Gs1000 clutch perch wiring

[DaveR]

I'm going through the GS1000 project, cleaning terminals and connectors and trying to understand some 'fixes' from the last 30 years. Did the 79 GS1000 clutch perch have electrical wiring? This one does. The wiring diagram doesn't show it. I had 78 Honda CB750F that did and it allowed the starter to operate when in gear with the clutch lever pulled in. If I remember correctly.

I've looked at all the GS1000 pics saved in the file, at the FSM, the parts fiche and I'm still not sure.

For someone who knows, this is an easy one word reply.

Thanks, DaveR

 

[LarryC]

My '79 has such wiring.....or did lol. I took it apart- and lost the innerds. I wanted to bypass it anyway. Imagine having to pull in the clutch b4 the starter would engage! Even if its in neutral!

 

[DaveR]

Great! That helps solve some problems in the headlight. I'm going to bypass that feature too. And the signal buzzer.

 

[LarryC]

Trace the wires down into the headlight bucket. (I'm assuming- I have a Windjammer- no headlight- there is a leather bag instead.) The fittings are male/female. Just detach and plug the 2 from the wire harness together.

 

[Guest]

The '78 GS1000 didn't have this clutch pulled in safety switch. They came out in '79. It's weird to have a '78 and get used to starting the bike without the clutch lever pulled in and then get the almost identical bike but a '79 with this switch, took a little getting used to.
All it does is open your starter switch circuit until you pull in the clutch and completes the circuit.

 

[DaveR]

Larry - I tested the headlight male/female yellow/green terminals of the wires that come from the clutch perch. There is no continuity, so that explains the PO fix of a (one strand) jumper wire spliced into the y/g near the starter relay, alongside the main harness to splice in again close to the starter button. The original y/g inside the harness does have continuity. Since the clutch switch does not work and the plastic protector tube is trashed, I think I'll just remove all the switch guts and the 2 wires to the headlight.

Its fun getting to know how a new old bike works. The complete go through of all the systems is great winter entertainment and is almost as much fun as riding the finished product. This one will be especially sweet as it will be the largest hp bike ever for this 165lber. Thanks for tidbit of GS model history Sedelen.

 

[LarryC]

I haven't looked but I suspect the same system is used on the other side for the brake light switch. You may want to keep- or give away- the inner parts.

 

[Guest]

I haven't looked but I suspect the same system is used on the other side for the brake light switch. You may want to keep- or give away- the inner parts.

Yeah, it's pretty much the same set-up, most parts are interchangeable,
maybe with the exception of the cover with the screws holes in it, cut-out for the wiring on opposite sides. Inside that switch you'll find the smallest of springs and another small U piece. If you do take your brake light switch apart beware, those parts go everywhere.

 

[DaveR]

Well that just might work out perfectly. The front brake switch doesn't work on this bike. Got the harness and all connector terminals cleaned, lightly crimped, dielectric greased and reassembled today. As well as the battery holder and electrical units backplate repainted. Handlebar switches tomorrow.