GS1000 Race bike self starting

[hotrods316]

Hi guys I know this topic has been discussed at length in other aspects but I am trying to get a solid grip on it.

I have a 1978 GS1000 that I am turning into a little bracket racer. I got it from a fool who "ratted" the bike up but for what I wanted it was a good deal- or so I thought. I tried to crank the motor with the starter to check compression but nada. Long story short the sheetmetal cover to my starter clutch has a nice big whole where some parts decided to go on vacation.

SO...

I want to rebuild the clutch to make it work for race bike purposes. I am have removed the rotor from the inner hub alrready but I am lost from here on out on what mods to do. I need some help in how to put the clutch back together so that it will last the light duty associated with race days (dont want to spend $200 on a new one; I'd just put an external starter on it)
What tricks are the selfstart guys doing that I havent figured out yet; sharing is caring they say!

I know Ray has helped some guys and the guy from across the pond has done it, and I know some other drag/road racer guys on here have done the same thing.

If anyone can help me out I would appreciate it. I also need the small parts as some decided to leave without permission.

PS I am in Dayton Oh so any local guys that want to help I'd be happy to use your knowledge . I know free beer usually works wonders (it does for me when someone needs tig welding done)

Thanks

Matt

 

[rapidray]

Call me at 714--356-7845 & I will help you Matt. Ray.

 

[TheCafeKid]

Matt, after Rays done with ya, give me a ring Monday. I'm no builder but I'm a decent put it back together-er I can help ya with some of the basic maintenance stuff and making sure everything works as it should. Never messed with "building" a starter clutch from scratch I always just replaced/repaired bits. Ray can help ya out with that though I'm sure.

 

[hotrods316]

Josh and Ray,

Thanks for the replies, I was at work all day today and will call Tuesday. Thanks

Matt

 

[hotrods316]

So thanks to ray and josh for bringing me upto speed on these sprag clutches. I have found all the parts (ended up in oil pan sump) but have one more question.

Are the springs all different lengths? or do I need to try and source new springs?

Thanks

Matt

 

[rapidray]

Matt, all 3 springs are the same length so you might want to look at some new ones. It was good talking to you! Ray.

 

[hotrods316]

Need Clutch help

Need Clutch help

Calling all gurus again...

So I got the starter clutch rebuilt with new springs and a welded ring around the sheetmetal perimeter. Tacked the two stationary parts together and peened the bolts over. Put it back in and voila- no more clank and good crank!!

Thanks to ray for the help over the phone and josh (cafekid) for the starter knowledge and for some other posters for letting me use your information from your respective threads.

So after I saw the damage to the starter clutch I decided it would be prudent to examine the rest of the engine for obvious signs of distress and wouldnt ya know

I pulled the clutch out to check for spring rattle and had myself a heavy tamborine. BUT the worst part was that the aluminum clutch basket has a crack in one of the finger grooves all the way through. After looking at the basket I can see plain as day as why everyone says it is the weak link of the motor. There is no real meat to the basket or backing plate and under serious loads (the fatass I bought the bike from ripping on the street) it broke. I am just glad that I caught this before I destroyed my cases.

So what are my options and what are the respective costs? Do I try and weld the basket and remachine it? Look for a NOS Gs1000 clutch? Modify another model clutch for the Gs1000? Take a stick of dynomite to the bike?

If I have to spend money on anything else (i can weld and machine this basket myself) I want to have a stronger than stock clutch so I can race the bike.

Thanks guys.

Matt

 

[TheCafeKid]

Calling all gurus again...

So I got the starter clutch rebuilt with new springs and a welded ring around the sheetmetal perimeter. Tacked the two stationary parts together and peened the bolts over. Put it back in and voila- no more clank and good crank!!

Thanks to ray for the help over the phone and josh (cafekid) for the starter knowledge and for some other posters for letting me use your information from your respective threads.

So after I saw the damage to the starter clutch I decided it would be prudent to examine the rest of the engine for obvious signs of distress and wouldnt ya know

I pulled the clutch out to check for spring rattle and had myself a heavy tamborine. BUT the worst part was that the aluminum clutch basket has a crack in one of the finger grooves all the way through. After looking at the basket I can see plain as day as why everyone says it is the weak link of the motor. There is no real meat to the basket or backing plate and under serious loads (the fatass I bought the bike from ripping on the street) it broke. I am just glad that I caught this before I destroyed my cases.

So what are my options and what are the respective costs? Do I try and weld the basket and remachine it? Look for a NOS Gs1000 clutch? Modify another model clutch for the Gs1000? Take a stick of dynomite to the bike?

If I have to spend money on anything else (i can weld and machine this basket myself) I want to have a stronger than stock clutch so I can race the bike.

Thanks guys.

Matt

Ray may be able to help with basket.. I don't have one kicking around that'll work in the 1000 motor. Did I read somewhere the 1100E basket will work Ray or was that in reference to something else... Maybe just the HD plate is the same? I don't think a G basket will work. Either way get a basket, or buy a built basket from Ray. If ya get one local or buy one and have it shipped, take it up to John Pearson and have him set it up all pretty like for ya..he can also do just about anything you'd want done for go fast... Head work, crank work, etc.

 

[trippivot]

go to ape GS zone the backing plate and springs are there, it will fit 1000 and 110016V basket diameter. The total clutch height is really the major difference between the two.

I had a lot of time into my 10002V clutch running a 110016V ..

Remove the steel plate and piano wire from the inner hub and smooth the surface behind it so you may start the clutch stack with a fiber. material will need to be removed on all sides of the inner hub. This is a mod that really makes a 1000 clutch last and feel so much better.

MTC makes a shim kit for the outer basket so your machine work can be off by 0.035 and still shim it in - just so the inner/outer dosen't rub under load. the inner hub has the most work on a lathe.

basket is welded in a press and the basket is shortened after inner hub work is done. this is because the stack has different plate count.

it will work I cant give you specifics because so many different baskets / hubs / pressure plates/ can be made to work together. chain/shaft/ 1100-2V, 1100-16V,
the best is a 1150-16V (hub has steel insert on clutch shaft grooves)

 

[Guest]

Trip,
I see that you are signed on... I want to fix the leak so they dont give me grief. Also I want to check a few things. Such as more power!. What are your suggestions. And do you want to fix the leak? I do not have the garage I once had... If you are in for the money, do you want the whole bike or just the motor? I have lots of spare cash laying around. Hope my sense of humor is coming through... oh, and no thread hijak in the works...
Curt

 

[trippivot]

1 more thing I forgot.

the backing plate springs are either 1" ( early 1100)or 1-1/4" (later1100 and 1150)

just check the openings of the basket you choose to use and match it to the backing plate you purchace.

 

[hotrods316]

Trippivot

Thanks a bunch for the information. I will keep everyone updated...