S
SVSooke
Guest
Putting the spring on the stand then getting the bolts to line up is way easier.Tryin to pull them one with a bolted stand is a PITA.Done both ways recently.
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R
Redneck
Guest
Been a while
Been a while
Well My Sword Fighting has taken over as the hobby of choice recently, that and the fact that I did not have to expend money to start fighting again.
I did get the center stand mounted. Took it back apart hooked up the spring and then installed the mount. Much easier that way.
Got the engine installed. Not do much difficulty their.
Started to install the exhaust pipe. Here is where the problem arose. As I was installing the left hand exhaust pipes, one of the bolts snapped. I had applied anti-sieze prior to installing. I did not use much more than wrist strength to install and whamo it breaks. Well I was using the original bolts because they were not in too bad of a shape. Boy was I wrong. After the bolt snapped I did a lot of swearing, ****ing and griping... I realized I had well over a 1/4" of bolt sticking out. Cool no prob put a the vice grips on and twist it back out. No. Did not happen. The bolt began to disentigrate under the vice grips. So I let it sit for a couple weeks thinking how I want to go bout this. I finally found an old piece of 1/8" Steel plate 1' by 2" huh why dont i try and weld this to the end of the bolt. sounds like a great idea. nope. I had good penetration but bolt popped right off the plate. I am currently debating whether to drill it out with a 7mm drill bit and then taking a 8 mm tap and trying to run it through that way. I am hesitant to use an easy out because of the issues that could cause if it were to break. But that is where my old girl stand right now.
Been a while
Well My Sword Fighting has taken over as the hobby of choice recently, that and the fact that I did not have to expend money to start fighting again.
I did get the center stand mounted. Took it back apart hooked up the spring and then installed the mount. Much easier that way.
Got the engine installed. Not do much difficulty their.
Started to install the exhaust pipe. Here is where the problem arose. As I was installing the left hand exhaust pipes, one of the bolts snapped. I had applied anti-sieze prior to installing. I did not use much more than wrist strength to install and whamo it breaks. Well I was using the original bolts because they were not in too bad of a shape. Boy was I wrong. After the bolt snapped I did a lot of swearing, ****ing and griping... I realized I had well over a 1/4" of bolt sticking out. Cool no prob put a the vice grips on and twist it back out. No. Did not happen. The bolt began to disentigrate under the vice grips. So I let it sit for a couple weeks thinking how I want to go bout this. I finally found an old piece of 1/8" Steel plate 1' by 2" huh why dont i try and weld this to the end of the bolt. sounds like a great idea. nope. I had good penetration but bolt popped right off the plate. I am currently debating whether to drill it out with a 7mm drill bit and then taking a 8 mm tap and trying to run it through that way. I am hesitant to use an easy out because of the issues that could cause if it were to break. But that is where my old girl stand right now.
How much is still sticking out? Is it possible to spray some more PB in there and grab it to pull out? I'm sure it will tear up on you but it might be enough to get it out???
F
Flyboy
Guest
Hey Paul, good to see you back on the board, it's been a while.
Sorry to hear that it is with such strife, maybe try a bit of heat around it, to open up the hole, nothing to loose.
If not, I guess you are forced to drill, but I agree with you, whatever you do, please stay away from the eezi outs, if it breaks, you are in for more heartache than you want to know.
What you want to do with the plate is drill a hole in it so the bolt can go through the plate, then run a weld on both sides, if you get a decent weld, it aint coming off for love or money, guaranteed.
Sorry to hear that it is with such strife, maybe try a bit of heat around it, to open up the hole, nothing to loose.
If not, I guess you are forced to drill, but I agree with you, whatever you do, please stay away from the eezi outs, if it breaks, you are in for more heartache than you want to know.
What you want to do with the plate is drill a hole in it so the bolt can go through the plate, then run a weld on both sides, if you get a decent weld, it aint coming off for love or money, guaranteed.
H
Hoosier Daddy
Guest
Flyboy is on it, drill the hole in your plate for the bolt to pass through then weld...
On another note, I got a pair of Channel locks that are specially shaped to grip a round item, I've always call them "parrot jaws", don't know if that's the real term but Google liked it.
See how the top is arched, the bottom matches it's curve. These things GRIP! You really don't have to squeeze them hard as the force of your hand on the top lever seems to tightem them on the bolt. Naturally you would flip them over from what is shown to loosen something, but you get the idea.
Much better than vice grips and come in an assortment of sizes.
On another note, I got a pair of Channel locks that are specially shaped to grip a round item, I've always call them "parrot jaws", don't know if that's the real term but Google liked it.
See how the top is arched, the bottom matches it's curve. These things GRIP! You really don't have to squeeze them hard as the force of your hand on the top lever seems to tightem them on the bolt. Naturally you would flip them over from what is shown to loosen something, but you get the idea.
Much better than vice grips and come in an assortment of sizes.
R
Redneck
Guest
Thanks guys for your responses. I have not tried the PB simply because I had anti-sieze on the bolt did not think PB would help in that case but it cant hurt to try. I will break out the cobalt bit and put a hole in that plate and see what happens. Hoosier I am certainly going to look into getting one of those wonder if Home Depot has it.
Paul
Paul
M
mike-s
Guest
try spraying "Loctite? Freeze & Release" on the stub of the bolt to help break it free. I've used it for head studs that have snapped off and that were near impossible to remove. Another thing to think about is if you use easy-outs, you should use the largest possible one that you can fit in the space that the bolt provides without getting into the threaded area/host materials.
Also with easy-outs i've found the square ones with the tangs that you lightly tap into the drilled hole much more effective than the reverse-threaded ones others have used / mentioned here.
Also with easy-outs i've found the square ones with the tangs that you lightly tap into the drilled hole much more effective than the reverse-threaded ones others have used / mentioned here.
E
Etcheberri
Guest
i really like your color scheme, black and green looks really nice so far,
can t wait to see more, you are doing a very nice job mister!
can t wait to see more, you are doing a very nice job mister!
R
Redneck
Guest
From the Blackest Depths of Moria....
From the Blackest Depths of Moria....
Well life sucked me down into a non motorcycle working world for a quite a long time. Been doing a lot of sword fighting and training, spent a lot of time on odd shifts and the Honey Dew list of things around the house. But I am back and going to try and move on with this project. I will be Transferring back down to Jacksonville Florida in May and I would like this to be my commuter vehicle, so it now has the priority again. The broken exhaust bolt continues to haunt me. I picked up the pliers Hoosier recommended. By the way could not find them in any brick and mortar store after a couple months of looking so finally just had to order them from the internet.
Put on some PB Blaster and crack the rest of the bolt snaps off when I put the nut "buster" pliers on. Well at least it did not just eat away at the metal this time. So here I am again.
Question is this. I have the head off the other engine. Can I swap the valves from the head #1 with the broken bolt and put them in the head #2 or should I just take head #1 to the machine shop and have him drill out the broken bolt? I have picked up an 8mm tap and helicoil to fix the hole after he drills it out. I believe I am going to work on getting the wiring and other items going those I can do with little trouble. Need to pick up a solder gun and some heat shrink and a lot of wire. Believe I will end up replacing a lot of the wiring. Well have to go running around town. Chao.
Paul
From the Blackest Depths of Moria....
Well life sucked me down into a non motorcycle working world for a quite a long time. Been doing a lot of sword fighting and training, spent a lot of time on odd shifts and the Honey Dew list of things around the house. But I am back and going to try and move on with this project. I will be Transferring back down to Jacksonville Florida in May and I would like this to be my commuter vehicle, so it now has the priority again. The broken exhaust bolt continues to haunt me. I picked up the pliers Hoosier recommended. By the way could not find them in any brick and mortar store after a couple months of looking so finally just had to order them from the internet.
Put on some PB Blaster and crack the rest of the bolt snaps off when I put the nut "buster" pliers on. Well at least it did not just eat away at the metal this time. So here I am again.
Question is this. I have the head off the other engine. Can I swap the valves from the head #1 with the broken bolt and put them in the head #2 or should I just take head #1 to the machine shop and have him drill out the broken bolt? I have picked up an 8mm tap and helicoil to fix the hole after he drills it out. I believe I am going to work on getting the wiring and other items going those I can do with little trouble. Need to pick up a solder gun and some heat shrink and a lot of wire. Believe I will end up replacing a lot of the wiring. Well have to go running around town. Chao.
Paul
H
Hoosier Daddy
Guest
BUMMER!
I'd take head #1 to a machine shop and get a quote before parting it out for head #2... you ain't the first guy to have this problem. You may be pleasently surprised.
Those pliers do grip well though don't they.
I'd take head #1 to a machine shop and get a quote before parting it out for head #2... you ain't the first guy to have this problem. You may be pleasently surprised.
Those pliers do grip well though don't they.
F
Flyboy
Guest
Nice to see you back Paul, we missed you.
So how come you have not been posting some of your dueling and sword fighting on the off topic forum....we want to see...
Bugger about the exhaust bolt, before stripping heads down, I would get a price to just get the thing drilled out and a helicoil fitted, as HD said, you may be surprised.
Keep the updates coming.
So how come you have not been posting some of your dueling and sword fighting on the off topic forum....we want to see...
Bugger about the exhaust bolt, before stripping heads down, I would get a price to just get the thing drilled out and a helicoil fitted, as HD said, you may be surprised.
Keep the updates coming.
G
Guest
Guest
That's a bugger Paul, but again, very nice to see you posting again, I wondered where you'd been! Welcome back to the world of the GS
+1 on the previous suggestions...
I was a little worried about the price of getting my wheel bearings out while getting my tyres fitted but the guy charged me all of $20... I don't know how labour charges work in the US but I can't see it being too different to that, it's only one bolt after all.
You may find they just use a left hand thread drill which might even get it out by drilling alone...
+1 on the previous suggestions...
I was a little worried about the price of getting my wheel bearings out while getting my tyres fitted but the guy charged me all of $20... I don't know how labour charges work in the US but I can't see it being too different to that, it's only one bolt after all.
You may find they just use a left hand thread drill which might even get it out by drilling alone...
R
Redneck
Guest
Okay posted a Youtube video of one of our SCA practices in the Off Topic forum...
I am going to call Mr. Christy on Monday and see what he will charge me to drill out that bolt.
I am going to try and take a look at the wiring tonight or tomorrow and try and decide what I want to do there. Suzuki wiring just does not seem that efficient.
Need to get a quote on how much it will cost to PC the handle bars and Sissy bar and that will be the last bit of painting I need to do.
I am also looking for some slicker looking controls to put on if not then I will clean up the old ones and put them back on.
New Shims for the valves, tune the carbs and a new battery like ColoradoCj's and I will be good to go..
List seems short but it looks expensive..lol.
Paul
I am going to call Mr. Christy on Monday and see what he will charge me to drill out that bolt.
I am going to try and take a look at the wiring tonight or tomorrow and try and decide what I want to do there. Suzuki wiring just does not seem that efficient.
Need to get a quote on how much it will cost to PC the handle bars and Sissy bar and that will be the last bit of painting I need to do.
I am also looking for some slicker looking controls to put on if not then I will clean up the old ones and put them back on.
New Shims for the valves, tune the carbs and a new battery like ColoradoCj's and I will be good to go..
List seems short but it looks expensive..lol.
Paul
G
Guest
Guest
Hahaha yes some of those things can get expensive!
For the slicker controls, give Mikes XS a go, he has some nice looking stuff on there. Can be a bit pricey though...
For the slicker controls, give Mikes XS a go, he has some nice looking stuff on there. Can be a bit pricey though...
R
Redneck
Guest
Well i got hold of my local machine shop and it is going to cost $45 to remove the bolt. Not terribly bad but with the holidays upon us I don't think that is going to happen till after the new year and a new pay check. Holidays have also kept me from my revamping of the electrical schematics hoping to have some time before Christmas to start on it since I finished the last of the shopping last night. Woot Woot. Bonus time, have a fellow Chief who just got stationed here on base with me who rebuilds the Harley Monsters and has been gracious enough to offer his support in this rebuild project so I might actually get some progress going in the new year. Thats all for now.
Paul
Paul
H
Hoosier Daddy
Guest
That's great! New freinds like that are hard to find, plus they usually work for beer.
G
Guest
Guest
Awesome, that is good news indeed! You never know Paul, you could be ridin' her next year
R
Redneck
Guest
I am hoping to have her running before May. I move back down to Jacksonville, Florida and it is going to be about a 30-45 minute ride to work. Would rather do that on the bike than in the Dodge Dakota and her gas guzzling V-8. We will see. Hopefully income tax time will be kind to me.
Paul
Paul
G
Guest
Guest
Hopefully so! That would definitely make a huge difference to the hip pocket...
Does that take you back to year round riding in Florida too? You'll also be much closer to Boulevard Suzuki
R
Redneck
Guest
Yes it will especially after spending nearly four years in Maine, Florida winters will be no problem to ride in.
Well got in the garage last night. Wanted to go for some more low profile controls but have decided against it due to budget restraints. So I am cleaning all the contacts on the Run Stop switch and Start pushbutton and I notice how faded the orange plastic is. Don't like that much. So I taped of the off/run switch and I painted it the same green as the bike, and I went ahead and did the same to the start button. I will post picks eventually when I get them back together. I am going to let them sit over the furnace in the garage for a while to let the paint cure really well before I mess with em. Hopefully it will stick well enough to the plastic.
Also got a quote from the Powder Coat shop. To Sandblast all the chrome off the handle bars and sissy bar then powder coat both it will be a grand total of $150. Not terribly bad, but I also have been informed that my wife's Saturn needs two new front tires in order to pass inspection. $300 for that so my powder coating will have to wait. I am going to keep slowly plugging away at the electrics and hopefully get the bike over to my HD builders house so we can get the mechanicals finished.
Well to all the GSers out there Happy Holidays may they all be blessed.
Paul
Well got in the garage last night. Wanted to go for some more low profile controls but have decided against it due to budget restraints. So I am cleaning all the contacts on the Run Stop switch and Start pushbutton and I notice how faded the orange plastic is. Don't like that much. So I taped of the off/run switch and I painted it the same green as the bike, and I went ahead and did the same to the start button. I will post picks eventually when I get them back together. I am going to let them sit over the furnace in the garage for a while to let the paint cure really well before I mess with em. Hopefully it will stick well enough to the plastic.
Also got a quote from the Powder Coat shop. To Sandblast all the chrome off the handle bars and sissy bar then powder coat both it will be a grand total of $150. Not terribly bad, but I also have been informed that my wife's Saturn needs two new front tires in order to pass inspection. $300 for that so my powder coating will have to wait. I am going to keep slowly plugging away at the electrics and hopefully get the bike over to my HD builders house so we can get the mechanicals finished.
Well to all the GSers out there Happy Holidays may they all be blessed.
Paul
