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GS1000 front end conversion/upgrade options?

  • Thread starter Thread starter russr33
  • Start date Start date
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russr33

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So there is a ton of info on conversions for the Kat and 1100, but what are the best options for the 8 valve's? Is anything bolt on? I tried to do a search but kept getting "fatal error" messages. I have this pic and seem to recall someone saying it was some mid 2000's katana front end but not sure.

GS1000UpgradedSuspension.jpg
 
I cant answer your question, but have to comment that I like the custom black and white "skunk" front fender on that bike !
 
I am working on trying to fit a Bandit front end on my 78 1000. As far as I can tell I am going to have to convert to tapered bearings and change the stem in the triple tree as the bearings are spaced further apart on the stock bandit stem. These are 41mm fork tubes, with twin piston Tokiko brakes. I thought I could use the triple tree from a GK but it is wider than the Bandit triple so the wheel and brakes won't line up properly. I will update later when I get it figured out
 
The absolute easiest conversion is to use GSXR 1100 K ( 1989) triple trees combined with Bandit Ph 1 stanchions.
This allows you to use a GSXR 1100 front wheel complete with it's disks and calipers.
It's 100% plug and play except that you will have to add new lock stops to the steering.
It has the tremendous advantage of keeping your ground clearance for the twisties:)
If you used a complete GSXR front end you would be loosing 30 mm clearance...
I believe the GS 1000 on the picture has a complete Bandit Ph2 front end.
The only issue is that you will have to change the steering stem!
Here's an example on my 1100 Kat but It will be exactly the same on an 8 valve GS
Katana1100SZ001_zps7ef2368a.jpg


Katana1100SZ005_zps30159c94.jpg


Katana1100SZ007_zps3abfc7c3.jpg
 
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Awsome, just a couple of questions.

What is a Bandit "ph1"? Is it a generation thing? What are the year ranges? Which displacement Bandit?

What about speedometer? When you say stanchions you mean the fork/tube assembly?

Are you saying if you go with the Bandit "ph2" then you remove the steering stem and press in the GS1000 steering stem?

Thanks,
Daryl
 
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Awsome, just a couple of questions.

What is a Bandit "ph1"? Is it a generation thing? What are the year ranges?

What about speedometer? When you say stanchions you mean the fork/tube assembly?

Are you saying if you go with the Bandit "ph2" then you remove the steering stem and press in the GS1000 steering stem?

Thanks,
Daryl
Bandit Phase 1 refers to the air cooled Bandits.
I believe they ended in year 2000?
The speedometer needs to be attached one way or the other to the top yoke.
No need to worry about the speed accuracy as long as the speedo drive corresponds to the front wheel chosen:)
Yes the stanchions(?) are meant to be the fork tubes.
Yes, I believe you need to press in the GS 1000 steering stem if you use Bandit Ph 2 triple trees ?
Beware, I haven't done it myself!
Katana1100SZ003_zpsb94fa7bf.jpg
 
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I went with a complete 92 Katana front end, bolted right on. Needed new steering stops

Still working on mounting the GS tach and the Katana speedo

The bandit front end has the advantage of using the tubular handlebar mount rather than the individual bars the Katana has

The corresponding rear wheel (Katana/Bandit) in a GS 1100 swingarm, some spacers, a chain conversion kit and you may be ready to go. I'm going to trim 8 mm off the sprocket carrier and use less offset at the front to maintain clearance to the shock and frame from the chain
 
The corresponding rear wheel (Katana/Bandit) in a GS 1100 swingarm, some spacers, a chain conversion kit and you may be ready to go. I'm going to trim 8 mm off the sprocket carrier and use less offset at the front to maintain clearance to the shock and frame from the chain
I used a GSXR 1100 4.5" rear wheel and a 13 mm offset sprocket.
This was possible because I used aftermarket shocks that cleared the chain:)
 
I went with a complete 92 Katana front end, bolted right on. Needed new steering stops

Still working on mounting the GS tach and the Katana speedo

The bandit front end has the advantage of using the tubular handlebar mount rather than the individual bars the Katana has

The corresponding rear wheel (Katana/Bandit) in a GS 1100 swingarm, some spacers, a chain conversion kit and you may be ready to go. I'm going to trim 8 mm off the sprocket carrier and use less offset at the front to maintain clearance to the shock and frame from the chain
Just get a GS500 carrier, I have already done this set up it worked out great, went with 530 chain and I believe a 2mm washer behind the front sprocket to move it over and was still able to get a full nut on the sproket shaft. I was then able to run a 160 rear tire in the 1100 swinger. I also used the caliper for the Bandit rear wheel , and just made a custom brake stay rod.
 
Just get a GS500 carrier, I have already done this set up it worked out great, went with 530 chain and I believe a 2mm washer behind the front sprocket to move it over and was still able to get a full nut on the sproket shaft. I was then able to run a 160 rear tire in the 1100 swinger. I also used the caliper for the Bandit rear wheel , and just made a custom brake stay rod.
Good input:)
It must be way cheaper than buying a 13 mm offset sprocket:mad:
 
There is some excellent info here, I like the 89 gsxr 1100 frontend set up that John has on the Kat. I prefer the look of the USD forks but actually think this might make more sense.

Great thread Russ!
 
Just thought I'd chime in here. All Balls Racing has a great cross-reference for neck bearings. It won't tell you what fits what, but it does tell you what has the same neck bearings. You still have to consider stem length and fork stops, etc.

http://www.allballsracing.com/index.php/forkconversion

there is a massive chart in Basscliffs web site showing head bearing sizes in mm, and what bike the bearings will fit.

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/cbsaunders/gs/steering_bearings.html
 
There is some excellent info here, I like the 89 gsxr 1100 frontend set up that John has on the Kat. I prefer the look of the USD forks but actually think this might make more sense.

Great thread Russ!
I take that as a compliment :)

Just thought I'd chime in here. All Balls Racing has a great cross-reference for neck bearings. It won't tell you what fits what, but it does tell you what has the same neck bearings. You still have to consider stem length and fork stops, etc.

http://www.allballsracing.com/index.php/forkconversion
Yes, this is excellent but...we have no idea of the lengths of the fork tubes that are available:confused:
My research so far has given:

Model/Tube diameter/Length/RSU/Wheel diameter

GS 1000/37mm/775mm/RSU/19"
GSX 1100 Kat/37mm/800/RSU/19"
GSXR 86to88/41mm/767mm/RSU/18"
GSXR 89/43mm/745mm/RSU/17"
Bandit 96to02/43mm/775mm/RSU/17"

Only the two latter ones are equipped with a cartridge.
FYI, I've tested all the configurations above and the cartridge type fork really makes a difference:cool:
That's where RaceTech intervened to improve the non-cartridge type forks for sure?
I'm currently investigating another alternative that would be long enough, with a cartridge and...adjustable;)
Top secret for the moment!
 
I take that as a compliment :)


Yes, this is excellent but...we have no idea of the lengths of the fork tubes that are available:confused:
My research so far has given:

Model/Tube diameter/Length/RSU/Wheel diameter

GS 1000/37mm/775mm/RSU/19"
GSX 1100 Kat/37mm/800/RSU/19"
GSXR 86to88/41mm/767mm/RSU/18"
GSXR 89/43mm/745mm/RSU/17"
Bandit 96to02/43mm/775mm/RSU/17"


Only the two latter ones are equipped with a cartridge.
FYI, I've tested all the configurations above and the cartridge type fork really makes a difference:cool:
That's where RaceTech intervened to improve the non-cartridge type forks for sure?
I'm currently investigating another alternative that would be long enough, with a cartridge and...adjustable;)
Top secret for the moment!

I posted in the other thread about the spreadsheet I put together. There are other important factors other than fork length.

For a RSU fork you probably have about the best combination (43mm stantions, 20mm axles and cartridges) sticking with all Suzuki.
I chose the 88 GSXR 1100 forks wheels (41mm stantions, 17mm axle with a racetech emulator) as it is all period GSXR for my GS1100ED and it is hard to make up for the difference in ground clearance between the 18" and the 17" wheels.


http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1791715&postcount=62


P.S. there is another option that is similar to the 43mm mix of triple/stantion is the 37mm mix of the GS1100EZ/ED and GS1150 triple that allows you to also run 17" wheels but with the stock ED fender. This does require making brake mounts. Admittedly the 43mm combination does look quite attractive. A stricter budget would be the only reason for staying with the 37mm combination.
 
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I posted in the other thread about the spreadsheet I put together. There are other important factors other than fork length.

For a RSU fork you probably have about the best combination (43mm stantions, 20mm axles and cartridges) sticking with all Suzuki.
I chose the 88 GSXR 1100 forks wheels (41mm stantions, 17mm axle with a racetech emulator) as it is all period GSXR for my GS1100ED and it is hard to make up for the difference in ground clearance between the 18" and the 17" wheels.


http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1791715&postcount=62


P.S. there is another option that is similar to the 43mm mix of triple/stantion is the 37mm mix of the GS1100EZ/ED and GS1150 triple that allows you to also run 17" wheels but with the stock ED fender. This does require making brake mounts. Admittedly the 43mm combination does look quite attractive. A stricter budget would be the only reason for staying with the 37mm combination.
Here's a picture of my own GSXR 87/88 combo with 18" wheels.
No ground clearance issue here!
c22da5b4.jpg
 
Here's a picture of my own GSXR 87/88 combo with 18" wheels.
No ground clearance issue here!
c22da5b4.jpg

How much do you figure you changed the ride height with the mono-shock? How does it ride compared to twin shocks? What shock are you running?

Is that a 160/60-18 on the rear?
 
Good input:)
It must be way cheaper than buying a 13 mm offset sprocket:mad:
It was when I had a 96 Bandit 600 for a parts bike laying around. And I had a wrecked GS 500 also . So it was just a matter of mix and match to see what would fit and what wouldn't. I like putting together stuff like this I call them "Mutts":)
 
How much do you figure you changed the ride height with the mono-shock? How does it ride compared to twin shocks? What shock are you running?

Is that a 160/60-18 on the rear?
By design, I set the swingarm in the same position as stock with no load.
I have the possibility of raising the rear by simply adding some spacers but I haven't tried so far.
My rear shock is an Ohlins rated slightly lower than for the GSXR 1100 K.
The rear tire is a Michelin Pilot 3 160/60-18 but I believe it's a little too large for a 4" wheel.
I'm not totally satisfied with this setup because the fork is too soft compared to the rear.
I raised the oil to 15W in the fork but now it's too harsh...
I believe the recipe is to go with tougher springs ( .95kg/mm) and RaceTech emulators...More dollars to go!
524c285d.jpg

I know what you are going to say about the next picture....
bbcb8f81.jpg
 
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