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GS1000 Fork cap valve replacement

  • Thread starter Thread starter GS850bobber
  • Start date Start date
G

GS850bobber

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Hi all, I need some help finding some replacement valve assemblies for my GS1000 fork caps please.

My 850 forks were shot so I saw a set of used GS1000 forks and thought they would be an upgrade, but keeping the air in them is proving to be a nightmare.

I know I should do the right thing and go the progressive springs route but my budget is limited so that's not an option right now.

I need to replace the entire valves including housing, o-rings and valve inners, as I am sure this will solve the leak.

Photo attached, if anyone can point me in the direction of a new set I would be very grateful.


Many thanks

Ben
 
the housings themselves look in pretty good shape,as do the large o rings. try some PTFE tape around the threads as an extra precaution.
the outer threads on the top look bad but thats just for the dust cap to screw onto.
if you go to any tire shop they should be able to provide you with a new schraeder (sp.) valve to fit inside.
all should be good then,make sure there are no hairline cracks in the fork tops themselves and the oring is good,they should be easy to find locally if they need replacing
 
I agree, those don't look all that bad., but I don't agree with the suggestion to use Teflon tape on the threads. The threads don't do any of the sealing, that is handled by the o-ring.

If you insist on new units, they are $11.41 each at G&S Suzuki.

Chances are that you only need new inserts or maybe even just tighten the ones you have. You can get a pack of four new inserts from Auto Zone or Wal Mart for just a few bucks.

.
 
Thanks very much all, it's great to have so many experts willing to help, this GS was an impulse buy on ebay and it has gone from bad to worse, was supposed to be a fully functioning bike but the more I work on it the more i find things seriously wrong with it.

Worst of a long list of problems was a re-engineered frame, as the GS has had rear of frame cut back and now sports a single seat, all fine, except where previous owner had altered the frame having removed the passenger footpegs, meant it was physically impossible to remove and replace swing-arm, which needed doing as the offside lower shock mount was missing, in it's place was a hole drilled in swing-arm lug, and an ill-fitting nut and bolt!!! First time I've been burnt buying cars/bikes on ebay! Anyway back to the matter in hand.

The threads within the valve itself where the shraeder fastens aren't that great either, and the O-rings don't match, one is tapered, one has a circular outer profile, not sure which is right, so I probably will opt to replace them as a whole. Am hoping that will be an end to it and I can move onto the next cock-up! :)

Thanks all
 
I wouldn't worry about them not holding air - just so long as they are oil tight. As you hint, better springs (you mentioned Progressives) are your preferred option, just not in the budget at the moment. You can mimic new springs however by playing about with spacers and chopping bits off your current springs. There are quite a few threads on here on what various blokes came up with if that worked for them - try a forum search.

BTW - you're only 10 miles away from me. Give me a shout if you're buggered with anything.
 
Thanks all for the advice and offers of spares, very much appreciated. I've found a place in the Netherlands that can supply brand new assemblies so think that will be the safest option.

I'll be back on here in the near future when the next cock-up occurs, in the meantime if anyone needs any advice on how not to do stuff to their GS just shout, it's the least I can do.
 
New big orings, take a pipe cleaner and carb spray and clean out the fittings and new shrader valves..they are the same as in any car or bicycle inner tube. Put in the air and spray some windex around them, the cap where it meets the fork, and lift up the dust boots and spray some on the fork seals. Windex will bubble like soap water and if theres leams youll see them.
 
Should have said this too...once cleaned and new valves installed youll be able to see ifmits holding air or not. Also, I have had one fitting look perfect but there were hairline cracks in the threads and thats where they were leaking.
 
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