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GS 1000 Flywheel Removal...

tkent02

Forum LongTimer
Past Site Supporter
Easy as pie. Remove the flywheel bolt with a 17mm wrench, shouldn't be very tight, you can hold the other end of the crank with a 19mm.

The internal threads on the flywheel are the same thread as the swingarm pivot, so grab you spare pivot, or pull the one out of your bike. (the bearings in there probably need a little grease anyway) The threads are only as long as the hole is deep, so you need to put something into the hole before the pivot to take up a little space. I used a little nut I found on the floor. Grease the pivot threads, screw the pivot into the flywheel, turn it in with a wrench.

Pop!

Didn't take much torque, I did it with one hand and a little six inch ratchet.

Take the money you didn't spend on the Suzuki tool and buy something nice.

Like a starter clutch.
 
good tip there, unfortunately not all of them pop off that easy. some put up a real fight and invariably end up getting damaged with the onslaught of mallets and air tools!
 
Easy as pie. Remove the flywheel bolt with a 17mm wrench, shouldn't be very tight, you can hold the other end of the crank with a 19mm.

The internal threads on the flywheel are the same thread as the swingarm pivot, so grab you spare pivot, or pull the one out of your bike. (the bearings in there probably need a little grease anyway) The threads are only as long as the hole is deep, so you need to put something into the hole before the pivot to take up a little space. I used a little nut I found on the floor. Grease the pivot threads, screw the pivot into the flywheel, turn it in with a wrench.

Pop!

Didn't take much torque, I did it with one hand and a little six inch ratchet.

Take the money you didn't spend on the Suzuki tool and buy something nice.

Like a starter clutch.


Read this tip Tom and ran down to the garage and gave it a go. Used a small nut as a spacer and managed to cram it down into the threads on the inside of the crank.:mad: Not good. Fortunately, was able to get the nut out via drilling easily enough. Had another go but this time used a round allen head screw from a rear caliper - ground it down til it just fit through the hole in the rotor. This time the rotor popped off easy as pie when cranking on the large screw.

Good tip but if you need a spacer, use something sturdy like a large allen screw, not a small nut like I did.:cool:
 
Read this tip Tom and ran down to the garage and gave it a go. Used a small nut as a spacer and managed to cram it down into the threads on the inside of the crank.:mad: Not good. Fortunately, was able to get the nut out via drilling easily enough. Had another go but this time used a round allen head screw from a rear caliper - ground it down til it just fit through the hole in the rotor. This time the rotor popped off easy as pie when cranking on the large screw.

Good tip but if you need a spacer, use something sturdy like a large allen screw, not a small nut like I did.:cool:

How about officially changing the recommendation to a 6mm ball bearing.
That should work nicely.
 
That is a Good Tip . . . I'd don't have an extra swing arm pivot lying around but I would like to buy a M8 Bolt for that job. Wouldn't happen to know the bolt size & pitch?
 
It is M16 x 1.5

I tried it but did not want to force the bolt. Damaging the threads on the swingarm pivot is not a good thing. I found a tool on ebay for 10 bucks made from hardened steel. My 650G does not have a pivot bolt, it uses a different system so I need the tool anyway.

If your rotor is not on too tight this trick should work just fine.
 
How about officially changing the recommendation to a 6mm ball bearing.
That should work nicely.

I'm reviving this old thread to say for a spacer, do NOT "put something into the hole," or use "a little nut you found on the floor" or even use a ball bearing.

I used a ball bearing after reading the suggestion here and it flattened out the first thread on the inside of my crankshaft (red arrow).

I re-tapped it and it's fine now but it was pretty scary thinking about having to helicoil or worse even, having to tear down and replace the crank if it was too messed up to fix.

It also wasn't fun having to spend the money and take the extra time to go find the odd size tap (12mm x 1.25) which none of the common kits contain. And just because I was able to dodge a bullet, doesn't mean you will -- be careful!

VERY IMPORTANT: If you must use a spacer, use one that sits exactly FLAT on the rim of the crank (yellow arrow). Anything else is completely unacceptable.

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Take a 12mm spark plug, grind down the outside until it will fit inside the hole in the flywheel. Then insert an allen head cap screw in the center of it so that the swing arm bolt will have something to ride against.

PICT3402.jpg
 
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