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GS1000 mystery noise...transmission bearing? WITH VIDEO

  • Thread starter Thread starter 80GS1000
  • Start date Start date
running a big GS up in the rev's or down shifting at hi rev's will blow your starter clutch a part.
the rollers kick out and engage with this type of abuse.
i have had more customers break there stock engine starter clutches like this than anything else.
go to a friday tune and test at your local track...slam the throttle closed when you go through the traps with the engine@9k...its not if it will break...its when.
 
Next question.... Where have the teeth gone?

Might want to pull the lower sump cover off and take a look.

According to the book the rear axle bolt and a dowel is the way to pull the

mag off.
 
Next question.... Where have the teeth gone?

Might want to pull the lower sump cover off and take a look.

According to the book the rear axle bolt and a dowel is the way to pull the

mag off.

as stated above...
you need to add a spacer between the puller/pusher bolt and the crank end as to not bugger the crank snout.
 
running a big GS up in the rev's or down shifting at hi rev's will blow your starter clutch a part.
the rollers kick out and engage with this type of abuse.
i have had more customers break there stock engine starter clutches like this than anything else.
go to a friday tune and test at your local track...slam the throttle closed when you go through the traps with the engine@9k...its not if it will break...its when.

Is there a heavy-duty starter clutch for these engines? Or a way to beef them up? I run this bike hard.

Next question.... Where have the teeth gone?

Might want to pull the lower sump cover off and take a look.

According to the book the rear axle bolt and a dowel is the way to pull the

mag off.

Can you pull off the oil pan with the motor still in the frame?
 
You can drop the pan with the engine in.
Don't know about the HD clutch. All they did with the 1100/1150s is but a larger taper on the crank for the rotor to grab onto. The 1150s added a dowel to lock the rotor with the clutch so if you shear the bolts you will still get home.
 
The 1000G uses larger needle bearings supporting the clutch but that won't keep the teeth on the gear.
 
its centrifugal force and a bad/dated design i think.
don't close the throttle at high revs or don't**DOWN** shift like your and indy car driver or a GP racer.
if you choose to do so then.......
your shlt will fail sooner or later.
 
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On my recent 1000 purchase that had the 76mm piston kit installed, an ill fated attempt to start the engine resulted in a loud clack noise from the starter clutch. Scared me enough to stop trying. The PO had just replaced the starter clutch so I didn't want to push my luck. I didn't pull the clutch off the crank but maybe I should to inspect it? The gear turns super smooth so I "think" it's okay but what do you guys think? (sorry for the thread drift).
 
Just got an 1100 E with a noise coming from the same area, from the countershaft area, but gets worse as the bike gets warmer. After it runs for 1/2 hr sounds like a can of marbles, although it is only there when the bike is moving , guessing countershaft bearing. Pulling cover and checking shaft there is no movement.
 
I asked 80GS1000 what he had don to fix this and he finally changed the Starter Clutch.

That is what I'll be doing and I'll post Back
 
Just got an 1100 E with a noise coming from the same area, from the countershaft area, but gets worse as the bike gets warmer. After it runs for 1/2 hr sounds like a can of marbles, although it is only there when the bike is moving , guessing countershaft bearing. Pulling cover and checking shaft there is no movement.

Can of marbles sound is classic starter gear

That's what mine did recently

It could be a simple as the 3 bolts, or a new gear, bearings and rollers as I did. One of my bearings was broken and the rollers fell out. The gear face was literally hammered
 
I have an unused gear from the starter clutch set for a 79 GS1000L if anyone would like to purchase it. I replaced my starter clutch, but retained the original gear.


4CLUTCH SET, STA
12600-49811 (replaces 12600-49810)
 
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