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gs 1100 leaks in the forks

  • Thread starter Thread starter Cyg
  • Start date Start date
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Cyg

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I did alot of reading on here tonight about changing them seals on this gs 1100 shaftie 84 model. I saw the tool that one person made. I read that a spark plug 5/8 ths with an extension is another method. I never did find anywhere if all I have too do is change the oil seals. I read that atf 15 weight is a good wieght oil too use. So just prop the bike up on center stand disemble the forks and order new oil seals ones from biker bandit? Question, is it ok too ride with the leak for now till labor day or will I be taking a chance on wheel wobble with only one side leaking. The leak started two weeks ago. The puddle under it is about 3"x 6". I am really bummed cause I put the new painted tank and covers on tonight and want too ride it.

I will wait for an answer before it gets too dark here.

Motorcycles%20049.jpg
 
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If a biker friend of mine can be believed, the only thing you will have to change is the oil seal. I have the same issue. :(

Good Luck. :)
 
First, I recommend using fork oil. ATF is not consistent in its weight, so it would be a crap shoot at best. For that large of a bike, you probably want 15 weight.
Second, if you really want to ride this weekend, I would just put more fluid in it (to spec) and order the seals.
Third, "just the seals" is a bit of an understatement. If you disassemble the forks, it will be an undertaking. It is worth doing, for sure. But it is not a one hour task.
Good luck, and hope you enjoy the weekend.
 
Its just one side, is it under any kind of pressure with the air shrader valve on top?

So I unscrew the air shcrader valve, then just add the fluid in there? Do I have too go too a bike shop too pick up the right kind of oil? Then how much air pressure do I add the one fork again. I see how the clymer tells too take em apart and put em back. But too just add oil then go into that detail. Thanks for the input.

I do need to ride this weekend going too meet up with my sister who I havent seen in ten years at the dells.

Sorry I am tired I was out in the shop all night tonight makeing a skull brake light. work thru my post hehe.
 
If it is leaking, you probably do not have any air pressure left.
However, it is under pressure of the fork spring. Take care in removing the cap; it will try to fly across the room.
I don't have a book on your model, someone else will have to tell you how much to add and how (my Kaws are measured with the fork extended, it seems that Suzukis usually have the fork compressed).
Putting the cap back on usually requires some effort also. But the end result is worth it, both in ride quality and safety.
Yes, you will have to go to a bike shop to buy the fork oil. Sad, but true.
 
Here is something you might try. I've heard both sides of the ATF arguments. Drain those fork tubes. Since this is only going to be temporary, get a quart of, I guess they still make it, ATF with seal sweller/conditioner. Fill both legs with this stuff. I did this repair about 15 years ago to an old Honda CB-450. The stuff I used was made by Solder Seal (Gunk, Liquid Wrench, etc). I was amazed because the stuff worked.

Rode it for quite a while till I finally changed the seals. Worth a try, if you can still find it. The stuff I had said compatible with all ATF. With today's transmission specific fluids I'm not sure this stuff is still around. It's from back in the Dexron and Type F only days.
 
I had problems with my oil seals leaking, I was very slack initially and now have some suggestions that may be usefull.
Why did the seal leak?
Check the fork legs and feel for any pitting or rust, use high number wet and dry to smooth any bumps.
I now clean and spray oil on the legs fairley often.
Tie a rag around the fork boot to absorb any leakage as it can get onto the brake pads and then they will need to be replaced urgently.
Either buy the special tool to undo the nut in the bottom or just take the legs into a good mechanic and let them do it.
It is not a quick job, it is a pain and it needs to be done properly.
The legs have to be put back in level, it is not hard and replacing the fluid and air is simple. You will need a manual with correct specs.
I have a special tool like a syringe with a pressure gauge and flexible hose that makes putting air in easy. they take low pressure.
Hope this is usefull
Bye
 
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I had the bike on its center stand for about three weeks while getting the tanks prepped and painted. I am assuming since I ride it alot that it didnt have time too pool there. I will try the temp fix tonight. I will post on here if I pulled it off or not. The clymer manual shows an oil pump, that has a hole drilled it. then you just suck out what you don't need. Harbor frieght might have a cheapy.
 
Ok I bought the atf from napa dexron type fa they call it thickest they had. I bought the sealer gunk from them too.

I went too harbor frieght and picked a up suction dispenstion type plunger. The manual said if I drill a hole 1/8 size an inch from the end and over fill them then suck out enough till it dont suck no more. that too them is level. I stick in till it hits the bottom tube's top end.

I put in about 20 psi of air. I must say this was a messy job. I had atf everywhere. I also left the forks on the bike. Which next time I change the seal I wont do it on the bike. Too messy.

Took it out for 50 miles tonight. I went between 65 and 70 too see how she would handle. It did seem too vibrate more, or that may have been the new hand grips I add too. I did some tight weaves and nothing there. But on the way behind some trailers it seemed I was fighting the bike more in the wind.

OK question time what is wheel wobble and if I did happen to not get the correct amount in each what are problems will I be facing when I ride it for ten hours this sunday.

Manual says I can add in 36 psi, should I go for it? I have in there 20 psi right now.
 
My 1982 GS1100E had wheel wobble. Believe me, if you had it you would know it. Mine had a bad seal when I got it. It would start to wobble around 80 mph but would go away if you kept accelerating. It got worse over time and would wobble at any speed if you let go fo the handlebars.

It can be a little scary depending on how bad it is.
 
I would hesistate to put any more air in your forks at this time.
Remember, your issue is that the seals leak. More air pressure will exacerbate the issue.
 
ok sounds like a plan no more air till the new seals arrive.

Yes I checked them tonight after work and no more leak. So yes this work.

If you do, do this quick fix but one of these from harbor frieght.

Its only 14 bucks and well worth it.

Motorcycles%20052.jpg



Ok see that hole its a 1/8 hole drilled one inch above the end. Take that and over fill your tubes. take all ur stuff out etc. suck out the extra fluid till it hits that hole. according the manual that is eaxtcly enough for both sides. Just make sure the pipe is touching the inside tubes top. If wheel wobble is noticable then I don't have it. It just feels softer too me is all when I ride. I did take the handle bars and wiggle them back and forth too see what happens. Nothing so far. Maybe I shouldn't do that tho. lol not at 50 miles per hour. I can sway it normal. I thinks its more fear of my own work then anything. I bet its fine.

I did a search on wheel wobble and it seems that only the main cause of it is over packing wrongly. a badly installed windshield or a bad spokes or a worn bearing.
 
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Cyg said:
Ok I bought the atf from napa dexron type fa they call it thickest they had. I bought the sealer gunk from them too.

I went too harbor frieght and picked a up suction dispenstion type plunger. The manual said if I drill a hole 1/8 size an inch from the end and over fill them then suck out enough till it dont suck no more. that too them is level. I stick in till it hits the bottom tube's top end.

I put in about 20 psi of air. I must say this was a messy job. I had atf everywhere. I also left the forks on the bike. Which next time I change the seal I wont do it on the bike. Too messy.

Took it out for 50 miles tonight. I went between 65 and 70 too see how she would handle. It did seem too vibrate more, or that may have been the new hand grips I add too. I did some tight weaves and nothing there. But on the way behind some trailers it seemed I was fighting the bike more in the wind.

OK question time what is wheel wobble and if I did happen to not get the correct amount in each what are problems will I be facing when I ride it for ten hours this sunday.

Manual says I can add in 36 psi, should I go for it? I have in there 20 psi right now.
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Im sure it says start at 36 and no more then bleed off till you get to the recommended psi.It should tell you in your manual.If you put it on the center stand it wont leak as much. Keep the pressure off the front end as much as possible. Maybe put some weight on your seat to raise the front wheel off the ground or something.
 
Cyg, glad that worked for you! Off the wall temp fix, huh? My old '73 CB-450 didn't have air forks and I actually rode it quite a while before breaking down and changing seals. IIRC the only reason I did the seals is because I changed the steering stem bearings from the 'loose balls' to caged rollers and had the forks off the bike.
 
those are the best kind in my opinon. hehe that was a good suggestion. I just wish I didnt spill the jars on the floor or at least was smart enough too let the air before I took out the drain screw. hehe.. I think I had more atf on me then the I put in the bike.

Now I have a method too change the seals and I do seem too collect more gs than yamah or hondas at this point.
 
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