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GS 1OOOS Carb Rebuild

Vmass

Vmass

Forum Sage
Past Site Supporter
Hi All,

I am in the middle of my first carb rebuild and am hoping for clear and simple answers so I can move forward!!

I followed the cv rebuild document and have everything loosely put back together, waiting for the adjustments.

Would someone be so kind to help me with the follwing information?

1) Float bowl height =

2) Air screw starting point=

3) Air jet= does this simply get seated?

4) Main Jet=does this simply get seated?

5) Pilot jet= does this simply get seated?

Anything else I should do prior to putting the bank back together?

Thank you!
 
Would someone be so kind to help me with the follwing information?

1) Float bowl height = The bowl can only go in one position, screwed tightly to the carb body. The float height, however, is adjustable. The measurement is from the lower part of the step on the float to the carb body, and should be 22.4 mm =/- 1.0 mm.

2) Air screw starting point= You don't have any "air screws". What you are calling "air screw" is actually the "idle MIXTURE adjustment screw". I start with them 3 full turns out. Others will suggest 2 or 2.5. Either way, you will need to tweak them for highest idle when the bike is warmed up. I just find that it starts easier the first time with the slightly richer mixtre provided by 3 turns.

3) Air jet= does this simply get seated? Yes, everything except the mixture screw gets snugged down. (this is actually the "pilot air jet")

4) Main Jet=does this simply get seated? Yes, everything except the mixture screw gets snugged down.

5) Pilot jet= does this simply get seated? Yes, everything except the mixture screw gets snugged down. (this is actually the "pilot fuel jet")(do you see a pattern here?)

Anything else I should do prior to putting the bank back together? Not necessarily before putting the carbs back together, but before putting them back on the bike, loosen the sync adjusters to do your bench sync. When you are done with the bench sync, do not tighten the locknuts with gorilla-torque. The outer ones are not too bad to loosen when on the bike, but that center one can be a real pain. Just snug it a bit so you can loosen it easily to do the vacuum sync. Snug it well after the vacuum sync.

.
 
When you "seat" all those parts remember there brass and its alloy so dont tighten, just bottom out with little pressure. Its a good idea to test the carbs first with a dummy fuel tank such as a old sauce bottle on the bench to save the hassle if any leaks show on the bench instead of the bike.
 
And don't forget to fit the throttle cable to the carbs before attaching them to the engine. It is almost impossible to fit this cable after the carbs are on the engine.
 
Suzuki_Don said:
And don't forget to fit the throttle cable to the carbs before attaching them to the engine. It is almost impossible to fit this cable after the carbs are on the engine.
Click to expand...

There is a trick with a screwdriver that makes it easier Don - impossible to explain and it does hurt your thumb (ouch) but it is easier.
 
@Bradley... Thanks for the link. I did see that chart but did not know which one to follow. 1980 GS1000S USA is not listed.

@Steve... Thank you very much for your simple and direct response to my questions. I am sure some other 1st time carb rebuilders will benefit from your response as much as I will.

@Suzuki Don... Thanks for the throttle cable tip... I will need as many trick as possible!

@Sharpy.... gotcha on the seating. Great thought to check for leaks on the bench. I didn't think that would be possible since it is vaccuum fed. Can you elaborate on the process?
 
Vmass said:
Great thought to check for leaks on the bench. I didn't think that would be possible since it is vaccuum fed. Can you elaborate on the process?
Click to expand...
The carbs are not "vacuum fed", they are "GRAVITY fed". The vacuum only turns on the petcock.

To do the leak check, just connect a fuel source to approximately the same height over the carbs as the stock gas tank.
Allow gas to flow, check for leaks.
shrug2.gif


.
 
Steve said:
The carbs are not "vacuum fed", they are "GRAVITY fed". The vacuum only turns on the petcock.

To do the leak check, just connect a fuel source to approximately the same height over the carbs as the stock gas tank.
Allow gas to flow, check for leaks.
shrug2.gif


.
Click to expand...

Yep, with that fuel source a handy "tank" is a old sauce bottle where you squirt the fuel into the hose trying to avoid overflow. you just need to fill everything to check on leaks. Carbs in a vice or upright should be obvious.
 
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