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Gs1000e Airbox Removal Help!!!!!!!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter mkaczmarek
  • Start date Start date
M

mkaczmarek

Guest
ok...i'm trying to remove my carbs to give them a thorough cleaning...I removed the tank, and am following the VM Carb Rebuild instructions (as well as the Clymer and Suzuki manuals, which are useless in this instance). the airbox is loose, I can push the middle of the airbox in more than necessary to get clearance to move the airbox, however the #1 and #4 connections are next to impossible to push in as the sides of the airbox have chrome metal ends (riveted into the plastic airbox case.) Even if I muscle it as far back as possible to get about 1mm or clearance I cannot move the airbox in any direction at that point due to its shape and tight space.

I don't want to break anything so I stopped and wanted to consult you guys if you have any "Tips 'n Tricks" with regards to removing the airbox...

which way should the airbox go out when I get enough clearance between it and the carbs, which way should it be tilted...etc...

I'm actually considering going to pods if this is going to be THIS HARD everytime (and perhaps even harder to assemble than take apart)...

==================================================
1979 GS1000E

"NEVER MESS WITH A GS"
"The less you know, the more you believe."
"We thought that we had the answers, it was the questions we had wrong."
 
I was trying to figure out an "ALTERNATIVE" way to remove the airbox...i noticed that the carbs do obviously move a little bit when i try to remove the airbox. So I thought, would it be easier to loosen the clamps between the carbs/intake boots on the head and remove the carbs and airbox together somehow?

Is this possible? Is it recommended? Is it NOT recommended for some reason?

HELP! HELP! HELP!

==================================================
1979 GS1000E

"NEVER MESS WITH A GS"
"The less you know, the more you believe."
"We thought that we had the answers, it was the questions we had wrong."
 
The best way I've found to remove the carbs on my '79 GS1000 was to loosen all the clamps, remove the cables and also remove the cable tower (the thing the cables mount to), it'll give you more room to move the carbs, there's a little spring under it, don't lose it. As well remove the two bolts holding the air manifold and also remove the air filter box. As you're looking from the right side rotate the rear of the carbs up so they start coming out of the rubber manifold at the top and just keep rotating the carbs until there about 45 degrees from the original position, by this time they should have come out of the intake tubes and simply pull them out the right side. If the rubber parts are hard maybe some heat on them will help, be carefull with the gas though. If you drain the float bowls you won't be covering everything with gas. I've got it down to removing the carbs in about twenty minutes.
 
Last edited:
So i assumed, but wanted to hear it from someone else before going ahead. The VM Carb Rebuild guide as well as the service manuals (both original Suzuki and aftermarket Clymer) state "REMOVE THE AIRBOX" then "REMOVE THE CARBS"...from what I can see, this is IMPOSSIBLE in that order without doing damage to either the airbox, carbs, or other components...

again, thanks, I'll update once its all "removed"



Sandy said:
The best way I've found to remove the carbs on my '79 GS1000 was to loosen all the clamps, remove the cables and also remove the cable tower (the thing the cables mount to), it'll give you more room to move the carbs, there's a little spring under it, don't lose it. As well remove the two bolts holding the air manifold and also remove the air filter box. As you're looking from the right side rotate the rear of the carbs up so they start coming out of the rubber manifold at the top and just keep rotating the carbs until there about 45 degrees from the original position, by this time they should have come out of the intake tubes and simply pull them out the right side. If the rubber parts are hard maybe some heat on them will help, be carefull with the gas though. If you drain the float bowls you won't be covering everything with gas. I've got it down to removing the carbs in about twenty minutes.
Click to expand...
 
OK...its OUT...wow, whoever came up with this idea wasn't thinking ahead...I can see why people go to PODS, and its not only for Performance...

Only thing that "scares" me now is reassembling it back together, just the part where the airbox and carbs have to go into one another and into the engine intake boots...do you use some kind of lubricant on the rubber boots to make this process easier? or is this not advised?
 
mkaczmarek said:
OK...its OUT...wow, whoever came up with this idea wasn't thinking ahead...I can see why people go to PODS, and its not only for Performance...

Only thing that "scares" me now is reassembling it back together, just the part where the airbox and carbs have to go into one another and into the engine intake boots...do you use some kind of lubricant on the rubber boots to make this process easier? or is this not advised?
Click to expand...

Same process to put it back together and using something to help things slide would help, although you can add some lubricant later only if it gets tough. First time it'll probably be lots of bandaids and no beer until they're in. LOL. While you have it apart you should check the condition of the o-rings between the intake tubes and cylinder head, they have a habit of cracking and leaking air. If you don't check them chances are you'll get to do the whole process over again. It's not a job you really want to repeat, is it?
 
Sandy said:
...While you have it apart you should check the condition of the o-rings between the intake tubes and cylinder head, they have a habit of cracking and leaking air. If you don't check them chances are you'll get to do the whole process over again. It's not a job you really want to repeat, is it?
Click to expand...

Yes, I already have those waiting to be replaced. I was thinking about replacing the intake boots as well but they look pretty good so i'll leave them in for now.
 
Missing O-Rings after disassembling Carb!!!

Missing O-Rings after disassembling Carb!!!

I'm about halfway through the cleaning process. Since I am doing this for the first time I wanted to take the "slowly but surely" approach.

I have taken apart the #1 and #2 carbs completely and aside from the drain plug on the #1 carb being completely stuck everything came apart with fair ease. I have left the whole bottom float bowl cover in Carb Cleaner, maybe by the time I get home from work it will come loose, if not I guess it stays in there.

I also noticed why my bike had a lot of trouble idling without choke. the Pilot Fuel Jets had NO rubber O-Rings on them and they were completely screwed in. No wonder the last owner said it would take about 20 minutes or riding the bike with the Choke on before it would be possible to turn the choke off. Besides that the O-Rings on the Main jet were completely hard and flattened and came apart when I tried to take them off.

I'll update as the work progresses.

==================================================
1979 GS1000E

"NEVER MESS WITH A GS"
"The less you know, the more you believe."
"We thought that we had the answers, it was the questions we had wrong."
 
Trouble with Idle...Fuel problem?

Trouble with Idle...Fuel problem?

Finally I'm back...I was away for a few weeks overseas and finally got a chance to finish up my Carb cleanup and reassembly.

I did a "meticulously precise" Bench-Synch (or so I believe). The carbs were not in the best of shape when I took them off, but not a total disaster either. They were not synched, that's for sure. Since the bike had sat for about 4 years prior to me buying it I figured they would be a mess inside but it wasn't so bad.

I cleaned all the parts, replaced my main jets from the original #95 with recommended #105. The Pilot Jets remain at #15 (maybe with the next carb job I'll go with #17.5? I was told the bike would warm up a tad quicker. I couldn't get the #17.5's in time and didn't want to delay the job any longer.

So everything is back together and this is what's happening when I start the bike.

Starts great on choke (having put on Prime for 1-2 sec. then switched the petcock to the ON position)...The first time it started after reassembly it ran on choke for about a minute and started to drop rpm's and the engine eventually stopped.

I figured I didn't have it in the Prime position long enough, figuring that the carbs were dry and didn't have a chance to fill up with fuel yet (is this correct thinking?). At this point I put it on prime for about 5 seconds and the bike started up but was revving high so I turned down the choke (eventually all the way and it was still revving high (about 3000rpm) without choke and without any throttle input. It ran like this for a little while I blipped the throttle as my first thought was possible stuck throttle cable, but I checked and all looked OK, it eventually dropped the rpms and the engine again stopped.

At that point I stopped working on the bike as it was already late and I dind't want to continue to make noise just in case my neighbours didn't appreciate it at such a late hour.

I want any input, what should I check, what could be causing the problems I'm having. My first thought is its FUEL related. But I could be wrong.

Just to recap, all O-Rings were replace inside the carbs with the kit I bought from a fellow GSR member (they were very well marked and made the work a breeze). Also I replaced the Carb Intake boot O-Rings. All gaskets etc.

==================================================
1979 GS1000E

"NEVER MESS WITH A GS"
"The less you know, the more you believe."
"We thought that we had the answers, it was the questions we had wrong."
 
I have become an expert in putting the carbs back into my bike with the stock airbox. At first I thought "Wow, how skilled a mechanic I am, to be alble to put the carbs back in the bike in about 15 minutes." Then it dawned on me, the only reason I have had so much practice putting the darn thing back together is becasue I am a terrible carb tuner.

Anyway, I have found that without a doubt the best method is as follows...

With the boots totally removed from the intake manifolds, and the rear aiirbox removed, and the front plenum unbolted, follow these steps:

1. Put the carbs in position. Do not fasten it to the front plenum yet.

2. Attach the throttle cable and choke cable. This is 100 times easier beofore you mount the carbs.

3. Attach the carbs to the front plenum (air box). Make sure all the boots are tight.

4. Pull the carbs and air box up as high as you can and wedge the intake manifold boots into the intake manifold. Start with the middle two boots, finish with the outside ones. Make sure that clamps are very loose. If your boots are pliable they should wedge right in there easy, and if they aren't- well, you need new boots. Tighten up the manifold side clamps only.

5. Push the whole airbox and carbs into the boots. Wiggle the carb rack up and down while pushing forwards and soon you should feel each carb "snap" onto the boots. Tighten the carb side clamps on the manifold boots.

6. Fasten the front plenum in place, then the rear air box. Carbs are in- easy peasy!
 
Thats exactly how I did it, I couldn't find any other way without possibly damaging something.

Yes, I did fasten the carb/airbox boots before inserting the carbs into the engine side intake carb boots, this was to ensure a good seal around the carbs. I find that the choke cable adjustment screw needs to be removed for this whole process to work well.

Any ideas why I can't get it to idle without choke? (please see my previous post for details)
 
Well, that leads me to think you have a lean condition for some reason, and the choke richens the mix up enough for it to idle. If it's actually not a lean condition, it's possible that a vacumm synch will help the whole problem.

Start at the tank and work down towards the engine. Make sure the gas is flowing out of the tank well, the gas cap vent is free, the fuel line is correct (5/16ths), float height is prefect, carbs are perfect clean and operate properly, check for the 3rd, 4th 5th time that you have no air leaks (don't forget the float bowl gaskets- they can suck air in if they are bad), keep going until you find it, something is wrong.
 
Carbs have been thoroughly cleaned, all gaskets are brand new Suzuki gaskets (not eBay/aftermaket ones). float levels were precisely tuned and "shouldn't" be an issue. as for the fuel hoses 5/16" is the Inner Diameter which you're talking about. I do have a fuel filter between the tank and carbs, which was clened and it is directional (IN/OUT) sides which are properly connected.

As for the carb boots on both the engine side and airbox side, they were tightened nicely, using brand new original Suzuki Clamps and "shouldn't" have any leaks there. Is it OK to run the bike without the fuel filter? just normal hose? If I'm not mistaken this was the normal setup from Suzuki.

==================================================
1979 GS1000E

"NEVER MESS WITH A GS"
"The less you know, the more you believe."
"We thought that we had the answers, it was the questions we had wrong."
 
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