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GS1000 maintenance and idle questions...

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
ign timing is adjustable check with good old fashion timing light
ozman
 
Ok, I'll look into getting an air filter today. I have a feeling it is not something my local dealer will have in stock, but who knows..

So since the ignition timing is adjustable, is their any performance increase from advancing the timing past the factory setting, asuming it does not detonate?

I posted a couple pics of my bike in the 1979 gallery a few days ago, but I guess they have not been approved yet.

Thanks

Jeff
 
JDChalfan said:
Ok, I'll look into getting an air filter today. I have a feeling it is not something my local dealer will have in stock, but who knows..

So since the ignition timing is adjustable, is their any performance increase from advancing the timing past the factory setting, asuming it does not detonate?

I posted a couple pics of my bike in the 1979 gallery a few days ago, but I guess they have not been approved yet.

Thanks

Jeff
Click to expand...
I always preferred not to play around with timing. I set mine to what the factory manual says. And besides the air filter, if you cannot find the air box lid you need to make something to cover the top, or it will run too lean. Even a couple strips of duct tape will work. Cheap fix, you won't see it under the seat and you can easily get to the filter. At least until you can find a replacement lid.
 
stupid question time...

stupid question time...

Ok I got my air filter in. I borrowed the carb-sync adapters from my friend. I went to find the adjustment screws before I started hooking the gauge up, and I cant find them! Yeah, I feel pretty dumb saying that.. On most of the bikes I have worked on, the carb-sync adjustment screws are pretty easialy accessible and easy to find, usually right on the linkage that connects the carbs to each other. I even got out a small mirror and looked from the bottom, but I didnt see anything. I figure I'm missing something really simple...

This is one of those times when buying a service manual sounds like it would have been a good investment. :roll:

My second question is about the vacuum nipples on the top of the carbs. The far left carb does not have one, the second from left and the far right have vent tubes running to nothing.. (?) And the second from the right has a vacuum line running to the petcock. I asume this is the vacuum line that opens the petcock when the bike is running. So, if that is the case, why do two of the carbs have the same nipple aparently not connected to a vacuum source, and one of them has nothing?


Thanks

Jeff
 
Re: stupid question time...

Re: stupid question time...

JDChalfan said:
Ok I got my air filter in. I borrowed the carb-sync adapters from my friend. I went to find the adjustment screws before I started hooking the gauge up, and I cant find them! Yeah, I feel pretty dumb saying that.. On most of the bikes I have worked on, the carb-sync adjustment screws are pretty easialy accessible and easy to find, usually right on the linkage that connects the carbs to each other. I even got out a small mirror and looked from the bottom, but I didnt see anything. I figure I'm missing something really simple...

This is one of those times when buying a service manual sounds like it would have been a good investment. :roll:

My second question is about the vacuum nipples on the top of the carbs. The far left carb does not have one, the second from left and the far right have vent tubes running to nothing.. (?) And the second from the right has a vacuum line running to the petcock. I asume this is the vacuum line that opens the petcock when the bike is running. So, if that is the case, why do two of the carbs have the same nipple aparently not connected to a vacuum source, and one of them has nothing?


Thanks
Jeff
Click to expand...
The screw to sinc each carb is under the cap on top the carb, held by 3 screws.Directly above the slide you will see a flat head screw held by a nut.Loosen the nut enough to allow turning the screw.You can use a box or open end wrench and a good fitting screwdriver.Turn the screw to adjust that carbs vacuum,it does'nt take much.Then tighten the nut WITHOUT allowing the screw to move at all.Final torque on these nuts is only 3 ft/lb.Sometimes adjusting 1 carb will change the level of another carb, it takes practice.It is much quicker and easier if you do a good 'manual' sinc first.It can be hard to set all 4 equal at idle,but it's more important to get them close at around 3,500-4,000 rpm.Don't rev' it higher than this and NEVER let the throtttle return quickly,this can suck the mercury into the engine.Before sincing,or hooking up anything,warm up the engine first. While sincing,place a fan or 2 to cool the motor.I place my tank on my workmate bench and use extended fuel/vacuum lines.As for your vacuum nipple,etc,questions:carbs 2 and 4 have a vent tube that vents the floatbowls.The tube to #2 vents #1 and 2 carbs, the tube to #4 vents 3 and 4 carbs. These just go under the seat and should not be blocked or allowed to get pinched or else fuel starvation will occur.Carb 3 has an identical looking nipple but it is a vacuum for the petcock. The place you hook up the threaded adapters in your sinc kit is on the manifolds of the head.Just in front of the carb rubber intakes. The 4 allen heads with a small copper washer are removed and you install the threaded adapters in their place.Your adapters should also have an o-ring or rubber washer to avoid air leaks.Place a towel under the carbs so you don't drop and lose the little screws or copper washers. Don't over tighten them either! Hope this covers your questions. You really should get a manual. Factory, if you can find one.
 
with the clutch basket rattle at idle we drill out the rivets replace the damper springs with heavier ones and re rivet welding is ok for racing but tends to make the clutch a bit harsh for average riding
ozman
 
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