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GS 1000 G - It mumbles from 3000 to 4000 rpm

I don't think that in 1980 the bikes were modified to comply with any pollution restrictions, but maybe I'm wrong and in any case it shouldn't have gaps during smooth acceleration.
I've reached the point that when accelerating it drowns at low revs and then shoots up like a damn.
Another thing I noticed is that candles 1 and 2 are white, while 3 and 4 are darker in color.
At this point I replaced the pin screws of the OEM steel petrol with 2.5 turns and I notice that the sound changes, it drowns out immediately and crackles, I will have to carry out some more tests, screwing or unscrewing to find an optimal condition​
 
Alexander said:
I don't think that in 1980 the bikes were modified to comply with any pollution restrictions
Click to expand...

Is that just a feeling or did you research that ?
The bikes are known for running lean due to emission laws ... since the 70's, actually
 
I didn't know this, thanks. I've had a few bikes and this behavior isn't normal. If it drowns and you're cornering at 2000/3000 rpm and you open the throttle but it doesn't respond well, it's painful. I think it's a setup of the fuel screws, but problems not related to carburetion can also come into play. But first I want to adjust these screws and see if anything changes to rule out them being the problem​
 
The snorkel is a "rubber" tube on the back of the airbox
Someone can chime in if the G has one

The idle mixture screws are for idle and off idle only
They should be about 2 1/2 turns from closed
 
July '82 Cycle World review of 11E:

"Throttle response is good but there is a small amount of lean surge at steady-state cruising speeds and low throttle openings. It's feels as though the carb pistons are undecided as to where, exactly, they want to position themselves. At higher road speeds, during hard riding, or in the fast-slow transitions of daily riding no carb problem is evident and the throttle is quick and responsive."
 
Ciao Big T
The snorkel is a "rubber" tube on the back of the airbox
Someone can chime in if the G has one

At the back of the air box there is a rubber that conveys the air directly from the front to the hole in the back, it was glued and it wasn't in good shape! at the top a tube for recovering engine vapors.
While the rubber fittings on the carburettors, I am unable to insert them correctly, either they are not exactly those for the BS34SS or I cannot find the direction​

The idle mixture screws are for idle and off idle only
They should be about 2 1/2 turns from closed​

The least you say! I put some new screws with the blunt tip to have springs, O-ring and washer, it worked but at half throttle there was a vacuum, if I open everything suddenly it is less noticeable, playing with the screw moves the gap at low rpm, if I unscrew it 3/ 4 laps at the end it remains accelerated and I operate the idle knob but essentially it doesn't change much.
I put the OEM pins back in at 2.5 turns from fully closed and it doesn't idle, drowns on acceleration, sputters when releasing the gas.
I noticed that the exhaust of the first cylinder was delayed in reaching temperature compared to the others.​ I don't want there to be more than one problem, including the electrical one
 
Hi Rob,
"Throttle response is good but there is a small amount of lean surge at steady-state cruising speeds and low throttle openings. It's feels as though the carb pistons are undecided as to where, exactly, they want to position themselves. At higher road speeds, during hard riding, or in the fast-slow transitions of daily riding no carb problem is evident and the throttle is quick and responsive."

the carburettor pistons seemed to be in good condition and I left them, if anything I could have replaced the tip but this too seemed ok.
If it's not the carburetors and it's an electrical problem, could it be the stator?​
 
Even with a dead stator, my Kaw Z1 performed fully for several hours if the battery was fully charged.
 
It seems that only the first owner saw these collectors, then no one else and for the G with mikuni BS34SS they are impossible to find, even the codes cannot be found and all those that are around, even if indicated for the G are from the GL , they look identical but are evidently not as decentralized as they should be, the GL is mechanically identical but has different carburettors, which is why the wheelbases do not match, especially the two lateral ones. However, with the silicone on the side where it gets air it solved the holes during acceleration,
initially described as thread title.
Now it seems to be going great, sometimes the clutch slips when engaging the torque,
but perhaps this depends on the synthetic oil, perhaps I'll put back the "rougher" mineral oil.​
 
Alexander said:
Now it seems to be going great, sometimes the clutch slips when engaging the torque,
but perhaps this depends on the synthetic oil, perhaps I'll put back the "rougher" mineral oil.​
Click to expand...

Synthetics don't make clutches slip.
De-glaze the plates and fit new OEM springs.
 
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