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GS 750 Engine mounting bolt removal.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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Hi Folks,
I am trying (without much success so far) to remove the long engine bolt that supports the front of the engine, I need to remove it to fit some engine crash bars I've just bought, are there any tricks or special methods for un-seizing this foot long beast?

Any help would be most appreciated.

Mike, in the dank rainy UK!
 
Engine mounting bolt

Engine mounting bolt

I'd say put a jack under the engine with a wood block on top. Raise jack/block until light pressure is pushing on the engine. Use a long 1/4'' socket extension or bolt narrower than the bolt in question. Tap away with hammer. If bolt or extension is too short to tap the bolt all the way out, use vise grips on the head of bolt to twist and pull. Carter
 
try some PB BLASTER penatrant found in Walmart or your local autoparts store :idea:
 
Thanks for the reply Carter, unfortunately I've already tried that method infact I put a 1/2 steel punch up against it and whacked it with a 3lb hammer still she didn't move, it really is seized solid in the engine lugs.

Regards,
Mike.
 
If I got you right, it's seized in the crankcase. Try putting a little heat to the lugs. Maybe it will expand enough to crack the corrosion. Use a socket to get it to turn while heating it. Once it turns, you should be able to hit it out.

I figure it's an early 80's 750, and there are no rubber engine mounts in the braces to the frame. This could change things.

Did you strip the nut threads? I did on mine (another story) and the threads were catching on the hole of the bracket keeping the bolt from going thru. (The nuts threads stayed in the bolts threads)

Good Luck. :)
 
Gs 750 engine bolt seized.

Gs 750 engine bolt seized.

Hi Mike,
You have it pretty well right, it is a 1979 GS and it is the front bolt through the crankcase. I will try your suggestion of heat as I have tried all else. Fortunately I'm not to bother if the old bolt threads get damaged as I have a new one to replace it,,that said, I take your point about the thread damage making it difficult to travel through the plate and case lugs so I will be careful. The new bolt has a nut both ends so if that gets seized up at any time, at least I only have to do one nut up after removing
the nut from the opposite end.

Thanks for your interest and help,
best regards,
Mike.

:) Can you believe it the sun is out at last, such a rare thing !!
 
:D Success at last, having applied a good amount of heat and oil the bolt finally moved, though not without the help of a real heavy whack with a 3lb hammer, the bolt was tuff going all the way out even though being repeatedly drowned in oil.
So now the new longer bolt is in and my new engine crash bars are on and the bike look a real treat. When I get a moment I'll perhaps put a few pic's on the site so you can see how she looks.

Thanks to all who offered their help and advice, it was very useful and much appreciated.

Mike, one very happy chappy!
 
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