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Groan..Its happened to me now.

tatu

Forum Mentor
Past Site Supporter
Regulator/rectifier's goosed, my battery is cooked dry, connections have got hot and black. (I've changed all of those for new) bike only runs if the lights are on.
My question is.. have we got a definative best replacement rectifier/regulator? I would be grateful for any input. I know this is well worn subject but I was wondering if there was a best failsafe prefered unit. Thanks for any input.

Chris
 
Hi babes.
The Honda Superdream R/R is the commonest replacement in UK i think.
XXX
 
Have you already dealt with the cause of the R/R failure?

Not yet, I will measure the three legs on the stator tomorrow, I only had time to wheel the sick suzy in and grab the triumph, I'm expecting to find a problem there. Is an OEM the way to go or is there an alternative?
 
Originally Posted by Seana23
Hi babes.
The Honda Superdream R/R is the commonest replacement in UK i think.
XXX

Got one and it's on its way.
Thanks


It has been several years since I last did this, but if I recall correctly, you have an additional (sense) wire on the Honda unit, and the green wire is ground and the black one is the sense wire that gets connected into a live circuit on the bike, such as tail or head light.
 
It has been several years since I last did this, but if I recall correctly, you have an additional (sense) wire on the Honda unit, and the green wire is ground and the black one is the sense wire that gets connected into a live circuit on the bike, such as tail or head light.

I was thinking about this today, I'm not sure that the sense wire going to the lights would work as in UK on bikes this old the lights are switchable, so I suppose it would have to go to th positive side of the swiched cicuit? ie: any orange wire? Being as they are live from the ignition switch.
Is this correct? Thanks for the help.
 
I was thinking about this today, I'm not sure that the sense wire going to the lights would work as in UK on bikes this old the lights are switchable, so I suppose it would have to go to th positive side of the swiched cicuit? ie: any orange wire? Being as they are live from the ignition switch.
Is this correct? Thanks for the help.
Hook your sense wire to the hot side of your brake light switch.There is a tutoral on Cliffs site how to wire it in and how to eliminate the loop to the headlight switch so all three legs of the stator are being regulated.
 
Last edited:
My question is.. have we got a definative best replacement rectifier/regulator?
The current trend (pardon the pun :oops:) is the Compufire R/R.

Not cheap by any means, but is supposed to be the LAST R/R your bike will ever need.

I have one ready to go on my wife's bike, just didn't have time to do it when I was home last week. :o

.
 
Hook your sense wire to the hot side of your brake light switch.There is a tutoral on Cliffs site how to wire it in and how to eliminate the loop to the headlight switch so all three legs of the stator are being regulated.

I'll look again, thanks
 
The current trend (pardon the pun :oops:) is the Compufire R/R.

Not cheap by any means, but is supposed to be the LAST R/R your bike will ever need.

I have one ready to go on my wife's bike, just didn't have time to do it when I was home last week. :o

.

Steve, I missed this completely! Thanks for the pointer though.

Anyway, I bought a honda jobbie and didn't like the idea of doing the job that way, so in the end I replaced the lot, The stator checked out ok resistance and for good measure (no pun intended) I meggered it too, it checked out ok so I suspect it broke down during operation/heat. I replaced the stator with a new one from gm-cycles. I had read about the shingdengen mosfets. My way of thinking is that the original lasted thirty years so for sure this will see me out, and I had already ordered this before I read about the compufire. I would have bought that instead but it was too late,so this is what I did.
This is the unit supplied by Moto-Electrix on ebay, I cut the end cooling fin off, trimmed the lower right corner

P1070416.jpg


and slotted the top hole which allowed the original mounting holes in the plate to be used and lifted the unit up a bit, and spaced it off the plate with five washers and longer screws.

P1070415.jpg


Then I moved the flasher bracket from here, top left, by drilling the weld out and re spotting it back in the lower left corner

P1070414.jpg


P1070418.jpg


I drilled and dropped the starter solenoid a little to give a little more clearance and extended the flasher wires.
And this is the completed job, It seems to be working ok charging 14.4 volts above about 2.5k rpm.
P1070425.jpg


The only thing remaining is that the indicators seem to be intermittent in that sometimes when I indicate right it doesn't work till I flick left then right, I suspect the self cancelling is damaged now. They are available new still and its no suprise being as they cost 320 quid some $500! Also there is now a single backfire when throttling off from speed that was never there before and is unlikely to be related but I'll still check it out tomorrow.

Thanks for the suggestions people.
 
The only thing remaining is that the indicators seem to be intermittent in that sometimes when I indicate right it doesn't work till I flick left then right, I suspect the self cancelling is damaged now. They are available new still and its no suprise being as they cost 320 quid some $500! people.

I have one of those 1st Generation Self Cancelling Units that does the exact same thing on a '79 GS1000E, except mine did that with the left side. I was able to pick one up off of E-bay and that fixed that problem.
 
I have one of those 1st Generation Self Cancelling Units that does the exact same thing on a '79 GS1000E, except mine did that with the left side. I was able to pick one up off of E-bay and that fixed that problem.

I picked up a couple of 1000 possible breakers back in the summer, for a project, I will check to see if either of those will be any good.
The indicators worked fine till the charge problem.
 
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