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GS1000 fork seal question

  • Thread starter Thread starter slip
  • Start date Start date
S

slip

Guest
I was looking at the procedure for changing the fork seals on Bikecliffs website. Can I seperate the lower tube from the upper one without that special tool???? And if yes, how????
 
Yes, several methods may work for you:
Try to loosen the bolt with the springs still in place, the spring pressure should keep it from turning.
Use a broomstick as a special tool.
Use a spark plug socket and several extensions as a tool to hold it from turning.
Make a tool out of allthread and some nuts.
An air impact driver is a great tool.
 
What I don't understand is why you can't keep the inner tube from turning by just keeping the pinch bolts tight?? I would think that would prevent the tube from turning, but I just keep on turning the allen bolt without the tubes separating, so clearing I am not understanding it.
 
If I remember correctly the bolt you are talking about goes into what is called the oil keeper and its probably turning inside the upper tube. I used a few extensions and an upside down spark plug socket to do mine.

I wouldn't be surprised if a cordless impact would zip it right out. HF has a cheap 18v that functions about as well as my $200 makita but is quite a bit heavier and not very well balanced unless you turn the battery backwards but then you can't stand it up. Great tool for occasional home use though.

/\/\ac
 
That allen bolt on the bottom of the fork threads into the damping rod. You need to hold the rod from turning in order to unscrew the allen bolt. When I do this I take a spark plug socket with the hex on the outside bottom and stick a long extension into the socket backwards. Hold the damping rod from turning while removing the allen.
 
what isn't mentioned that helps big time, is take a propane blow tourch and heat the allen head up a bit then use what ever trick you perfer. MIne is the impact gun with the spring still installed.

The heat helps break loose the loctite/rust holding the allen bolt in place.
 
Yep, the old 5/8" spark plug socket with two 10" extensions did the trick. Now I have to go get a snap ring plier to get the clip out!!!!:mad:, or is there another trick you guys no of???
 
slip said:
Yep, the old 5/8" spark plug socket with two 10" extensions did the trick. Now I have to go get a snap ring plier to get the clip out!!!!:mad:, or is there another trick you guys no of???
Click to expand...

I'd get the pliers. You can sometimes use a pointed awl to move the ring in and then grab it with some needle nose pliers, but with the snap ring pliers, you are guaranteed to be able to reuse the ring.
 
renobruce said:
I'd get the pliers. You can sometimes use a pointed awl to move the ring in and then grab it with some needle nose pliers, but with the snap ring pliers, you are guaranteed to be able to reuse the ring.
Click to expand...

Yep, I tried using needle nose pliers to no avail. Splurged for Channel Lock snap ring pliers that I picked up at Lowes. It came right out with them. Good $20 investment. But I have to go back tomorrow and get a piece of PVC to punch the seals in. One day I am going to get this bike done. This is all I have left to do.

PS: The front wheel and rotors were a mess with the leaking caliper. So I took the rotors off, and cleaned the wheel and rotors real good. I then painted the rotor hubs. Man, I can't wait to get this thing back together.
 
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