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GS 450L oil leak blues.

  • Thread starter Thread starter DacMaddy
  • Start date Start date
Most choose alpha-sports or boulevard suzuki. They seem to have good prices and good service.
 
Most choose alpha-sports or boulevard suzuki. They seem to have good prices and good service.
What do you get at Alpha Sports that has a good price? :eek:

Just for a comparison, let's look at the two items that he started with, a headlight and a valve cover gasket for his '82 450L.

................Headlight....Gasket
Alpha ........ 129.47 ......29.68
Bandit ....... 100.60...... 24.73 (They claim retail prices of 133.33 and 27.20.)
Boulevard..... 90.92 ......18.55 (They claim retail prices of 121.21 and 24.73.)
G&S ............89.47 .......18.25 (They claim retail prices of 121.21 and 24.73.)

The list could go on, but I think my point is made. :-\\\


.
 
Holy crapola, these prices are WAY cheaper! Thanks man :D

So I've now realized my chain needs its first adjustment... Just two quick questions. Does anyone know offhand the size of the rear axle nut I need to loosen? And secondly, am I able to do this just on the side stand? Since the bike has been lowered it is nigh impossible to get it on the center stand without getting a hernia :p
 
I believe it's 22mm. Or 21....

While it's possible to get lucky doing it on the side stand, it really should have the rear end off the ground. Try rolling the back tire onto a 2 by 4 or something to get the centerstand higher, and attempt to put the center stand down from there.
 
It is a 22 and you really need all the weight off the back wheel. What about a floor jack with a 2x4 or similar under the engine/frame?
 
Ok, well I am in the process of adjusting my chain, but I've hit another road block. Since my bike has been lowered, the exhaust is right in the way of the axle nut. Upon inspection, there seems to be some screws halfway down the pipe, do those take that pipe off? To get a screwdriver in there I have to take the foot peg off, so it seems to be a huge pain in the butt. I guess in the future I'll be getting a different exhaust that doesn't get in the way! Does anyone have any ingenious way to get around this ? I seem to be able to get a regular box in there instead of a ratchet, but I won't be able to torque it down to spec.
 
Can you unbolt the upper shock mounts to have the entire swingarm out of the way?

When I did the exhaust on my 450, I purposely cut the stock mufflers off and had slightly shorter universal ones welded back on. They are JUST short enough for that reason - to not block the rear axle.
 
I'm not really sure how the swingarm works; if I unbolt the top mounts would the wheel just fall to the ground? Would it affect the chain adjustment not having the shocks mounted?
 
I believe it will drop all the way to the ground (assuming you're on the center stand). You will have to either unbolt the shocks and have the swingarm drop, or unbolt the exhaust at the passenger peg mounts & header mounts. You shouldn't have to actually take the exhaust off, just loose enough for it to sag below the rear axle.

Personally, I'd go for the shock mounts.
 
Alright thanks for the help man! I will let you know how it goes! Wish me luck :p
 
I'm not really sure how the swingarm works; if I unbolt the top mounts would the wheel just fall to the ground? Would it affect the chain adjustment not having the shocks mounted?
The swingarm ... well ... swings.
icon_shrug.gif


It forms one leg of a triangle that keeps the rear wheel located. The frame is a second leg, the shocks are the third leg. Because the shocks can move, the swing arm can swing, allowing just the wheel to move, not the whole bike.

By removing the shocks (either end, whichever is more convenient), the swingarm will allow the wheel to drop to the ground. It will be easier to do that if you lift a bit on the wheel to remove the load from the mounts. That will allow the shocks to slide right off, then lower the wheel in a controlled manner.

Yes, it will greatly affect the chain tension, but you will not be riding the bike in that condition, so it won't really matter. When you lift the wheel back up to put the shocks back in place, the chain will be right where it was when you started. Of course, if you remove the axle or loosen the chain adjusters, your wheel alignment and/or chain tension can be different.

.
 
Ahh, that cleared up quite a bit, thanks! So if I used that method I'd have to adjust the chain, then remount the shocks, and if it's wrong redo that process over and over? I guess just taking the exhaust off would be easier. Are the two pipes connected or can I loosen just the right side?
 
That depends on just what you are trying to do.

If you are wanting to remove the wheel to change a tire, loosen the chain adjusters, loosen the axle nut, pull the shocks. You can then pull the axle out and roll the wheel out.

If you are simply wanting to adjust the chain, there is no need to remove the shocks, just loosen the axle and adjusters and do your thing.

.
 
Ah I'm just trying to adjust the chain, but the problem is my lowered bike won't allow me to reach the axle nut with a ratcheting wrench because the exhaust can is in the way.
 
Ah I'm just trying to adjust the chain, but the problem is my lowered bike won't allow me to reach the axle nut with a ratcheting wrench because the exhaust can is in the way.

That's why they invented spanners?:cool:
 
Do they make spanners that measure torque? Or is there another way to measure torque other then a torque wrench?
 
If you need to measure torque get a crowsfoot. You shouldn't have to torque the axle nut though. The Suzuki tool kit that comes with the bike has a nice axle nut spanner (and no torque wrench).
 
Oh ok I was just worried because the Clymer manual gave specific torque ratings for that but. Thanks for the help! :-)
 
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