• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Gs 250 restoring to riding condition

  • Thread starter Thread starter 1980Gs250
  • Start date Start date
1

1980Gs250

Guest
So I picked up this gs250 for $200 on craigslist and I am in the process of getting it back to running condition. So far what I have noticed is that the starter button and kill switch neither one work, the gas tank thankfully had no rust in it. The guy I bought it from for some reason bypassed the starter button and kill switch with a toggle switch mounted near the gas tank. The front brake doesn't seem to be working the brake lever has no resistance on it like the cable might be broken or something.

I cleaned and redid the carburetors and cleaned the gas tank and replaced the fuel lines. That's all i got done so far because of this stupid weather. I will update this as I go along! :)
 
Front brake doesn't have a cable its all fluid so you may need to give them an overhaul they are a great bike!
 
Good find. Post up some pics. The front brake is pretty easy to bleed. Check the reservoir on the handlebar and see if there is fluid in it.

Not sure what to market is out there, but I just sold my 250 and made out like a burglar. There was a little bidding war between craigslisters. Small bikes are getting rare.
 
I dont understand what you mean by no cable? It has one like a bicycle coming out of it?
 
That's probably the speedo cable you're looking at. The line that goes from the caliper up to the master cylinder is a brake fluid line.
 
oh dear i hope this isnt something thats rigged somehow. There is no other line going into the handle. just the cable looking thing
 
1980Gs250 said:
oh dear i hope this isnt something thats rigged somehow. There is no other line going into the handle. just the cable looking thing
Click to expand...

Looking at your pic in your owner's thread I think I see a rectangular, screw-top master cylinder right next to the right-hand control. A cable coming out of the right hand control should be the throttle - there's definitely a hydraulic line going to your front brake caliper! The lever on the left (as you sit on the bike) is your clutch, which will be a cable. There should be resistance, but not a whole lot.
 
i get what you are saying now im sorry. was just a bit bewildered i am new to this. The clutch feels fine there is some resistance but its light and it shifts through gears fine thankfully.
 
so if the front brake feels spongy and not working i guess its time to go through the system. the back brake appears to be working well
 
It probably needs bled properly with fresh fluid. Did it on mine and it really made a difference. The old fluid was nasty.
 
Your rear brake should be mechanical drum so there's nothing to really get spongy there :p It's probably time to clean the caliper (usually no replacement parts required), rebuild the master with a new piston kit, and replace the brake line with a braided stainless hose. That's probably the original 32-year-old brake line on there...
 
i will get on that first thing if it ever stops raining sigh..... I will also post many pictures for all to see!.... its covered up and stored in my shed at the moment in this nasty weather
 
where does one fine a braided stainless line? I like this idea as i use the same on my cars and makes a good difference.

mike_of_bbg said:
Your rear brake should be mechanical drum so there's nothing to really get spongy there :p It's probably time to clean the caliper (usually no replacement parts required), rebuild the master with a new piston kit, and replace the brake line with a braided stainless hose. That's probably the original 32-year-old brake line on there...
Click to expand...
 
There are a few options for getting stainless brake lines:

1) Goodridge lines from Z1 Enterprises is a popular option. The price is reasonable and the quality reputation is good. You buy a line with threaded ends in the length you need and Banjo fittings for each end as appropriate.

http://www.z1enterprises.com/ShopBy...eel+Brake+Hose+&+Fittings&category=0102041201

2) Roll your own. I did this using Earl's parts. Not sure that it's any cheaper than the Goodridge route, but if done properly it should be just as reliable. Easier to re-size if you change your bars later too. A thread on the subject:

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=114521&highlight=stainless+brake+line

3) Some people have found eBay sellers that can make them lines. Searching the forums will probably turn up some good options. Most have been happy and it may be the cheapest option, too. rennsportautoparts is one seller I've seen mentioned, and looks like you can get your line for probably in the $40 range from them shipped with new banjo bolts and crush washers. You'd probably want to contact him with the end types you need and length, etc.
 
Stainless lines will definitely give you a firmer feel on the brake, and will be much less prone to water absorption like the more porous stock lines. Plus you won't ever wonder whether that 30-year-old line is going to burst the next time you get on the lever...
 
yeah i got to thinking about that line busting as well. I will get on that brake rebuild once i get it running. thanks for the links! plus stainless lines are so much nicer looking :)
 
Well, it's a cheap Chinese part but would probably work just fine. It's not a Suzuki master cylinder, but it is probably the right bore size, and it's sized for 7/8" handlebars. Has a threaded hole for the mirror. I have a non-Suzuki master cylinder that I bought from usa-motorcycles-inc, so here are a few things to think about:

1) You probably won't be able to find a rebuild kit for it when the time comes, so consider it to be "temporary" for a few years.

2) That uses a different thread pitch than the Suzuki MC for the banjo bolt. It's still 10mm and they appear to include the banjo bolt, but just for reference older Suzuki banjo bolts as on the GS are 10mm x 1.00 thread pitch, vs. 10mm x 1.25.

3) You'll have to adapt your brake light switch to work with that. Probably just cut off the wires very near the switch part and crimp/solder female blade terminal connectors to mate with theirs.
 
ok so look for suzuki part. I guess it would be easier to just rebuild it in that case. good time as any to learn i suppose haha
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top