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GS1000 top end oiler?

  • Thread starter Thread starter 80GS1000
  • Start date Start date
80GS1000 said:
Does anyone with a GS1000 run a top end oiler or have you seen it done? I've got some lumpy .395 lift Web cams along with a 1100 cc Wiseco piston kit in the GS, run it to redline often, and sometimes wonder if the cams get enough oil.

Also, will these oil pump gears fit in a GS1000 motor? http://www.schnitzracingstore.com/catalogs/catalog.asp?prodid=325631&showprevnext=1
Click to expand...

I don't think you can run a top end oiler on an 8 valve...at least I've never seen one. Not sure where you would run the lines? The "mod" is with high volume oil pump gears. That's what I did. The ones you show in the link should work. You can double-check by looking at a Suzuki parts fische for the GS750 and count the teeth in the gears. Actually I think they tell you how many teeth there are.
 
Those gears fit, thats what I bought. I guess you can probably make a top end oiler. Maybe feed lines off the pressure switch to the to the valvecover or side of the head? But would you need too? I think the head gets plenty of oil as is. If you notice whenever you take off your valvecover. The buckets are always sitting in a puddle of oil. Once again, I'm no expert, just my opinion. I will be running the same cams with shim under buckets.
 
Thanks for the help guys. Do oil pumps ever wear out? Should I replace the oil pump along with those higher pressure oil pump gears while the clutch has been removed? The motor did 40K miles before the top end rebuild.
 
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80GS1000 said:
Thanks for the help guys. Do oil pumps ever wear out? Should I replace the oil pump along with those higher pressure oil pump gear while the clutch has been removed? The motor did 40K miles before the top end rebuild.
Click to expand...

If you have a manual, there is a way to check the clearances on the pump. They don't typically wear out, but I would replace the two orings that are behind it. They can get old and leak causing lost efficiency. I also replaced those nasty phillips head screws.



100_9164.jpg



100_3193.jpg
 
I took my pump apart and cleaned it. The clearences were tight, It seemed like it was brand new still, so I put it back in.
 
Are you guys sure adding those gears is a good idea? The 8V GS engines are already prone to oil leaks at the upper end oil feed passages and won't this just put those joints under even more stress? The 8V cams/buckets have a large wipe area and wear on cam surfaces is just not an issue with these engines. Also, the valve pockets in the head hold quite a bit of oil so the cams are flooded so to speak anyway aren't they? Not sure about journal wear though.

Just asking.
 
DSC04058.jpg


.395 are baby lumps!! using shim on top still

I have a .510 and a .480 set. running to 11000 rpm and I only put 2 Qt oil in the case. there is 2 options on gear ratio for your engine oil pump.

the 38-29 is the hi flow hi pressure option of the two--HOWEVER I use the 33-34 ratio for less drag. no need for a extra oiling
 
tip to tip and trichoidal rotor to flat pump body are the 2 measurements to see if there is excessive space that creates cavitation and lesser pumping effy.
oiling is never been a problem for 2V like nessism said there are 8 pools of beautiful oil baths up there, so much it just ooozzes out every sealing surface.
 
Tarbash 27 said:
Those gears fit, thats what I bought. I guess you can probably make a top end oiler. Maybe feed lines off the pressure switch to the to the valvecover or side of the head? But would you need too? I think the head gets plenty of oil as is. If you notice whenever you take off your valvecover. The buckets are always sitting in a puddle of oil. Once again, I'm no expert, just my opinion. I will be running the same cams with shim under buckets.
Click to expand...

if you shelled out the money for under buckets why not just buy the bigger cams? I would go for bigger cams if I already had under buckets, but since I am being cheap I'll keep my stock buckets for now and run the web 110 grind like most people.

renobruce said:
If you have a manual, there is a way to check the clearances on the pump. They don't typically wear out, but I would replace the two orings that are behind it. They can get old and leak causing lost efficiency. I also replaced those nasty phillips head screws.



100_9164.jpg



100_3193.jpg
Click to expand...

Hey Bruce, where did you get you bolts from? have any extras?


Trip, I reconize the 29/38 gears as 16v 750's but are the others just plain 1000 stockers?
 
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first timer said:
Hey Bruce, where did you get you bolts from? have any extras?
Click to expand...

If you mean the recessed allen heads, I got them from TomMLC. He has more I think. I used them where you see and also where the carbs mount to the carb rack bracket. Be careful replacing them... there are two different sizes. In a few spots, if you use one that's too long, it will rub against the tranny gears. You can cross-reference the length from the Suzuki fiche.
 
So are higher volume/pressure oil pump gears needed if you plan on using an oil cooler? I plan on using 10 row Earl's cooler like what Nessism has and an oil thermostat to divert oil back to the engine till it reaches operating temperature. A bit concerned too about oil leaks with the higher volume/pressure gears - anyone had a problem with this? According to the service manual for the 16V 750 the oil pressure on that motor is a minimum 43 PSI which is many times more than a stock GS1000 oil pump makes.

Coolerlowermount.jpg
 
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The specs for the 750 are different because it is a plain crank motor. All the plain cranks run higher psi. All you will be doing by adding those gears to your motor is increasing the volume, not the psi. I have found that by adding the 750 gears the oil psi only goes up by 2 or 3 psi on the roller bearing crank motors.

You don't need to use the 750 gears just to run the oil cooler. My Skunk has stock oil pump gears, and they still run alot of volume. You can see my oil cooler lines "pulse" when you give it some gas.
 
Dont forget, a 16v 750 uses plain crank bearings. So it requires High pressure. I ran an oil cooler on my 8v 750 for a little while. No leakes besides the old cracked hose's I was using.

That oil cooler looks a little big. I will be running a 7 row setrab cooler which is a bit narrower also. No t stat.
 
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