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GS carburater boots

  • Thread starter Thread starter Bufallobiff
  • Start date Start date
B

Bufallobiff

Guest
Got the air box off, carbs off and now, while it was at this stage, I thought I would replace the O rings and fasteners. Well, it looks as if the old impact and hammer method might not work with the limited space so I sprayed them down with PBblaster and decided to consult with the Gifted Ones as they seem to be at one with the aluminium. What say ye? I don't have a good feeling about this. Maybe a shorter imact driver?
 
Some options...

- Long extension on impact
- Use vice grips on outside screws to crack them loose. Remove screw and then spin entire boot to crack loose inner screw
- Impact driver bit, #3, in a small socket wrench. Press bit into screw as much as possbile and turn wrench to crack screw loose.

Hope this helps and good luck.
 
Really, really make sure the bit fits well into the screw head. This will decrease the chance of stripping the heads. Those screws are a real PITA.

I'm sure you already know, but replace them with SS allen heads.

good luck - pb blaster is your friend
 
They were different bolts but, when I took off my headers, I soaked them with PB Blaster when I left for work, when I got home and before I went to bed.........for 3 days. There was other things to work on to keep me busy and they came out like butter !!

+1 on the PB Blaster.:)
 
The Vise-grip method Ed advised worked best for me. Replaced them with SS allen heads as someone mentioned.

700oillines.jpg
 
Some other possibilities, no guarantees -
1) Kroil, kind of like PB Blaster on steroids, made by Kano industries - works at room temperature over time. It may help if you spray some on, then get the engine up to operating temperature a few times before you attempt the extraction.

2) Loctitefreezeandrelease, made by Loctite. Strategy is to get the part very cold using spray from an aerosol can, and there are also some lubricants in the spray. Kind of expensive.

3) CRCfreezeoff , made by CRC. This also freezes the bejabbers out of the part you're trying to extract. A little less expensive than Loctite, but still about $5 per rattlecan. Prepare yourself for one rattlecan per bolt, but it could be less than that.
 
i used a vise grip , and the stripped ones the vice grips wouldnt work on , i used a flat chisle type thing,on one side of the screw in the direction you "unloosen them" a couple wacs and there loose

if all else fails a propaine torch will heat the alum up enough to run them loose
orrrr!
if you must ,and are getting new boots--- heat the head up in a oven
this is great on exhaust studs,and othere studs--- a old trick for re sleeving,or big boring on dirt bikes
 
Give the screw heads a real whach from the side with a decent size hammer and something like a nail punch (something that won't bend and stays rigid). When the heads are moved slightly the underside of the screw head releases from the boot and the screws come loose.
As many on here will tell you once the head has been removed in those really stubborn cases with a dremel, the screw then undoes by hand. So it is not the thread stuck in the cylinder head it is the head of the screw stuck onto the boot surface. This trick has always worked for me, never failed.
 
Put new O rings on the carb boots today. Used new Allens instead of the Phillips I took out. Put all that crap back together. Awaiting valve shims so I can put the rest of the crap back on. Kinda anxious to see if this will make a difference. The O rings were flat and hard, I'm guessing they were originals since '81 kinda like the last valve adj. I know that I've got you on the edge of your seat so I'll keep you posted. For a tank (600 lbs. with full tank), this old scooter goes down the road pretty well.
 
Used this method


- Use vice grips on outside screws to crack them loose. Remove screw and then spin entire boot to crack loose inner screw
 
i ended up ripping my intake boot off completely by cutting it with an x-acto knife (guess that means i need to buy a new one, eh? :D) and used a dremel to cut off the head of the *ONE* phillips screw that didn't come out nicely.

otherwise, using a ratchet and #3 phillips head worked beautifully for me after hitting the screws with a little lube.
 
I used my air ratchet with the air tank at full. Sprayed it down and let that puppy pund on. Took the screws right off.:)
 
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