GS1000E Stator, regulator or rectifier fault find

[Guest]

At the moment getting through a battery per season on the old GS. Since I've been on GSR I have tried to educate myself on the charging system of the GS1000E 1980 model and there is certainly a lot of information and knowledge available in the community. I must admit electrics are not my forte but always willing to learn from you guys here. I just need to point out that I am in the UK and my bike is the 1980 GS1000E model.

To my knowledge the GS still has the original factory stator, I did purchase a new rectifier from Z1 Enterprises 2years ago and the headlamp loop is intact. The bike has a new battery fitted (2 weeks ago). I had an old multimeter (which does not have probes but just spring clips) which I used to take the readings mentioned below and have just ordered a new multimeter to ensure their accurateness (if that's a word).

I am new to using a multimeter, no doubt I may make some mistakes along the way, so please go easy with me, I am determined to sort out the issue so that when the virus goes I can go back to burning rubber .
I have visually checked the connections from the alternator to the regulator and rectifier and all look good (clean with no signs of overheating).

Here are the results of the quick test with lights off:

1) Ignition key off battery charge 12.55v
2) Ignition key on and engine crank - 12.1v
3) 1000rpm engine idle -12.65v
4) At 2500 RPM - 13.00 VDC
5) At 5000 RPM - 13.50 VDC
6) Key off - 12.70v

From reading through the stator pages it mentions I should be looking at approx. 14.5v at 5000rpm :upset: bugger!

When my multimeter arrives hopefully in the next 4 days I will be looking to check out each leg of the stator wires at 5000rpm for ac voltage and then test each legs continuity to ground. I think this is right if you could please let me know.

Preparing for the worse I have read on the stator papers that a SH775 series R/R is the way to go, but being in the UK I cannot find one anywhere :confusion: does anyone have any ideas?. Very interested to know your thoughts if you think my course of action is correct. ​

 

[posplayr]

You could have a compromised stator or poor connections but it is more likely the stator.

The most important tests are the VAC tests for :
a.) leg to Leg at 5K RPM shoudl read approx 70-80 VAC
b.) leg to ground(case) at 5K RPM shoudl read approx 0 VAC.

The ohm meter tests are worthless and a distraction from any worth while diagnostic testing.

 

[Guest]

Many thanks for the reply posplayr. I will carry out tests a and b you have mentioned as soon as my voltmeter arrives. Just doing some worse case researching while the voltmeter arrives, checking for what stators are on the market, is there a specific brand to look for or are most like for like do you know?

 

[posplayr]

Many thanks for the reply posplayr. I will carry out tests a and b you have mentioned as soon as my voltmeter arrives. Just doing some worse case researching while the voltmeter arrives, checking for what stators are on the market, is there a specific brand to look for or are most like for like do you know?

I like electrosport for the 1100E stators (heavy baby blue epoxy coating), but apparently there are different suppliers depending on GS model. If the 8V GS1000E is same as 16V GS1100E then i would go with Electrosport, otherwise Steve will probably come along and make his recommendation. It might be Ricks or some other, I just do not recall the specifics.

 

[Guest]

I like electrosport for the 1100E stators (heavy baby blue epoxy coating), but apparently there are different suppliers depending on GS model. If the 8V GS1000E is same as 16V GS1100E then i would go with Electrosport, otherwise Steve will probably come along and make his recommendation. It might be Ricks or some other, I just do not recall the specifics.

I installed a Caltric stator in my 850, surprisingly good quality for the price. I think someone here recommended it back when I was fixing all my electrical. Not had a problem 8k miles in, paired with the Sh775. I believe they offer stators for most of the GS models.

EDIT: This post https://www.thegsresources.com/_for...or-what-brand-to-buy&highlight=Caltric+stator has some good information from trusted sources on here, also recommending Caltric

 

[bobtail84]

Preparing for the worse I have read on the stator papers that a SH775 series R/R is the way to go, but being in the UK I cannot find one anywhere :confusion: does anyone have any ideas?. Very interested to know your thoughts if you think my course of action is correct. ​

You can find 2nd hand SH775 on eBay uk but they are normally north of ?100 There is a list on here somewhere that gives the other bikes with the correct item as there are a few different types that are not what you need. I bought a new SH775 R/R for a CAN AM Spyder 710001103 Renegade Outlander which cost me about ?65 but I was in the states last year so I picked it up, the cost to post to the UK is around ?40 so for the same money as a 2nd hand one you could have new. I'm also sure that on of the members on here sells 2nd hand ones in the for sale section.

Jeff

 

[Guest]

Many thanks for the answers

 

[Guest]

I thought I would checkout the earth connections on the standard regulator and rectifier setup on the GS1000, whilst waiting for my voltmeter. My setup is the battery negative wire is bolted straight to the rear of the engine. The rectifier negative wire is 8 inches long with a ring which is connected straight to the battery negative post. The regulator has a short ground cable with a ring which is fixed to the regulator bottom mounting bolt. I have two black/white wires coming out of the harness (in a position just above the regulator) both with rings one was connected to the regulator top mounting bolt and the other to a bolt fixing on the battery box. Peculiarly the black and white ringed wire to the battery box was between the bolt and a washer but under the washer was a rubber mount. What are your thoughts guys. Can I move the black/white wire from the battery box and place it over the other ringed black/white wire from the harness to the top mounting bolt on the regulator.

 

[fastbysuzuki]

You can get a stator here in the uk https://www.electrexworld.co.uk/. They are not shipping at the moment with the virus thing I have had one on my 850 for three years no problems. As said before the sh775 and remove the handle bar loop is the way to go.
Appart from members on here selling used 775's you can look on eBay.com prices have gone up, best seller I have found is powersportsnation they sell through the global shipping program that way you know exactly what the cost is including shipping,import duty And v.a.t
If you buy not using that then they calculate the cost of the part + shipping then add all the duty to that amount and then Royal Mail will charge you ?8 for the collection of the taxes.
if the seller was to declare the part cost + shipping to be under ?50 then it should sale through no problem nod, nod.
polaris dealers have hiked up the prices of the 775 I got one a number of years ago for ?87 since then they spotted the sales going up and now want ?180+ in the uk

 

[Guest]

You can get a stator here in the uk https://www.electrexworld.co.uk/. They are not shipping at the moment with the virus thing I have had one on my 850 for three years no problems. As said before the sh775 and remove the handle bar loop is the way to go.
Appart from members on here selling used 775's you can look on eBay.com prices have gone up, best seller I have found is powersportsnation they sell through the global shipping program that way you know exactly what the cost is including shipping,import duty And v.a.t
If you buy not using that then they calculate the cost of the part + shipping then add all the duty to that amount and then Royal Mail will charge you ?8 for the collection of the taxes.
if the seller was to declare the part cost + shipping to be under ?50 then it should sale through no problem nod, nod.
polaris dealers have hiked up the prices of the 775 I got one a number of years ago for ?87 since then they spotted the sales going up and now want ?180+ in the uk

Many thanks for the in depth reply it is appreciated my friend

 

[Guest]

I thought I would checkout the earth connections on the standard regulator and rectifier setup on the GS1000, whilst waiting for my voltmeter. My setup is the battery negative wire is bolted straight to the rear of the engine. The rectifier negative wire is 8 inches long with a ring which is connected straight to the battery negative post. The regulator has a short ground cable with a ring which is fixed to the regulator bottom mounting bolt. I have two black/white wires coming out of the harness (in a position just above the regulator) both with rings one was connected to the regulator top mounting bolt and the other to a bolt fixing on the battery box. Peculiarly the black and white ringed wire to the battery box was between the bolt and a washer but under the washer was a rubber mount. What are your thoughts guys. Can I move the black/white wire from the battery box and place it over the other ringed black/white wire from the harness to the top mounting bolt on the regulator.

Just wondering if you guys have any comments or recommendations on the above

 

[posplayr]

This is a thread that dealt with the same problem you are. That OP has a separate Regulator and Rectifier that converted to a SH-775

https://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?257778-2-regulators-installed-Why-me

 

[Guest]

Many thanks Jim

 

[posplayr]

Look at this post.

https://www.thegsresources.com/_for...lators-installed-Why-me&p=2586204#post2586204

 

[Guest]

Look at this post.

https://www.thegsresources.com/_for...lators-installed-Why-me&p=2586204#post2586204

Many thanks Jim, got some 14 awg cable coming with some spades and rings, just wondering where the best place is for the SPG and best location for the wire that goes to the frame.

 

[posplayr]

Many thanks Jim, got some 14 awg cable coming with some spades and rings, just wondering where the best place is for the SPG and best location for the wire that goes to the frame.

SPG to R/R(-) should not exceed 1 ft. Shorter is better. So an R/R(mounting bolt is fine). With that, the lengths of wire to battery, frame, and Harness do not matter much.

Not sure what type of crimper you have , so it is best to solder those crimps to keep out corrosion. Liquid flux really helps to get the solder to flow well.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008QPT8R2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Guest]

Many thanks Jim, I am on the case

 

[posplayr]

I was checking the GS1000E wiring diagram and I see that it shows the thick red positive lead running from the + battery terminal to the starter solenoid, it also shows a second red wire from the + battery terminal going to the fuse box (15 amp fuse), my GS has the red fuse wire on the same terminal post as the thick red wire on the starter solenoid, is there any detriment in it being this way please.

..............


I'm not sure why I drew that schematic that way other than the possibility that the heavy cable has large connectors that are difficult to clean and there could be irreducible voltage drops on the (+) side. This would show up when you do stator Phase A tests looking at voltage drops at 5K RPM.

I you have a good soldering iron and can dip you cable end into vinegar or Naval Jelly you can try and cut down on as much corrosion in the crimps as possible. Then use some of that liquid solder and heat the crimps to get the solder to flow easily into the crimp. If this all works out you could then safely just run you jumper to the solenoid rather than all the way back to the battery.

Just to beat a dead hose some more, the reason for the liquid flux is so you don't need to put as much heat into the large wire/connector. The bigger the cable the longer it takes to heat up and you end up heating the whole length of wire and melting the insulation. This is especially true if there is even a small amount of corrosion.

If the solder flows more easily, then the end heats quickly and avoids an extended time with the soldering iron (and melting insulation).

Another tip while we are at it. You can used a pair of tweezers or needle nose pliers (with rubber band) on the wire insulation just next to the crimp when soldering. This tends to wick away heat and avoids getting the insulation too hot when soldering a crimp right next to insulation. Of course it requires a light touch as soft insulation will deform if pressed to tightly by the clips. This is the purpose made tool so you can get an idea for an improvised alternative.

It works well if you find you are melting your insulation too much while soldering. I would guess that 80-90% of the problem can be eliminated by using a drop of liquid flux, but sometimes you need the heatsink.

https://www.alliedelec.com/product/g...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

Improvised solutions

https://www.instructables.com/id/Save-your-components-with-a-heat-sink/

 

[Gorminrider]

Here are the results of the quick test with lights off:
4) At 2500 RPM - 13.00 VDC
5) At 5000 RPM - 13.50 VDC

that's pretty low VDC with lights off. does it get worse with lights on? I would do a test on your stator's ac output first. The regulator is not regulating at those voltages so you don't yet know if it's working or not. As to difficulty of finding the popular SH775 there, where snowmobile parts are probably rare! you can get by with an original SH232 or sh238? or the like (but no ebay 'replacements"!) that shipped on Goldwings and other Hondas. They work fine for me.

 

[Guest]

Here are the results of the quick test with lights off:
4) At 2500 RPM - 13.00 VDC
5) At 5000 RPM - 13.50 VDC

that's pretty low VDC with lights off. does it get worse with lights on? I would do a test on your stator's ac output first. The regulator is not regulating at those voltages so you don't yet know if it's working or not. As to difficulty of finding the popular SH775 there, where snowmobile parts are probably rare! you can get by with an original SH232 or sh238? or the like (but no ebay 'replacements"!) that shipped on Goldwings and other Hondas. They work fine for me.

Hopefully my new voltmeter should arrive in the next 4 or 5 days, then will be checking out each stator leg's output. Been looking on ebay and haven't seen any secondhand SH775's, the new ones in the US are expensive with delivery and customs tax for postage to the UK, in the order of $154.