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GS1000 8 valve with 3000 rpm problem

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
G

Guest

Guest
Suzuki
Gs1000
60785km
Cylinder revision 0.5, new timing chain and exhaust guides
Carbs 6/19/2019 Cleaned Ultrasonic and fitted with new O-rings (did 250km)
7/9/2020 New Inlet rubbers (Cruzin Image)
Engine has stood still for a year since carb cleaning.
What I have been doing since Thursday 7/9/2020:
Places new pistons/rings
Placed topend with new gaskets.
Head has new exhaust valve guides
Valve clearance checked.
Compression test:6.8 - 6.8 - 6.9 - 6.7 bar 98 - 98 - 100 - 97 psi
Temp Exhaust after 1 min. 85-75-100-70 Celcius
Temp Exhaust after 4 minutes 130-120-150-100

Problem, Machine start @1200 rpm, but when the throttle is touched, the machine rises his rpm tp 3500rpm.
Little explosions in the intake at cil 1 en 2.
I thinke some vacu?m leaks but can't find any
synchronization is difficult
What can cause this?
 
Last edited:
Some possibilities:

Grip sticking inside switch box
Cable itself sticking
Cables routed wrong
Intake manifold oring leak
Clamps not sealing intakes tightly to carbs....stretched clamp syndrome
Air screws running too lean..turning them out will lean the mix and in richens it. Set bottom pilots at 7/8 out from lightly seated and leave them alone.
Adjusting VM carbs is via the side air screws. start at 1 1/2 to 2 turns out.
 
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And assuming non of the above..or adjustments have been made..the last thing will be the sync..a good syncs gonna change idle speed and idle knob adjustments as you start bringing cylinders into sync
 
chuck hahn said:
Some possibilities:

Air screws running too lean..turning them out will richen the mix and in leans it out. Swt bottom pilots at 7/8 out from lightly seated and leave them alone.
Adiusting VM carbs is via the side air screws. start at 1 1/2 to 2 turns out.
Click to expand...

Chuck, when did this change occur?

Opening the air screws leans the mixture
 
Peter, what year 1000?
Because, Chuck and I are assuming 78-79 with VM carbs
 
chuck hahn said:
Some possibilities:

Grip sticking inside switch box
Click to expand...
Could you explain what you mean (grip, Switch box)
Cable itself sticking
Click to expand...
Oil the cable?
Cables routed wrong
Click to expand...
! shall take some prictures
Intake manifold oring leak
Click to expand...
new one by Cruzinimage
Clamps not sealing intakes tightly to carbs....stretched clamp syndrome
Click to expand...
I did a brake flued test, cycle didn't react.
Air screws running too lean..turning them out will lean the mix and in richens it. Set bottom pilots at 7/8 out from lightly seated and leave them alone.
Click to expand...
7/8 is very low, books say a 1979 US 1 turn?
Adjusting VM carbs is via the side air screws. start at 1 1/2 to 2 turns out.
Click to expand...
Ok Thanks !
 
set up carbs as i described. book doesnt give a pilot screw setting ( bottom ones )..it says they are preadjusted do not adjust. Set side air screws at 1 1/2. This isnt my first rodeo. Youll be real close and a colortune will get each jug perfect.

Brake fluid test?? AHHHH you spray starter fluid on intakes to detect vacuum leaks.
GRIP... it rides in a groove inside the right switch housing. I once had a cable end that dragged and i had to file the flat sides of the furrel to free it up.
 
chuck hahn said:
set up carbs as i described. book doesnt give a pilot screw setting ( bottom ones )..it says they are preadjusted do not adjust.
Click to expand...
They have already been detached by the previous owner, you say 7/8 is that of 400 decimal degrees (= 1 turn around)
Set side air screws at 1 1/2. This isnt my first rodeo. Youll be real close and a colortune will get each jug perfect.
Click to expand...
Ok thanks, I've a colortune
Brake fluid test?? AHHHH you spray starter fluid on intakes to detect vacuum leaks.
GRIP... it rides in a groove inside the right switch housing. I once had a cable end that dragged and i had to file the flat sides of the furrel to free it up.
Click to expand...
Oh, now I get it, this is clear
 
Please don't spray brake fluid anywhere. Maybe something got lost in translation here. Not a good idea. It will destroy paint.
 
OK, do the Colortune adjustment
Then, regarding the sync, are you trying to adjust the height up, or down?
 
PeterBoomhut said:
What do you propose as a replacement?
Click to expand...

Break Fluid should only ever be put in your brake master cylinder reservoir, it's highly destructive to paint. I have read of people spraying WD-40 around carb boots while the engine is running to detect air leaks, if that's what you're trying to do. Maybe even just water sprayed in a mist. Not sure about that, though. Maybe others can recommend something else besides WD-40.
 
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