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GS 550L Gets a make over

  • Thread starter Thread starter Redneck
  • Start date Start date
R

Redneck

Guest
Well, it is time to start the make over. The bike ran great all summer had a slight electrical problem that I will address later. But the worse problem was that the base gasket developed a leak. So in order to change it of course I have to tear down the whole engine. I would have started sooner but money was not easy to come by with the Holidays and all. Anyway I am now ready I think, just put a big order in to cyclepartsnation, hopefully it will be here soon. This is what i ordered:

4 of 09280-28003 - O RING @ $1.20ea.

1 of 11241-47081-H17 - GASKET (11241-47081) @ $9.07ea.

4 of 09280-61001 - O RING @ $2.81ea.

2 of 09280-21005 - O RING @ $1.93ea.

2 of 04211-13189 - PIN (09206-13001) @ $1.28ea.

1 of 11141-47086-H17 - GASKET (11141-47084) @ $91.78ea.

2 of 11186-45001 - SEPARATOR, OIL NO.1 34x11 (11186-45000) @ $2.85ea.

2 of 11187-45001 - SEPARATOR, OIL NO.2 35x68 (11187-45000) @ $2.85ea.

1 of 11177-47001-H17 - GASKET (11177-47001) @ $6.36ea.

1 of 11173-47004-H17 - GASKET, CYLINDER HEAD COVER (11173-47001) @ $16.01ea.

2 of 09206-08001 - PIN @ $1.01ea.

1 of 47211-47200 - COVER, FRAME LH (47211-47200-05L) @ $48.78ea.

1 of 11483-47000-H17 - GASKET (11483-47000) @ $6.99ea.

1 of 11482-47000-H17 - GASKET (11482-47000) @ $11.26ea.

1 of 11491-47000 - GASKET @ $2.01ea.

4 of 14181-37D00 - GASKET (14181-03310) @ $2.88ea.

Also a stainless steel bolt kit from Z1 Enterprises.

Yeah i went ahead and paid the bucks to get the left hand cover. I am tired of chasing around for one so I just shelled out the $50. Anyway I am also giving the bike an original paint job. Not using stock colors at all. Going to be a bright metallic green front fender, gas tank, side covers, and rear fender. the frame and engine are going to be black either semi-gloss or gloss not sure yet. I am also going to paint the rims black. I am either going to rebuild the carbs myself or send them off to be rebuilt, for they to have developed a slight leak also. So needless to say its going to be quite a project for me and hopefully I will learn a lot as I go. I will make sure to provide many pictures along the way.

Paul
 
Well parts are suppose to be here today. Looking forward to that. I was going to take my Gas tank in last night use the wet blaster and then prime it up, I ended up building a gingerbread house instead. :oops: My six year old daughter has been on me to build it since Christmas and we have managed not to get it done for one reason or another but that is now out of the way. Hopefully weather will not prevent me from getting in and doing it tonight. If it looks like snow I may just get some paint stripper and use that method. My question is can I use the paint stripper in a smallish two car garage with the doors shut, btw the furnace is located in my garage also. Just thought I would see if anyone had any experience with this situation.

Paul
 
Okay here she is as you last saw her.
IMG00872.jpg


I needed to add that so we have a starting point and besides everyone likes pictures.

Here is the front fender painted in the color the tank and side covers will be

DSC_0008.jpg


Here is the tank getting ready for the 5N5 stripper from True Value.

DSC_0004.jpg





http://s753.photobucket.com/albums/xx180/rpaul_warren/?action=view&current=IMG00872.jpg
 
Okay i have coated the tank with 5N5 stripper about three times and I barely have the top scraped off. I am using a 10" razor blade scraper and some 60 grit sandpaper. I am so going to hit this thing with a media blaster tomorrow night. This is taking forever and not to mention my shoulder is sore from scaping and sanding.

Paul
 
Well Ed was correct even with the good base coat of paint, as evident by its resistance to being removed. I did find some rust trails under the paint. I will clean those all up tonight hopefully after media blasting. Then will hit it with a couple coats of filler primer and finally a primer sealer. I plan on dry sanding it with 1500 and 2000 grit paper. Do I need to wet sand it or will dry sanding be good with those grits? IF so going to have to find a sink in the area I will be working. Not sure if there is one. I can make something work. If that sounds confusing I plan on taking it in to work and using their flame spray booth to prime the tank after I media blast it. I don't know if there is a sink down there or not. I will check that out this afternoon before I leave work.
 
Love a good media blaster

Love a good media blaster

Well you know how the saying goes "Third time is a charm." I came into back to my work place tonight to use the blast booth and the first two I came upon were broke down. My third choice the guy who normally leaves his key in the desk...didn't. I was told about another one in a different bay of the building. I went down there and it is not working but, as i was asking someone about it they redirected me to a different building and they have a blast booth that not only worked but rocked. It stripped the remaining paint off with the greatest of ease. Now I am finishing up the primer. I have put three coats of filler primer on and sanded each with 1500 grit. I just put my first coat of sealer on and will sand it then put another coat on. I then plan on letting it set up on the shelf for a couple of weeks to cure real good then I will put on the Paint. I am very pleased right now because as Ed mentioned I would probably find some rust under the paint and I did. Well lets just say there is no rust to speak of now. I will however have to flush my tank out very well because I know I got some media grit inside there. It tore the duct tape i was using right off the openings. I will post pictures after I get back home.
 
Here is a pic of the tank after it was blasted and primed. I would have taken some of the progress to primer but cameras were not allowed where I was.

Here is the tank sitting on the bike.
DSC_0011.jpg


And here is where I set the fender up on the front tire to get a visual
DSC_0014.jpg


yeah yeah I know I need to clean up a little. You can see where the oil is still leaking.

I do have one question. I tried a wet blaster on it first and there is a little water in the tank what is the best way to get it out and to keep the tank rust free while the primer cures. I plan on getting some alcohol and putting it in the tank, would this help?
 
Started pulling things off today. First was the battery box.

DSC_0022.jpg


has a little rust will blast and paint that

DSC_0023.jpg


Then I started taking off the electronics to get the air box out.
the regulator looks like someone ground off some fins.

DSC_0017.jpg


Then moved on to the other side and pulled the rest.
Is this bellmouth covering normal

DSC_0058.jpg


Forgive the blurr but that is the orange and white wire going to the regulator it has burnt through the insulation. Wonder if that is where my battery is draining too.

DSC_0044.jpg


Well then it was the air box next. I now know what the true reason peeps go to Pods. It was a royal pain in the A@@. I am not looking forward to trying to get that and the carbuerator back in when it is done.

DSC_0051.jpg


Got a little cleaning to do.

DSC_0053.jpg


Anyway, my next thing is to start getting ready to pull the engine. Till next time.
 
Last edited:
I found that by moving the rear fender mud flap thingie back, you can actually drop the air box down through the bottom of the bike. Actually fits in and out real easy that way. Course it means having the rear wheel out too but hey...

Great pictures by the way. I cleaned up some of the same areas on my bike and wish I had taken some.
 
As I kept reading your posts I wondered why they was not many other memebers chiming in.. then I checked the dates of your posts. DANG you work fast!.
Did you get the tank dried out? Alcohol will help.
Interested in what you have planned. Thanks for sharing!
 
Looks good! I can't wait to see it all shiny and painted. You mentioned the front fender will be green but what about the back one? Are you gonna respray the frame while the engine is out? Keep up the good work!
 
Thanks all for the comments.

Cowboy I still would have had to get the front part of the air box out it was the reason i was having issues. they bolt those boxes in backwards you ask my opinion. the screws that seperate the airbox from the intake path that attaches to the carbs come in from the front where youcant get at them instead of from the air box where all you have to do is pull the filter and get to them.

No i did not get alcohol in tank hoping to do that tuesday...went broke...lol.

plan on painting the rear fender to match front.....just haven't yet...

called a blast company who also powder coats and asked them about the frame... $75 to blast and $200 to powder coat....not sure if I am just going to have them blast it and then rattle can the frame after that... will have too see...i don't feel like wire wheeling the thing that long.

Hopefully will have more pics and progress later this week


Paul
 
Thanks for the info Redneck but I'll be real interested to seeing some more before pictures if you have them. I just use a screwdriver bit in a socket to get at the screws for the carb side of the airbox and then remove the carbs. I also had to remove the solenoid and fuse block but they came off anyway in order to repaint the box and remove the old mounts for new new relay and fuse block.

My R/R is actually bolted to the side of the battery box so I don't have to remove it for any reason unless I pull that out. I probably should since I'm repainting everything else. Hmmm, another thing to add to my list :(; thanks:D.
 
My R/R was attached to my battery case also but I pulled it in order to paint it too. I plan on pulling everything that is metal and cleaning it up and painting it. Hopefully after this winter I won't have to do much to the bike for a couple years, while I play with other projects.

Did not think of using a ratchet and screwdriver tip... don't know why i have done it before... oh well.. I will think about it when I go to reinstall.

As I pulled the carbs the other day I did remember one thing i forgot to order when I got all the parts to rebuild the engine. I forgot to order all the parts to rebuild the Carbs....oh brother. Well looks like its back to looking for parts.... need to find Mr. O-rings link on here, and see if he has the stuff for my bike yet. Last time i looked he didn't. Hopefully will get some more progress this weekend. I get home so late right now that I don't have time to work on it at night, and spend time with the family. Though there is that little itch that says just slide on down to the garage.... no no must play teaparty with the little one. :D
 
Okay Cowboy these are re enactment photos for you. I put the breathing tube and air box back in and will try to explain what i was talking about.

This is the breathing tube in without airbox so you can see how frame goes around it.
DSC_0071.jpg


Okay now here is the box up next to it.
DSC_0064.jpg

Now if you look at it the screws came in from the front from the engine side. Was not a lot of room to get a screwdriver in there easily. I pulled the carbs first and then got a long shanked screwdriver in there.

I pulled various other parts off today. The rear fender, tail light, blinkers, various wiring parts. Then i found this and have not yet consulted the book to find out what it is.

DSC_0080.jpg


Went to pull off the wires and low and behold...
DSC_0089.jpg


i ended up pulling out the guts. Luckily i found out it snaps in and out but I also realized it has been getting dirt and apparantly has been wet inside at one time.

Here is a picture of how far I got today
DSC_0093.jpg

Parts bagged up as they get pulled
DSC_0090.jpg

and then up on the shelf
DSC_0097.jpg

Well that is it for now.
 
Thanks Redneck, we have the same airbox and breathing tube setup. Although it is tight, I haven't experienced the issues you had with getting them out. But maybe I was just a little luckier since I was already pulling my carbs off anyway to take some measurements.

Good luck on the rest of the project. I hope to start putting my things back on next weekend as long as the weather holds up.
 
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