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gs1000g (finally) Replacing stock RR with SH 775

Lorenzo

Forum Mentor
Past Site Supporter
What I plan to do, is soldering new wires to the stator and running them straight to the SH sockets via the mandatory Furukawa connectors;

this is the stock mount:





The SH is a bit longer so that it protrudes like this:




Meaning that, it does not clear the fuse box.





What would you relocate, the fuse box or the RR and where?

Thanks
 
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Check your tail piece housing, some have moved their new RRs into that space, just need some longer wires/cables of which you can make your self.
 
Check your tail piece housing, some have moved their new RRs into that space, just need some longer wires/cables of which you can make your self.


You mean the part with the plastic lid or the the one underneat?
 
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Turn the regulator around so the plugs come out the right side?

I will investigate this possibility, the socket could actually project to the front (even if this entails soldering a bracket onto the battery tray;

It's amazing how so much steel (the bike itself) yelds so little turf, when it comes to add something on... (with style)

I would not mind mounting the RR in the frontal part of the frame, which happens to have two threaded holes whom could hold a bracket, but I am reserving those for the oil cooler....
 
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A piece of 1/4" aluminum plate could be used to relocate the R/R to gain clearance. Attach the plate to the battery box with the old R/R attachment screws, then relocate the R/R to gain clearance and make some new holes.

BTW, your fuse box is not stock, and looks to be upside down. That may be part of the problem.
 
A piece of 1/4" aluminum plate could be used to relocate the R/R to gain clearance. Attach the plate to the battery box with the old R/R attachment screws, then relocate the R/R to gain clearance and make some new holes.

BTW, your fuse box is not stock, and looks to be upside down. That may be part of the problem.

You mean on the side or underneat the battery box?

The fusebox is the original one, the cover is from an infrared receiver (of the kind used to automate gates :o)

Thanks
 
Get creative - here's mine upside down mounted to aluminum plate (held by just one bolt)
 

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Get creative - here's mine upside down mounted to aluminum plate (held by just one bolt)

very clever indeed;

perhaps I should concentrate on relocating the fusebox, less dependant on a continuous supply of air stream and as such, more "flexible";

thanks
 
I managed to work everithing into place, it was not that difficult really, only had to turn the fusebox on a more vertical angle and the ignitor upside down;

my question is: how do you determine which is the positive and which is the ground output from the R/R?

I have used a tester on the 20V DC range, but probing the blades in turn, with the other probe on ground, does not yeld a figure of sort.

Output of the generator was ok, I tested it, but only at 2000rpm and it shows 40V ~

Thanks
 
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my question is: how do you determine which is the positive and which is the ground output from the R/R

Output of the generator was ok, I tested it, but only at 2000rpm and it shows 40V ~

Thanks
I love easy questions! Go back to my pic- the red wire is the positive output, the green is the negative.
be brave, wire it up and test from idle to 5000 rpm, as in this simple test....
charging bliss awaits!
http://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...System-QUICK-TEST/page2&p=1272192#post1272192
 
Thanks very much Tom; So, to whomever it might be of interest, the positive output is the inner one.

I wired it up, and this morning after an 100km spin, this is what it read, engine off: (a-normally it would have been in the low 11's..)



Engine on, 2000 rpm:



Engine on, free revving:



Wow!! After 9 months and 10.000Km, no more "low-volts paranoia"

This item is unbelievable, lukewarm to the touch! (tomorrow I will post pics of the temperature);

Now I can tackle long awaiting improvements, a proper lighting system and a decent horn rig...

Thanks
 
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