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Gs 750t wont start?!

  • Thread starter Thread starter TravisGs750t
  • Start date Start date
T

TravisGs750t

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i have been messing around with an 83 gs750t but I cant get it to start.. it turns over, gets spark on all 4 and ive cleaned the carbs no difference wont do anything when i turn it over except it randomly farted/backfired once and a bit of smoke came out of the pipes but thats it and strangly enough i can spray as much carb cleaner and it doesn't do a thing starter seems like its turning the bike over a little slowly but the battery is fully charged maybe i need a new starter? also seems strange starter fluid didnt do ANYTHING drop a little gas down the spark plug holes....nothing. brand new spark plugs battery is good...
 
Just for the heck of it, feel free to check the Newbie Mistakes thread linked in my signature. It may trigger something.
 
lol fair enough. to be honest the airbox is off annnd the bike was seized a week ago so i guess i cant expect much lol.. bike hasn't ran for a year and a half according to previous owner and he thought the starter was bad so yeah i got it unseized and it seemed to have compression so i thought oh hey maybe the rings and pistons arent pooched (most likely wrong?) i may attempt to rebuild the airbox and see if that changes anything when that doesnt do anything i guess maybe scratch my head at the idea of finding a starter, adjusting valves, changing all this stator nonesense and ohh who knows rebuild the engine?:P oh boy where to start:P
 
TravisGs750t said:
i have been messing around with an 83 gs750t.....
Click to expand...

In your messing around did you (or PO) mix up plug wires ? sitting on bike, left coil fires 1 and 4 while right fires 2 and 3 (number 1 is under clutch hand). Head to that newbie mistake stuff ! Since it's been sitting and is likely to have been neglected maintenance wise, best to assume the worst. Oh, and be real skeptical of PO's statements!
 
yeah thats one of the first things i started wondering about. they are on right 1 4 left 2 3 right coil one question in the right side engine side cover theres a sleeve in the center when i was trying to unseize (on the wrong side i assume) one of the bolt pins broke in the process of taking it off to fix it i accidentaklly pulled out that sleeve that spins behind those two bolts...it only goes on two ways if it on backwards would that affect timing? also i had to unscrew the thing the points would normally be on if it was a motor with points.. so if shifts slightly does that affect timing?
 
Where are you? Maybe someone from the GSR is close enough to stop by and check things out with you.
 
Wish I could help, Pains me to see a T in distress, but I've never had any of my right side covers off.

Also I've never had any of those issues with my T's, although I can tell you unless you already had it running like a top it won't start or will be very hard to start without the airbox.

I used to have to wind on mine to get to fire up, now all my running T's start so easy they are running before i can let go of the start button.

I didn't read anything about a valve adjustment either, that needs to be checked first and foremost. Especially if you bought the bike cheap because it just kept getting harder and harder for the previous owner to get it started and keep it running.

Was it seized from sitting without having plugs in it? If so there will be a ring on the cylinder wall left from the rust from the piston rings. It shouldn't be a big deal but you will find you'll burn through oil a little faster, and will need rings sooner than if it had been stored with plugs in it.

My knowledge and experience about running a previously seized engine without addressing the reason it was seized (in the case of storage without plugs in) is based in automotive engines, but the principles should be the same.

I do wish you the best of luck though, you'll love your new GS when you get it squared away.
 
yes that is definitely "the Thing" as for why it seized not sure plugs were in when i got it but it was very low on oil so im guessing thats why... thanks for the encouragement! is there a link for adjusting the valves? and i saw i diagram explaining how to check the timing but i cant find it.. and im in Whitby Ontario if anybody lives close and wants to come have a look
 
and yes i did remove bolt #5 and extract the assembly #4....didnt really mean to and it was bugger to get back in without taking #3 off...
 
TravisGs750t said:
and yes i did remove bolt #5 and extract the assembly #4....didnt really mean to and it was bugger to get back in without taking #3 off...
Click to expand...
Hmmmm... when you reinstalled #4 did you make sure it engaged in locating pin on crankshaft?? This orients timing properly to crank. Best to just remove #3 plate entirely and check that #4 assembly is in right spot (on pin) on crankshaft- otherwise your timing is way off.
 
more black carbon than rust in cylinders...carbon/black grit if you look in intake (where carbs go on) old plugs where also black..maybe from runnning with low/no oil? and or with airbox removed? used deisel, seafoam , brake fluid, and a LITTLE marvel mystery LOL worked pretty good.. went from stuck to smooth pretty quick....drained it out and added motorcycle oil.
 
when i put #4 back in it seemed like there was only two ways you could get it in those two spring loaded clip things... ill have to look again but theres like two grooves you have to line up to slide into the spring loaded clips/clamps so you can put it in one way or spin it and put it in another..
 
when #4 popped out i took #3 off to get #4 back in but realized you could put it in two ways not sure if it maters but i was wonder if #3 shifted slightly if that would throw anything off as well..
 
The rust or corrosion or whatever was holding the engine stuck isn't really a big deal, and won't be what is keeping it from starting.

Sounds like a timing issue as tom has stated.

Keep at it though, go through the list of newbie mistakes and basscliffs list of things you need to do to your bike for a happy safe reliable GS.

It cost me around $1000 after i got my bike to go through that list, but since then I've gone through a couple sets of tires and crossed several provinces and it has been more reliable than even my riding buddy's brand new bike!

And just wait until you wind out that bike, it's going to be faster and more thrilling than you think it will be, I promise you that!

Gotta nail down that list first, tires, electrical, brakes, chain and sprockets, suspension etc. or winding it out won't be safe at all.
 
ok well i think i have it back together right but im going to open it up again and take another look and throw it on the other way just to be sure tomarrow and throw the air box on i dont actually have an filter for it but i have everything else i think and at least i will be able to seal the airbox. it just seems to be turning over a bit slow even when jumped with another battery but yeah engine feels smooth when i wrench it over almost tempted to do something silly like try to bump start it lol if the timing is good something is telling me its just not turning over fast enough...im hoping a new starter will fix that...
 
ill take a picture of the side cover so you guys can see what im talking about the sleave has two notches that fit into the spring loaded pins you can put it in two different ways making t the square paddle like thing on the sleeve point up or down just wonder what way it should be or if it matters since it still spins the same
 
Not turning over fast enough would be because of low voltage to the starter, either by a dying battery, or more likely in your case bad connections between the battery and the starter.

You should check your grounds and voltage drops using a multi meter, not only for the starter but you will need full voltage going to the coils as well, to get this beast started.

It's all on Basecliffs list. My bike ran and I rode it for a bit and thought it was great, but after I did all the stuff on that list it ran ten times better, started better, lights were brighter, it was just overall a much better bike.

This is the list I followed.

1) Seal the airbox and air filter with weatherstripping.

2) Ensure no intake leaks. Spraying WD-40 or water doesn't tell you much, since very small air leaks can cause problems even though they won't suck in enough WD-40 to make a difference. Replace your intake boot o-rings and boots if needed, and seriously consider spending the lousy $28 for new airbox/carb boots.

3) Ensure clean carbs with correct settings, new o-rings, and original OEM jets. No, not just squirted with something. I mean completely disassembled.

4) Check/adjust valve clearances (Manual calls for every 4,000 miles. This is not optional.)

5) Ensure healthy electrical system.

6) Seriously consider upgrading coils and plug wires.

7) Install new, stock NGK B8-ES plugs gapped to .031".

8 ) Fine-tune float height and idle mixture screw to ensure best off-idle transition.

9) Clean air filter and reinstall with only the lightest oil mist -- over-oiling and/or letting the filter get dirty is a common and critical mistake, and will make the bike run funny at low speeds and run rich. This may take a few tries.

10) Make sure the exhaust seals are sealing.

11) Ooh, much better now, huh? You're gonna need upgraded suspension - Progressive or better fork springs and shocks. Set suspension sag appropriately.

12) Upgrade brakes with new pads and stainless lines to deal with all that extra speed.

13) Install new petcock, since I'm going to head to the roof with a rifle if I have to read about yet another #2 plug fouling and failed hillbilly attempts to rebuild the petcock and/or deny there's a problem.

14) Oh yeah -- check compression somewhere in there to ensure the valves and rings are reasonably healthy.

15) You'll probably need new OEM clutch springs -- the clutches last forever, but the springs get tired after 20 years or so under pressure. E-Z and cheap.


Only ones I didn't do on my first 750T are 6 and 15, and I've got weak spark and once in awhile, slipping clutch issues which just go to show, I shouldn't have skipped those steps, but you still can if need be.
 
how does one go about checking the valves on a gs750t? better yet who wants to help me find the manual? :P
 
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