Hello, guys, thanks for all your advice ,
My ignition advance is moving freely, so the carb setup must be the cause.
I will run the bike without pods and/or blank them partially off.
Hope it works!!
OK. Considering what you say has been repaired/replaced, (most of electrical/valve clearances/carbs) I'd suspect the jetting too, and we KNOW if you set the carbs to factory specs, it's lean at all 3 jetting circuits regardless of any other possible problem.
But you have to be ready to re-jet. It sounds like you've done most of the necessary tuning/maintanance already, but be sure of a few more things so you can accurately test and re-jet.
Verify the pods are flowing well as mentioned. If they are K&N's, they must be oiled properly. Their flow characteristics can even be compromised by cleaning them the wrong way, though they are permanently damaged if that happens. K&N cleaner or a mild diluted solution of water and "409"/similar, will work to cut the old oil film. Try to keep the solution on the outer side of pleats. I use a shallow pan with maybe 1/4" of solution. Round filters should be slowly rolled in the pan. Ovals should be "dipped and rotated" in the solution. Once soaked enough, you always rinse these filters from the INSIDE-OUT, and with low pressure water. Shake out and air dry only. No blow dryers, etc. I re-oil by spraying from about 4" or so. I make one fairly quick pass per approx' 2 to 3 pleats. If you oil "each pleat" as K&N says, it's very easy to over oil and air starve the bike. And no, riding it around to suck out extra oil is the wrong thing to try. Re-clean and re-oil if you over oil.
If the pods are non oil type, be sure they're flowing well.
Next, verify good fuel flow from the petcock at all positions.
Don't run fuel filters. If you have rust particles, seal the tank.
Be sure the vacuum line is good and no kinks.
Be sure the fuel line is 5/16" and no kinks.
Verify you have B8ES plugs, gapped approx' .028" works well for the Dyna S.
Verify the timing advance is working smoothly by shooting the marks with a timing gun. Very important.
Be sure you set those float levels at .94" or VERY close to.
REMOVE the two floatbowl vent lines as I said. Leave the ports open. This is also required in the various jet kit instructions.
AFTER making your JET NEEDLE position changes, bench synch the carbs. If you need help I have a detailed post at this site to help you. Remember, the bench synch must be followed by a vacuum tool synch to accurately re-jet/judge performance/read plugs. If the jet needles are disturbed/changed on VM carbs, you must synch again. You must have valve clearances and ignition timing spot on before any vacuum synch.
Now you can re-jet.
I have no idea what pipe or pods you have. That would help so I can make close as possible suggestions.
If you want to try to make the stock jet needles work, that's fine, but be aware they may not work well. It depends on how well the bike flows.
If stock needles and your pipe/pods are flowing well...the only chance the stock needles have of supplying the correct mixture is by placing the e-clip in the bottom/richest position (clip furthest from the top of needle). That's all for the jet needle. If solid 1/3 throttle position tests/plug reads still say lean, then you need to get a stage 3 DJ kit and try position 4 from the top initially.
Main jet... Mikuni 130 should work fine as long as it's flowing well. This size jet is approx' the same as a 138 DJ main and the 138 is supplied in their jet kit, along with a 142. If the bike flows even better, you may want to try a Mikuni 132.5 or even 135. Most 1000's I've jetted with pipe/pod mods are happy with the DJ138's (130 Mikuni). If you are at quite high elevations, I suggest 2.5 to 5 leaner jet. Test at full throttle.
Pilot circuit...if stock needles, you can try running the stock 15 pilot jets. Just simple richer pilot fuel screw adjustment (underneath) may be enough to assist the stock jet. Try about 2 turns out from LIGHTLY SEATED initially and test. If still lean by the time the screws are 3 turns out, I suggest a 17.5 pilot jet and return the pilot fuel screws to approx' 1 turn out and continue testing. Test the pilot circuit/get reads by running minimal throttle, steady cruise about 35 mph in 4th/5th gear uphill/level is good. Do what the plugs/performance say. If you need the larger pilot jets, be sure you get the exact same length. There are 2 sizes for these carbs and you don't want the other size.
If you run the stage 3 kit, the stock pilot jets almost always work fine. The more tapered DJ needle have a much earlier throttle position effect and they work better with the stock pilots than larger pilots. I know the pilot and jet needle are different circuits but the above is true.
Only pilot circuit change needed with DJ needles is to richen the pilot fuel screw a bit. Usually a 1/2 additional turn beyond stock setting is good. About 1 1/2 turns total. Fine tuning may be necessary.
Side air screws...are always adjusted using the "highest rpm method". They will end up approx' 1 1/2 to 2 turns out.
Don't necessarily blame any excessive decel' pop on mixture, first be sure the pipe gaskets are good/new.
So after all other tuning/above is done... jet change, bench synch, start up and warm up fully, set air screws, then vacuum synch. Test. Good luck!
/