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gs 1000 e restoration

  • Thread starter Thread starter chandler
  • Start date Start date
Wow. Just wow. I have a 78 Gs1000e and could never expect to get it to what you have, I'm just depressed but awe inspired as well... Crazy... I'm currently as a wall, I want to progress but I haven't gotten a second wind to do so. I commend you on your bike and that is a beast!

=^.^=
 
Bike looks great, well done indeed. Have you had a chance to hit the roads with it yet? curious hows she's pulling.
 
thanks for the replies guys you need any info i will be glad to help i am getting close to being finished but just takes time dont want to rush have been working on bike since last summer of course i have had quite a few setbacks work , family WRONG parts and so on but cant wait till i am done just ordered stainless brake lines today

steve
 
Just got my tank back the other day, took a whole month to repair the paint bubble that developed around the filler cap neck. I now have a "new" seal for my gas cap, and while it was down for the tank, I put a set of black recessed levers on it (only thing that departs from stock) recovered the seat (ran out of excuses for not doing it), recharged the battery, put in a "new to me" turn signal control unit (turned out to be another "dud"), and did a little "tweeking" on the tail piece and newly painted seat underpan to get those to mate up correctly. And now she's ready to ride again!

100_1080.jpg
Steve your bike looks fantastic
 
thanks for the replies guys you need any info i will be glad to help i am getting close to being finished but just takes time dont want to rush have been working on bike since last summer of course i have had quite a few setbacks work , family WRONG parts and so on but cant wait till i am done just ordered stainless brake lines today

steve

Speaking of setbacks, well my newly refinished, refinished tank is developing little air bubbles along the left side of gas cap again. But the filler neck has been sealed. So I bleed out the air and took it to the painter, the only thing that we can determine is, and this is a long shot, a small hole underneath the gas cap area on the inside of the tank, fuel is working itself up under the paint, or the more likely scenario is fuel collects between the stainless steel top of the cap and between the part of the cap that it's crimped to and touches the tank and seeps out just enough to do the damage. The fix for now is to keep the cap off, tape over the filler hole,
and I'm going to use some contact cleaner around the edge of that cap,
and when dry I will use some silicone RTV to fill in that gap. Hopefully that will not cause the tank not to vent, as I believe it could vent through the key hole. The area the new bubbles formed would be just under the edge of the cap on the side that sits lowest with the sidestand down.
So, while I'm playing around with that, I took my other "spare" tank down to the painter with a Por-15 kit and told him to paint that.
When I get that tank back, and it'll be awhile, I'll pull this tank off and have the damage repaired again.
 
This and Chuck Hanns definitely inspire my 78 build.Doing a bit of a restomod skunk I'm getting from my friend AZR.Any progress?
 
i have just been super busy with lost of things going on but all over now;) . tonight was the first night in a week n half i worked on bike i really like how the newer 1100 brakes and rotors look on the bike.
had some issues with the stator wires getting hot almost certian i have that cured just rebuilt the rear master cylinder tonight all painted and going back on tommorrow .once brakes are done then i am painting the fuel tank have had a hard time trying to find the black pearl that was factory on the 79 E bikes . i might just take it to a shop and see if they can match it because the tail section on mine is origional and in excellent condition with the pearl paint
 
.once brakes are done then i am painting the fuel tank have had a hard time trying to find the black pearl that was factory on the 79 E bikes . i might just take it to a shop and see if they can match it because the tail section on mine is origional and in excellent condition with the pearl paint

I just told my painter to paint it black, here's a pic of my tail piece he painted, notice there's no ridge from the pin stripes that were "painted" on. It looked so good I just couldn't stick my chrome trim piece back on it
for fear of scratching it.

100_0996.jpg
 
I just told my painter to paint it black, here's a pic of my tail piece he painted, notice there's no ridge from the pin stripes that were "painted" on. It looked so good I just couldn't stick my chrome trim piece back on it
for fear of scratching it.

100_0996.jpg

wow Steve your painter does excellent work without a doubt cant believe he did the pinstriping looks factory . i may just go with plain black considering how awesome your bike looks
 
hey chandler i am currently rebuilding a 1981 gs 1000 gl and my question is whould you know where i could get a new set of carbs for it because one of the carbs the pin holster is broke and the jet is crap just need the right outside carb let me know thanks send me a email that whould be great at yadamean316@gmail.com thanks mathew
 
Stve..the air gap around the edges is so air can travel down the channel machined into the base metal of the cap and vent the tank. Sealing it with TRV may cause an unfavorable vapor locking in the tank.. May wanna just not fill then tank so much when you getb gas.
 
Stve..the air gap around the edges is so air can travel down the channel machined into the base metal of the cap and vent the tank. Sealing it with TRV may cause an unfavorable vapor locking in the tank.. May wanna just not fill then tank so much when you getb gas.

Yes Chuck, you are so right about that gas cap design. I took mine apart as far as you can without removing the lock and the stainless steel cover from the base. I followed the vent holes and the seam between the stainless steel cover and base is the natural vent. I used contact cleaner to remove any oil or gas residue and then washed with hot soapy water, then I used a hair dryer to dry it all out. I did in fact use some silicone RTV, but I limited it to the side the side stand is on. I also drained my gas tank which I added Star Brite, "Tron" to reduce the effects of ethanol and put only 2 gallons of straight 87 octane (was using 93) gas back in. I had switched to Star Brite Tron from Seafoam about the same time the problem started. Tank was repainted in December but didn't have a problem until April. Some of those additives have mineral spirits and such in them, as does STP gas treatment. I'm hoping it was the fuel additive that caused the paint to bubble. Don't even think it was as much the fuel touching it as it was just the vapors from it. I never had the tank more than half full when all this started happening.
Now this is about as far as I can go with it. If this doesn't change anything it's got to be the paint and I'll have to do something about that. Such as repaint the area under and just outside where the gas cap sits, maybe border it with a gold pin stripe. I believe it's the paint, time will tell. This is the only issue with my bike other than finding a fully functional Turn Signal Control Unit.
 
You may also want to be sure the Oring at the bottom of the lock cyclinder is in good shape..vapors and actual liquids can migrate up the cylider exspecially in a turn and gas is sloshing around inside then tank.
 
You may also want to be sure the Oring at the bottom of the lock cyclinder is in good shape..vapors and actual liquids can migrate up the cylider exspecially in a turn and gas is sloshing around inside then tank.

Good Point! I did, I originally thought the key hole was the primary vent, but the lock seems to be very close to being sealed, or completely sealed, I'm sure some must vent out of key hole unless there's an O ring underneath the stainless cover around the key hole. I'd have to tear the cap completely apart to answer that, which would destroy the cap.
 
Nope..the oring is at the bottom of the lock cylinder under the black plastic cover..remove the 2 screws and there it will be. No air transferes thru the cylinder area.
 
Also, many talk about lubricating the locks..I TOTALLY disagree and heres why. Oils and grease make dirt that collects stick in there and harden into a soild mass of goo. I prefer to use the rinse and dry method. I fill the lock cylinders from time to time with some denatured alcohol and turn the key around a bit to adqitate and loosen any crap. then i blow it all out with some compressed air. This is not recommended for the ignition cylinder though..just the service locks
 
Hello fellas have been on and off on the bike i am so close now not going to stop till done . tonight i completely dissasembled the carbs had some issues with them leaking fuel from the fittings between the carbs guess the orings are bad and i am also installing the dynajet stage 3 kit because i have K&n s and a kerker header also the dyna iggy.
while i have everything dissasembled all new gaskets and orings are going in them one question i have where is a good source for the orings ?

have also read a few posts about setting up the carbs with the dynajet kit by Keith Krouse i am following his directions .

here are a few pics of the carbs on the bench
P6040016.jpg




P6040006.jpg
 
of course after closer inspection my fittings are the sleeved ones and dont use Orings wich are not avialable any more
 
I purchased one of the sleeves from Z1 and I'm pretty happy with it so far. On all my other rebuilds I have used a tube of gasket maker that is gas safe on my sleeves that didn't have o-rings, has worked every time. Just have to remember to point the fuel tee in the right direction while things are fresh, once it dries it dries pretty solid but it comes apart easy enough and is easy enough to clean of the sleeves and carbs for future work.
 
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