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GS 300 ignition replacement

  • Thread starter Thread starter 78z1joe
  • Start date Start date
7

78z1joe

Guest
Hi, I hope someone can help....I have a 1982 GS 300 that has intermitant spark on the left coil.. Swapped coils both at 4 ohms...problem stays on the left coil. When I squeeze the ignitor, black box behind the left side cover, the engine will run on both cylinders, but not consistantly. Suzuki replacement ignitor is unavailable and ebay has one for over $220.....and the bike does not have mechanical advance but the ignitor does it. So I want to replace the total system. Any suggestions? Dyna? Boyer Bransen? thanks!
 
The old squeeze test eh? Nice work finding the problem (and not calling the ignitor a CDI).:D

Problem with finding a suitable replacement is because the ignitor has the advance built in. You would need a Dyna 2000 or similar, which is big bucks.

Can an advance unit from a GS250 be installed? If so, maybe you could use a Dyna S. Sorry, don't have any other suggestion other than maybe posting in the parts wanted forum.

Good luck.
 
Last edited:
Get the Dyna s kit, it eliminates the exciter box and runs well. Just put one on my GS550 and runs well.
 
Uh...yea....squeeze test...Dyna has a total system for the 400s.....I will contact them and see what they suggest....then to find a mechanical advance from a 250 or 400? More fun. Thanks for the help.
 
The advance mechanism is definitely a go with the Dyna setup, have a search for hjacobmiller's thread where he has done the same with his 300.
 
tear the ignitor apart and use a heat gun or blow drier to gently remove the potting material. re -solder all of the joints on the pc.

worst that can happen is you'll fix it and save a couple hundred bucks?
I've successfully done this on a GN400 and a couple others over the years..:)
 
ThrottleBack said:
ok i'll ask.....wth is the squeeze test? lol
Click to expand...

It's literally exactly how it sounds... grab the ignitor (or whatever electric circuit it is you're testing), and give it a good squeeze while it's doing whatever it's supposed to do.

The theory is that this will make a dry joint make proper contact and if that is what's wrong, the squeeze test will make it function correctly.

Of course it's not a fool proof test but it's pretty effective for a quick and dirty test...
 
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