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Got it started. Maybe some tips to get me on my way?- 79 550

  • Thread starter Thread starter Dark Jedi
  • Start date Start date
D

Dark Jedi

Guest
Howdy, again.

Due entirely to help from you great folks, the dead has risen from the grave. I can now start and run the 550. I tuned the carbs while the engine was warm, adjusting airflow for each until max rpm was obtained.

Once I got it started and tuned, I cleaned the plugs and rode it up and down the street at a variety of RPM. I came back and checked plugs, 2,3,4 were all good while 1 had black fluffy carbon building up.

After tuning the carbs again (2,3,4 needed nothing, 1 took a quarter to half turn out), I re-cleaned plugs and rode it again for some testing. All is good until about 55mph, where it would bog badly. I did some testing, and in any gear aside from 1 and 2, it bogs at higher RPM. It would probably bog in 1 and 2 if they werent so low geared as to be rediculous... :)

Checked plugs, and they looked good. :? Perhaps they would show some starvation after a longer ride.

I ran out of time, and the snow has returned for a few days, so I hope to do more this next weekend. Next on the agenda is to check the carb bowls for fuel when it bogs down. What suggestions do you folks have?
 
what type of carbs do you have? the vm (old looking ones) or the newer cv type carbs. i can tell you how many turns you need to go with the air mix screw for the cv type carbs. i look more thur my book to find the vm type. you will also need to sync your carbs useing a mercury stix to best tune the bike for optimal performance.
 
Re: Got it started. Maybe some tips to get me on my way?- 79

Re: Got it started. Maybe some tips to get me on my way?- 79

The first thing I would do is put a timing light on it, set the idle adjustment knob so that it will hold a steady 1500 rpm and check to see that both sets of points are firing on the correct marks for the no advance setting. (f1 for left point set and cylinders 1 and 4) (f2 for right point set and cylinders 2 and 3) Once that is done, adjust the idle knob so the engine will run a steady 2500 rpm (full advance rpm) and check the advance timing marks and adjust as needed (the marks you are now looking for will be F4 for the left point set and cylinders 1 and 4) (F3 for the right point set and cylinders 2 and 3) Your problem sounds like your ignition timing is too retarded.

Earl

Dark Jedi said:
Howdy, again.

Due entirely to help from you great folks, the dead has risen from the grave. I can now start and run the 550. I tuned the carbs while the engine was warm, adjusting airflow for each until max rpm was obtained.

Once I got it started and tuned, I cleaned the plugs and rode it up and down the street at a variety of RPM. I came back and checked plugs, 2,3,4 were all good while 1 had black fluffy carbon building up.

After tuning the carbs again (2,3,4 needed nothing, 1 took a quarter to half turn out), I re-cleaned plugs and rode it again for some testing. All is good until about 55mph, where it would bog badly. I did some testing, and in any gear aside from 1 and 2, it bogs at higher RPM. It would probably bog in 1 and 2 if they werent so low geared as to be rediculous... :)

Checked plugs, and they looked good. :? Perhaps they would show some starvation after a longer ride.

I ran out of time, and the snow has returned for a few days, so I hope to do more this next weekend. Next on the agenda is to check the carb bowls for fuel when it bogs down. What suggestions do you folks have?
Click to expand...
 
Timing, huh? I'll look in to that.

Sadly, the Tach is one of the things I need to fix.. :?

Any tricks for judging rpm otherwise?
 
The tach on your bike wouldn't be accurate enough to tune by even if it worked. You should get one for tune ups, they're not that expensive. I wonder, is there a tach that reads our engines directly? I used an old one on mine that only has a 6 and 8 cyl. scale, but I forget what I did to read it for my bike.
 
I've been tuning motorcycles utilizing the tach on the bike for over 30 years and I've found it to be plenty accurate.

Earl


Hotblack said:
The tach on your bike wouldn't be accurate enough to tune by even if it worked.
Click to expand...
 
Nope, you cant accurately listen for a specific rpm. :-) Make fixing the tach the first thing you do.

Earl


Dark Jedi said:
Timing, huh? I'll look in to that.

Sadly, the Tach is one of the things I need to fix.. :?

Any tricks for judging rpm other
wise?
Click to expand...
 
My question for you is the airbox/filter installed before "tuning" the carbs and test riding?
 
I believe you Earl seeing as I was only six when you started tuning bikes :wink: I guess it can be done after all.
 
Egad! I must be getting old. :-) :-) :-) I guess its pretty bad when I stop to think and note that I've never ridden a bike that had an electronic ignition, digital instruments, a gas guage, air shocks, monoshocks, and many without an electric starter or vacum operated petcock. eh eh eh One nice thing about not having something. It never breaks, so you dont have to fix it. :-)

Earl



Hotblack said:
I believe you Earl seeing as I was only six when you started tuning bikes :wink: I guess it can be done after all.
Click to expand...
 
Dark Jedi said:
Timing, huh? I'll look in to that.

Sadly, the Tach is one of the things I need to fix.. :?

Any tricks for judging rpm otherwise?
Click to expand...

In case you're interested,I saw a ''new old stock'' '79 550 speedo/tach unit on E-bay. I think the title I saw it under was ''Suzuki speedometer'' and ''Suzuki NOS''. Good luck on the bike. KK.
 
dallyr said:
My question for you is the airbox/filter installed before "tuning" the carbs and test riding?
Click to expand...

Yes, OEM airbox was installed, all clamps tightened.
 
Update: Could not get timing right for anything. Then... closed the gap a little on 1-4 and everything snapped in to place.

Need to re-tune the carbs, it's a tad lean with full spark.
 
Update:

Had to check compression on the Jeep, so I tested the bike while I had the guage borrowed.

1- 122 cold, 125 hot
2- 123 cold, 125 hot
3- 124 cold, 124 hot
4- 122 cold, 126 hot

Looks like I am getting good compression. That helps rule out a lot!

Plugs after running a while:
1- good tan colored deposits
2- black powdery deposits
3- good tan deposits
4- black wet deposits (not oily)

look like my coil is the problem? If I recall correctly, coil one goes to 1-3 and coil two goes to 2-4.
 
NOPE, it not your coils. The left coil fires 1 and 4. The right coil fires 2 and 3. Consequently, its not your points or timing either. :-) You have two individual problems. Try replacing the spark plug caps. NGK makes these boots and they are available at any cycle shop (should be) for about 3-4 bucks each.

Earl

Dark Jedi said:
Update:

Had to check compression on the Jeep, so I tested the bike while I had the guage borrowed.

1- 122 cold, 125 hot
2- 123 cold, 125 hot
3- 124 cold, 124 hot
4- 122 cold, 126 hot

Looks like I am getting good compression. That helps rule out a lot!

Plugs after running a while:
1- good tan colored deposits
2- black powdery deposits
3- good tan deposits
4- black wet deposits (not oily)

look like my coil is the problem? If I recall correctly, coil one goes to 1-3 and coil two goes to 2-4.
Click to expand...
 
Plug caps, huh? Suspecting some spark weakening from a breakdown of insultion?
 
No, resistance increases due to aging.

Earl


Dark Jedi said:
Plug caps, huh? Suspecting some spark weakening from a breakdown of insultion?
Click to expand...
 
earlfor said:
I've been tuning motorcycles utilizing the tach on the bike for over 30 years and I've found it to be plenty accurate.

Earl


Hotblack said:
The tach on your bike wouldn't be accurate enough to tune by even if it worked.
Click to expand...

I was only half-way to AARP then
Click to expand...
 
Well, let me see, you were halfway to AARP 30 years ago, so now youre WAAAY beyond AARP age. LMAO :-) :-)

Earl



terrybird said:
earlfor said:
I've been tuning motorcycles utilizing the tach on the bike for over 30 years and I've found it to be plenty accurate.

Earl


Hotblack said:
The tach on your bike wouldn't be accurate enough to tune by even if it worked.
Click to expand...

I was only half-way to AARP then
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
I wasn't thinking about this until I went to look at it. I just replaced the coils, and the wires and caps are part of the coil itself on my bike. Not real happy with that either. That means I get to replace the coils whenever the plug wires wear out, and vice versa.


earlfor said:
No, resistance increases due to aging.

Earl
Click to expand...
 
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