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GS1000G Fuse locations

  • Thread starter Thread starter CLAY
  • Start date Start date
C

CLAY

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Can anyone tell me where the fuse locations are for the GS1000G? I blew one last night- the ones under the left side cover are all fine, but I have no power to anything- nothing happens when I turn the key. Any ideas? Thanks!
 
I hope you take no offense to this but your bike appears to be very rusty. If it where
my bike I would go through every connection…handle bar switches, bucket connections,
ignition and clean everything. Replace any worn or badly corroded connectors. The fuse box
can be unassembled from the back…check for corrosion here also….good luck.

Also check those fuses again....if there the glass type they should be replaced with new ones.
Sometimes they break behind the end caps where you cannot see it.

 
Last edited:
No offense taken- it is quite nasty looking right now. I just got it as a project, and it has a *long* way to go. I just am trying to be sure it runs (according to the PO it's supposed to) well before taking the time to do all the cosmetic stuff. This is my first GS and that's why I'm asking this question- I'm not sure what the problem exactly is.

I have checked nearly all the connections, and they all seem fine. I'm thinking that I'm missing or can't find a safety relay somewhere, like a bad clutch or kickstand relay that isn't allowing the start. Hence my question.

Any input on that? Thanks!
 
the stock fuse panel contacts are brass the the tarnish that forms on them does not conduct electricity worth a hoot.
the tarnish raises resistance and generates alot of heat on the end caps of the fuses, after a while it gets hot enough to actualy melt the solder that connects the caps to the fuse element.
you end up with what looks like a good fuse but it won't pass any power.

also the tarnish can keep power from passing through the fuse, clean the contacts, or better yet toss the stock fuse box and install a later model GS blade type fuse box or a aftermarket fuse box.

you need to get a test light and a wiring diagram and track down the fault.

I have a collection of wiring diagrams on my computer and can E-mail you one for your GS if you need it.
 
Also, not sure how you checked it, but the main fuse has to be checked with an ohmmeter, as it should be one with an aluminum body. Probably 30 amp.
 
*That* is the one I am looking for. Is this the thing (hows that for a technical term) under the right side cover? Thanks a ton. I'm pretty sure that's what I blew.
 
OK- now I feel like an idiot. Where is the main fuse located on the 1000G? I looked last night and I couldn't find it. Under the right side cover is the blinker relay and the self-cancel or lighting reserve unit (some controller besides the blinker relay), but I can't find the main fuse. I looked under the left sidecover as well and tried to trace some wiring. Help!
 
I actually have the wiring diagram for your bike at home, but doesn't help here at work! I know my 1100 from the same year has the main fuse on the main fuse block. It is a 30 amp fuse that is plugged right into the block. It plugs into the same type slots as the rest of the fuses, it's just that the body is aluminum.

BTW, have you double checked your battery connections to make sure there is no short, including the ground to the frame?
 
Yup- I checked the battery connections. I think my machine is actually older than '83. I was told it was an '83, but I think it's and 80 or 81. My fuses are still the glass type, which I *do* plan to switch to spade-type terminals, but for the moment I know that's not the problem. Any idea where I'd find the main fuse on this year?
I changed my sig to reflect the unknown year of the bike. I should have done that earlier.
 
Hi

On my GS1000GLx the main fuse is a ordinary glass fuse.

number 4 from top on fuse box.(20 amp)
the others is 10 amp.
 
And the date of mfg should be on your bike's ID plate at the front of the frame.
 
CLAY said:
Can anyone tell me where the fuse locations are for the GS1000G? I blew one last night- the ones under the left side cover are all fine, but I have no power to anything- nothing happens when I turn the key. Any ideas? Thanks!
Click to expand...

Look again at the fuses under the left side cover. One of them should be marked "Main". Visual inspection of glass fuses is not always sufficient. If in doubt, test or replace them.

How do you know for sure that you have blown a fuse? Is your battery fully charged? A bad battery or one drained by a short circuit could also result in nothing happening when the key is turned. Are you getting fully charged battery voltage at the starter solenoid?
 
I'm getting full voltage at the starter solenoid, and full voltage going out from 3 of the "sub" fuses in the fuse block. That's what I can't figure out- I have all these areas with full voltage, but when I turn on the key there is no change in anything. My main fuse must then be ok. I thought maybe there was another fuse in a different location, but there must be something more significantly than that wrong with this thing. Any more ideas?
 
If you have no lights when the switch is on..Test the Key switch with an ohm meter.. also check the wire that that runs to the starter soliniod(sp) from the key switch..if power to lights horn etc.. then also check the wires from the cut-off switch (one may be broken) on the right side.
 
How many fuses are in in the fuse box? Does it have a cover with the fuse functions marked?

I don't understand when you say that you are getting full voltage out from 3 fuses. The only fuse that should be "hot" when the key is off is the Main fuse (and Accessory fuse if fitted). The lights, ignition, etc. should be activated by the key turning in the ignition switch. These fuses should have no voltage with the key off. Are they "hot" then?

If you get full voltage with the key on, then the lights, signals, horn, etc. should work. Unless you have a malfunctioning kill switch or it is turned off, you should get voltage to the activation coil of the starter solenoid when the starter button is pressed. If you are getting voltage to activate the starter solenoid with no "click" response, the solenoid is bad.

When you say that "nothing changes" when you turn the key, it seems that nothing at all is working, as if you had no battery in the bike. If you have 3 hot fuses, have you traced the wires to see why "nothing is changing"?

You should get a workshop manual and a wiring diagram for your bike.
 
Solved!

Solved!

For those of you that have been helping me, thanks a ton. I figured it out, and I guess I don't feel that bad about it:

It was a bad +battery cable that broke internally when I jumped the solenoid, then there was a bad connection in one of the start button connectors combined with a bit o' tarnish on the starter button itself.

I found the cable by checking the routing- it felt a bit too flexible at one point where it makes a bend to go to the solenoid. Somehow it wore from the back where I couldn't see it and the remaining starnds popped when I hit the starter. Replaced it.

Next I started tracing wiring from the starter switch back until I found the bad connection (power on one side, none on the other), then I traced it up until I found that the starter button itself had a bit of tarnish on the contacts. Once I fixed the weak connection and filed the starter button contacts shiny, she worked just fine.

It was a pretty exciting night. She started firing roughly right away, then after a minute or two she cleaned right up (maybe due to the Sea Foam mixed with gas that was running in) and runs very well. I freed up the stuff rear brake caliper, so that is good to go. Time to work on the cosmetic issues and find a front master cylinder and brake...

Once again, thanks for all your help!
 
CLAY said:
For those of you that have been helping me, thanks a ton. I figured it out, and I guess I don't feel that bad about it...
Click to expand...

You're welcome, and good for you for sticking with it and successfully troubleshooting it.:-D Thanks for the feedback.

There's nothing to feel bad about, electrical problems can be a bitch. If I had figured out the problem as you did, I would be happy, happy, happy.:-D :-D :-D
 
Oh, I am! That's the problem with these barn babies- generally no major problems, but small things that can be a dog to solve. When it fired up and it finally broke into a nice idle, I was stoked! Now it's a few brake issues and cosmetics, then she'll be on the road!
 
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