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Got the speed issue fixed, but found a few more

  • Thread starter Thread starter Dave_A
  • Start date Start date
D

Dave_A

Guest
A while back, I had trouble with the engine dying in high-load operation (i.e. freeway speed). I solved this by aquiring a lid for my airbox, and a new air filter. However, I now have 2 new issues...

Issue #1: Idle

It idles normally on start up, but settles in at around 2500-3000RPM after running a while. Performance is good (imho... No more dying on the freeway, and it moves pretty fast), and the idle doesn't seem to be causing any other trouble...

Issue #2: Wierd metallic noise at high revs

It sounds something like 'keys vibrating on a metal tabletop', or 'a jackhammer on concrete, heard from a ways away'. Only happens at high revs (usually after a sudden change), upshifting or speeding back up eliminates it. I've been told it's either valve trouble or the cam chain... Is this right?

Issue #3: Exhaust leak

Visible if there's enough condensation in the pipes to create steam. The steam blows out of the underside of the right-hand (brake-side) pipe, right around the foot pegs... Is there an easy way to plug this???
 
#3
The leak is normal, you should have a hole in that area on both sides.

#1
I have this too, it helps a bit if you set your idle down to 1000 RPM after running for a while. This started to happen to me after pulling the carbs and removing the pilot screw. At that point I replaced the pilot screws and put the whole lot back in and syncd the carbs. (they started out 3/4 of a turn further open than specified in manual so I put them back in that way)

Did you do something like this?

Steve
 
srivett said:
#3
#1
I have this too, it helps a bit if you set your idle down to 1000 RPM after running for a while. This started to happen to me after pulling the carbs and removing the pilot screw. At that point I replaced the pilot screws and put the whole lot back in and syncd the carbs. (they started out 3/4 of a turn further open than specified in manual so I put them back in that way)

Did you do something like this?

Steve
Click to expand...

I gave the carbs a cursory cleaning when I got the bike (took them apart as far as possible without messing with the adjustment screws, then cleaned with B-12 carb cleaner)...

They have not been synched since I owned the bike (never tried, this is my first carbed vehicle of any kind (My cars have been EFI vehicles), and I don't know the maintanance history as I got it on auction from the Salvation Army.
 
Hay I got my gs850 from a guy who got it from Salvation Army auction too
 
Re: Got the speed issue fixed, but found a few more

Dave_A said:
A while back, I had trouble with the engine dying in high-load operation (i.e. freeway speed). I solved this by aquiring a lid for my airbox, and a new air filter. However, I now have 2 new issues...
Click to expand...

The lid.... The airbox has a lid....?

You have GOT to be kidding. I have been banging my head against the exact same problem for months, and it may just be a freaking lid?????

:oops: 8O
 
Re: Got the speed issue fixed, but found a few more

Dave_A said:
Issue #2: Wierd metallic noise at high revs

It sounds something like 'keys vibrating on a metal tabletop', or 'a jackhammer on concrete, heard from a ways away'. Only happens at high revs (usually after a sudden change), upshifting or speeding back up eliminates it. I've been told it's either valve trouble or the cam chain... Is this right?
Click to expand...

Does the noise change pitch with a change in engine speed? Where does the noise sound like it's coming from?

I had a problem with a fixed-pitch noise. Wouldn't make the noise when it was idling, but anything above idle it would start to rattle. The noise sounded like it was coming from the gearbox. I dismantled the clutch and found there were several loose springs on the clutch basket. Haven't had a chance to install the new basket yet, but apparently this is a common problem with GS bikes.

Michael
 
Dark Jedi:
I think people remove the lid when they do a Stage 1 jet kit.

Steve
 
srivett said:
Dark Jedi:
I think people remove the lid when they do a Stage 1 jet kit.

Steve
Click to expand...

Ahh. No stage1 on this puppy that I can tell. I've had the carbs apart a couple of times trying to figure out why they refuse to tune to factory spec.... :?

Airbox cover inbound. Gonna check the manifold o-rings while I am poking around. Cheap and relatively easy to replace since the carbs are already out.
 
Re: Got the speed issue fixed, but found a few more

crwper said:
Dave_A said:
Issue #2: Wierd metallic noise at high revs

It sounds something like 'keys vibrating on a metal tabletop', or 'a jackhammer on concrete, heard from a ways away'. Only happens at high revs (usually after a sudden change), upshifting or speeding back up eliminates it. I've been told it's either valve trouble or the cam chain... Is this right?
Click to expand...

Does the noise change pitch with a change in engine speed? Where does the noise sound like it's coming from?

I had a problem with a fixed-pitch noise. Wouldn't make the noise when it was idling, but anything above idle it would start to rattle. The noise sounded like it was coming from the gearbox. I dismantled the clutch and found there were several loose springs on the clutch basket. Haven't had a chance to install the new basket yet, but apparently this is a common problem with GS bikes.

Michael
Click to expand...

Nope, it's a fixed pitch, fixed volume rattle/peening noise... At first I thought it was just my keys (i have a bunch on the ring with the bike key) rattling against the handlebars. Then I picked them up while riding, and still heard the noise... Sounds like, well, keys rattling, or someone using a jackhammer (but quieter. about the same volume as the engine, but a little louder)... It comes and goes, usually un-doing whatever change in speed I just did, or shifting to a higher gear eliminates it.

My clutch basket is not the problem, as I just tightened everything last year when I took it apart to inspect the clutch (as part of 're activating' the bike after I got it)...
 
If you don't want to hear your keys rattling you can put a little patch of black duct tape one you handle bar. Grey duct tape may look a little out of place.

Steve
 
Re: Got the speed issue fixed, but found a few more

Dave_A said:
Nope, it's a fixed pitch, fixed volume rattle/peening noise... At first I thought it was just my keys (i have a bunch on the ring with the bike key) rattling against the handlebars. Then I picked them up while riding, and still heard the noise... Sounds like, well, keys rattling, or someone using a jackhammer (but quieter. about the same volume as the engine, but a little louder)... It comes and goes, usually un-doing whatever change in speed I just did, or shifting to a higher gear eliminates it.

My clutch basket is not the problem, as I just tightened everything last year when I took it apart to inspect the clutch (as part of 're activating' the bike after I got it)...
Click to expand...

And I thought I was just going crazy. I've got the exact same noise in my bike - haven't been able to figure it out either...I thought I might figure it out once I got the cam cover off, but since you're already there and none the wiser I guess the problem is rooted somewhere else :?
 
From what your describing, especially with the change in RPM, maybe the cam chain phenolics are grooved to much and worn out, and your tensioner is not taking up the excess slack. :twisted:
 
Regarding #1:
I had this problem. The way I solved it was as follows:

1. Rode the bike for at least a half hour to get the engine warmed up real well (bike was idling high).
2. Adjusted idle screw so that bike was idling at 1000 RPM exactly.
3. Adjusted mixture screws (removed tamper-proof caps) to attain maximum RPM (now bike was idling at about 1500 RPM).
4. Re-adjusted idle screw to bring idle back down to 1000 RPM.

Step 3 above is absolutely critical. Now, when I start the bike up from completely cold (with full choke), it idles at about 1100 RPM for a couple of minutes and then goes up to 4000-5000 RPM. I let it stay at 4000-5000 RPM, with full choke, for at least a few minutes. Then I bring the choke to zero, slowly. Then I ride and the bike idles perfectly.

I think most here would agree that skipping this warm-up procedure is asking for poor performance.
 
Letting the bike run for any length of time at 5000 rpm to warm up is not a good idea. After a couple minutes when rpm starts to increase, the choke should be decreased and will act as a throttle and limit rpm. I would never run the engine at 5K before the oil is dispersed and warm.

Earl


nabrams said:
Now, when I start the bike up from completely cold (with full choke), it idles at about 1100 RPM for a couple of minutes and then goes up to 4000-5000 RPM. I let it stay at 4000-5000 RPM, with full choke, for at least a few minutes. Then I bring the choke to zero, slowly. Then I ride and the bike idles perfectly.

I think most here would agree that skipping this warm-up procedure is asking for poor performance.
Click to expand...
 
I never let my cold engine go beyond 2500 max when choking... :twisted:
 
#1 Most Suzuki's syhould idle when fully warmed up between 900 to 1200 rpm depending on where you live. (alitude, air pressure and what not)

#2 sounds like valve clatter or cam chain to me. Check those out.

I dont know about the exhaust leak.

Now the biggie. NEVER let you bike warm up at 5000 rpm. Its disaster waiting to happen. Keep adjusting the choke down so the warm up idle is between 2000 to 2500 rpm MAX. Anything faster and the cold oil is not going to get to the needed parts and lube them properly. Metal on metal contact at that rpm is asking for BIG BIG trouble. You think that cam chain/valve clatter is loud now.

Lastly take the carbs off and clean them completly and thouroghly. No bike regardless of the size will run worth a tinkers damn with dirty carbs.
 
Yep Jay, for sure something is seriously out of whack if you need to pull 5K with the choke to keep the bike running on start up. On my 750, I pull half choke out, touch starter and its running in less than 2 secs. Five more seconds and I push the choke to off, and it idles at 1000 rpm all by itself. :-)
Never touch the throttle.

Earl

Jay B said:
Lastly take the carbs off and clean them completly and thouroghly. No bike regardless of the size will run worth a tinkers damn with dirty carbs.
Click to expand...
 
srivett said:
If you don't want to hear your keys rattling you can put a little patch of black duct tape one you handle bar. Grey duct tape may look a little out of place.

Steve
Click to expand...

It's not the keys... It just SOUNDS like keys...
 
Guys,

Thanks for the tip about not warming up at 5000 RPM.
On my bike, it takes about 3 minutes to make the jump to 5000 RPM (it jumps from 2000 to 5000 in just a couple of seconds). I thought the oil would be well circulated by the time 3 minutes had elapsed, but I'll play it safe anyway.
The bike sure does run smoother though after a long warm-up. If I just let it warm up for a couple of minutes, it is significantly less responsive.

Thanks again.
 
propflux01 said:
From what your describing, especially with the change in RPM, maybe the cam chain phenolics are grooved to much and worn out, and your tensioner is not taking up the excess slack. :twisted:
Click to expand...

This means what??? Replace the cam chain??? Replace the tensioner??? Adjust something???
 
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