool on Amazon, but the delivery date kept getting moved back and moved back, so I canceled that. That's when I settled on just using zip ties instead. I was also waiting on a digital caliper I ordered, which came the other day.
3. Yes, even put new boots on it, AND put gasket sealant behind every one. Since one of the boot screws broke and I had been unable to extract it, I drilled through the remains with a self-drilling screw. I tested it with starting fluid. No leaks.

When the carbs are empty of fuel and I attach the fuel tank, sometimes it kicks over quickly. Other times, it doesn't. If it won't be so hard on the o-ring, I'll take the carbs apart again and dip them. It's just that one screw. How long would you recommend leaving them in? But before that, I'll finally crack open the case and take measurements of the valve shims. I found a PDF from BikeCliff's website on that. I also found this website: https://biketech7.blogspot.com/2016/03/suzuki-gs-engines-checking-valve.html
 
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You're ahead of yourself. If it won't idle without the "choke" it is not time to sync the carbs yet.
Click to expand...

Exactly....really, the bike should be running pretty well before the carb synch. Carb synching is "tuning" -not repair or troubleshooting. (Mind you, a single vacuum gauge can help indicate cylinder problems...)
 
Gorminrider said:
Exactly....really, the bike should be running pretty well before the carb synch. Carb synching is "tuning" -not repair or troubleshooting. (Mind you, a single vacuum gauge can help indicate cylinder problems...)
Click to expand...

I had assumed it was the carbs, because that's often the first thing I was told. I had never taken an engine apart, and to me, trying to take any part of the main block off would result in me screwing something up horribly. Only recently did I learn the valves will muck up how an engine runs, and the cleanest carbs in the world couldn't fix that. So that's my next thing. I have some feeler gauges, a telescoping magnet, some screwdrivers, and zip ties.
 
Problem: the head is stuck fast, and I'm unsure how to loosen it. 1589392660168588969148423038620.jpg

EDIT: With a little heat and soft taps with a hammer and screwdriver, I got it loose.
 
Last edited:
hopefully, you've kept track of the bolts, or put them in a cardboard "map". 2 of the bolts are a different length , 45mm. The other 14 are 40mm.

5qI9GUF.jpg
 
ZombiePotatoSalad said:
I set the idle screw to just touching the mixture screw hole, which I heard is a good baseline idle.
Click to expand...
I, along with others, wish there was somebody near you to keep you from killing your bike.

Your idle screw does not go anywhere near the mixture screw hole, let alone to set "a good baseline idle".

The idle adjuster screw is below the carbs, right in the middle. You need to turn that IN (clockwise) to raise the idle speed so that the engine does not die.

Why are you messing with the idle mixture screws when you don't even have the carbs synched yet?

Which screws are you adjusting to sync the carbs?

.
 
Steve said:
I, along with others, wish there was somebody near you to keep you from killing your bike.

Your idle screw does not go anywhere near the mixture screw hole, let alone to set "a good baseline idle".

The idle adjuster screw is below the carbs, right in the middle. You need to turn that IN (clockwise) to raise the idle speed so that the engine does not die.

Why are you messing with the idle mixture screws when you don't even have the carbs synched yet?

Which screws are you adjusting to sync the carbs?

.
Click to expand...

All I can do is follow what I can see and read. Videos, guides, and these forums. Not many videos specifically deal with the 550.
 
Rich82GS750TZ said:
hopefully, you've kept track of the bolts, or put them in a cardboard "map". 2 of the bolts are a different length , 45mm. The other 14 are 40mm.

5qI9GUF.jpg
Click to expand...

I did, I drew a rough outline of the valve cover and poked holes, then placed the screws in their corresponding hole. I'd post a picture, but the website keeps saying "upload failed."
 
You're getting there, though.
Valve clearances need done first, and after the ignition is sorted out too (that's done, isn't it?) and the carbs are cleaned properly - that's the time to set up the gauges.
I have a set of dial gauges like those and they've been rock-solid reliable for 30 years. Every time I bring them out I check them for zero (pop off the front lens - it just pulls up with the shroud that fits over the body of the gauge) and slightly twist the zero-ing screw. Zero-ing gauges used to be a common thing, and still is in many applications. Not everything is digital, even now.
Next step is to get some aquarium air tubing and make up a harness with three aquarium T-pieces, four damping clamps/ valves (again aquarium) and connect all the gauges to a common vacuum port - the one for the vacuum petcock, for example, and start the engine up, leaving it at a steady fast idle - about 2000 rpm. If any of the gauges read more than slightly different from the others, use the zeroing screw to bring that one into sync.
That's the gauges synced with each other.

Now you can dispense with the zero-ing harness and connect them to their individual ports on the carbs and your'e good to go - adjust away as you find.
 
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Here's what I got when I checked the valve shims:

Intake #1
Clearance: ----
Shim: 2.70

Intake #2
Clearance: ----
Shim: 2.70

Intake #3
Clearance: ----
Shim: 2.65

Intake #4
Clearance: ----
Shim: 2.60X

Exhaust #1
Clearance: ----
Shim: 2.55

Exhaust #2
Clearance: ----
Shim: 2.65

Exhaust #3
Clearance: ----
Shim: 2.60X

Exhaust #4
Clearance: ----
Shim: 2.55

As you can see, there is no clearance, even for my thinnest blade.
Should I start by going 5 down? I can swap a couple of them around and see if that helps.
 
ZombiePotatoSalad said:
Here's what I got when I checked the valve shims:

Intake #1
Clearance: ----
Shim: 2.70

Intake #2
Clearance: ----
Shim: 2.70

Intake #3
Clearance: ----
Shim: 2.65

Intake #4
Clearance: ----
Shim: 2.60X

Exhaust #1
Clearance: ----
Shim: 2.55

Exhaust #2
Clearance: ----
Shim: 2.65

Exhaust #3
Clearance: ----
Shim: 2.60X

Exhaust #4
Clearance: ----
Shim: 2.55

As you can see, there is no clearance, even for my thinnest blade.
Should I start by going 5 down? I can swap a couple of them around and see if that helps.
Click to expand...

It's a bit odd to have all of them so tight. Maybe post a pic how you positioned the cams when you checked.
 
ZombiePotatoSalad said:
As the manual suggests: One lobe pointing forward, the other pointing up.
I don't think this bike was maintained very well. The gasket is probably the original one, or at least pretty old. It tore in a couple places as I was removing the cover, and it looks... melted?
Here's a picture I took before I started messing with the shims: https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/256689074293702658/710256830722343004/20200513_132053.jpg
Click to expand...

Sounds right.

Scraping that old gasket may be a chore too if it's been neglected.

I'll offer a suggestion. If it were my bike, I'd pull that 2.55 from either exhaust #1 or #4 and replace it with a coin. A quarter is a bit smaller than a shim in diameter, but works just to keep the cam lobe from scraping the edge of the bucket. Silver/ copper is way softer than the lobe and won't hurt it. Probably won't even notice a mark on the coin.

Once you have the shim in hand and the quarter in it's place, use that shim to get measurements where the larger shims are, swapping them out and recording measurements one at a time. You can probably swap a couple and be in spec, but doing this shuffle will hopefully minimize the number of shims you need to order, which will definitely include a 2.45 maybe even a 2.4 to finish getting measurements.
 
Last edited:
ZombiePotatoSalad said:
Here's what I got when I checked the valve shims:

Intake #1
Clearance: ----
Shim: 2.70

Intake #2
Clearance: ----
Shim: 2.70

Intake #3
Clearance: ----
Shim: 2.65

Intake #4
Clearance: ----
Shim: 2.60X

Exhaust #1
Clearance: ----
Shim: 2.55

Exhaust #2
Clearance: ----
Shim: 2.65

Exhaust #3
Clearance: ----
Shim: 2.60X

Exhaust #4
Clearance: ----
Shim: 2.55

As you can see, there is no clearance, even for my thinnest blade.
Should I start by going 5 down? I can swap a couple of them around and see if that helps.
Click to expand...

ZombiePotatoSalad said:
As the manual suggests: One lobe pointing forward, the other pointing up.
I don't think this bike was maintained very well. The gasket is probably the original one, or at least pretty old. It tore in a couple places as I was removing the cover, and it looks... melted?
Here's a picture I took before I started messing with the shims: https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/256689074293702658/710256830722343004/20200513_132053.jpg
Click to expand...

Are you able to do a video call such as FaceTime?
 
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