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GS1000G mods- big bore and fuel injection

  • Thread starter Thread starter GS1000G Shopper
  • Start date Start date
Taking/putting up screenshots is not the problem (see below), there is nothing to "figure out" to do that. Here's the situation:
My last datalog covers about 18 minutes of riding, as noted it is about 2MB in size. The latter factor alone makes it difficult to do much with on a limited speed Internet connection that I'm blessed with using.

I could put up 6,108 screen shots- that is how many frames there are from my most recent datalog. I doubt the forum admin would appreciate 6K more posts in this thread. ;) Doing that is like critiquing a film after watching a handful of frames vs watching the film.

The proper venue for that type of file is the MS Extra forum. MSL and tune files (MSQ) can be uploaded and members use MegaLog Viewer to look them over. I'm not to the point where I need to have these reviewed by others yet, I still have tuning to perform. I choose not to waste their time until something comes along I cannot figure out.

Attached is frame 3,050, about halfway through the ride. The white line is RPM, the red MAP, the yellow AFR, and the green head (coolant) temperature. The AFR varied in the first few seconds of running from about 12 to 13 and then remained around 14.6~14.8 (average of 14.7) the remainder of the logging regardless of what the engine was doing. There is an adjustable averaging lag in the software, however based upon other datalogs I've reviewed I should see more variation than what was present. This lead me to believe the wideband controller and/or sensor was a problem. I read a detailed posting about the BPSX controller on the DIY EFI forum and they pointed out a problem of inconsistency existing in original and replacement controllers. I'm waiting on the Spartan2 controller to get here for further testing.

View attachment 41521

Well thanks; despite the interesting signal which I have no idea what it is. The units and divisions of graph are basically illegible.
 
Well thanks; despite the interesting signal which I have no idea what it is. The units and divisions of graph are basically illegible.
That's another reason why a forum such as this one is not the place to perform datalog analysis. The forum resized a very legible 1118x608 pixel graphic into a large thumbnail. It is indeed illegible.

The purpose of this forum/thread was to show how to convert the bike to fuel injection. From the first post:
Me said:
My goal is to make it a repeatable project so others can do so if they think they have the time, money, and ability.

The purpose of the MS Extra (or any Megasquirt) forum is to help with getting an engine started and then tuning. While there is some crossover between the two, it's like medicine- you do not see a neurosurgeon for an ingrown toenail and you don't visit a podiatrist for a brain tumor.
 
That's another reason why a forum such as this one is not the place to perform datalog analysis. The forum resized a very legible 1118x608 pixel graphic into a large thumbnail. It is indeed illegible.

The purpose of this forum/thread was to show how to convert the bike to fuel injection. From the first post:


The purpose of the MS Extra (or any Megasquirt) forum is to help with getting an engine started and then tuning. While there is some crossover between the two, it's like medicine- you do not see a neurosurgeon for an ingrown toenail and you don't visit a podiatrist for a brain tumor.

I will leave it alone; you don't want to post any data here.
 
The new WB controller finally arrived (via slow boat from Canada, eh?). While it looks good, I overlooked that it only works with a newer LSU 4.9 / 17025 sensor, so my existing sensor is no good. I found the best deal on Amazon for $48 shipped and have posted a link in the contents post. More hurry up & wait. On the plus side, the 4.9 uses a smaller connector so it will be easier to run the wiring. I will update the diagram for this once I have everything completed.
 
I got the new O2 sensor installed today, I think it had a shipping waypoint in nearly every western state between Washington and Colorado (edit more proof of the hot rodder's credo of good, fast, or cheap- pick 2 :D). The Spartan 2 calibration sequence is very easy. I created a dash in Tuner Studio that only showed the AFR reading, and then recorded it with my phone. You have to capture the reading from the sensor after it is powered on for the first 5 then the second 5 seconds. Using the spreadsheet the vendor provided, I got corrected readings of 10.42 and 19.80 for 0 and 5 volts respectively (initial specs were 10.0 and 20.0 so the controller was not off by much). I have updated the wiring diagrams for the Spartan 2 controller.

Next I'll put the tank back on and try some more riding/tuning.
 
The aggravation factor is high today. I got the tablet set up and performed a warm up auto tune. Idle seemed to improve. I then did some road auto tuning of the VE table until the Microsquirt connector cable vibrated loose and no matter what I did at roadside it would not reconnect. After several rounds of uninstalling/reinstalling the device and com ports, I got it reconnected. In the meantime, I looked at my data logs and found the AFR remained at 19.7 the entire ride.

I then probed the controller's port and saw it was reading 4.88V no matter what the engine RPM. It output the lower voltages for the 5 second startup intervals, so that part appears to be working. The controller LED that reads the temperature is working properly.

I have reached out to the vendor for assistance.
 
I wish I had your commitment and patience. You could be a donor for patience implants.
LOL. I've back-burnered this more than once. It is a treat to actually ride it though. It's certainly frustrating to jump through the hoops with stuff that is supposed to work only to find out it is not working. I should be covered either way as both the sensor & controller have a warranty, just more time involved.
 
It is always nice to know what is going on at the port. I have been using these and they work well for hooking to my PC and laptop. Two ports available.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/321437528887?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

If you need 9-Pin Serial mixed with USB then this works well. You only have to follow some special instructions for getting the drivers to install. I'm using it under Win 7 on 3 machines.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IDSM6BW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01


There are cheaper, and in any event you probably need to find the older drivers to get the device to work. The one above is "name brand" as they supplied a CD although I did not use it.


I had also had another USB to 9-Pin D'Sub interface, but the USB cable wiggled around too much and it would was finicky on a lab bench and not something to trust on a motorcycle riding around.
 
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I had used the second item with my laptop, they are very finicky about drivers. I ended up using a card (express?) that used an opening on the laptop and had a serial port. That was the most reliable connection I used. The tablet works great since it runs Win 7, is a perfect fit bungeed on top of the tank, and can perform the autotune while I'm riding. Today just revealed more problems to overcome. Tomorrow (or more likely 2 weeks from now the way shipping/returns work :mad:) is another day.
 
I had used the second item with my laptop, they are very finicky about drivers. I ended up using a card (express?) that used an opening on the laptop and had a serial port. That was the most reliable connection I used.

Well that convertor works fine if you get the driver sorted. Prolific, the driver manufacturer, has purposely made it difficult as there are counterfeit chips being produced that are compatible with the Prolific drivers. The installer purposefully corrupts the driver to block usage by the counterfeit chips (the cheap ones) so you just need to get around that. I have a link, but assume you are not interested.

For anybody else, here are the directions; Pages 3 thru 6 have the specific instructions to follow to get the Prolific driver setup correctly so you can use most any of the cheapo USB convertor on ebay.

Installing the Backdated Prolific PL2303 Driver 3.2.0.0
System Requires 32/64 bit Windows Vista / 7 / 8 / 10
http://www.miklor.com/COM/UV_Drivers.php

I'm developing a system at the moment that will use at least two USB serial ports on my Host side, maybe more. My Serial Code under windows will only run at 115K even though Win32 API is supposed to support 256K Baud. Considering my earlier baud rates this is fast. :)

EDIT: I just checked both my RS-232 ports installed in these machines as well as the backdated (3.2.0.0 dated 7/31/2007) Prolific drivers are limited to 128K baud.

BTW, this is one of the cheapo convertors that also works with the exact same drivers. As mentioned before the USB connector is cheap and does not provide a good mechanical hold on the inserted USB cable.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-to-RS23...emale-Screw-/380925878415?hash=item58b0f3a08f

This style has better mechanical properties but you have to pay for what you get.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-To-RS23...B-Converter-/281632104601?hash=item419294e099
 
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I have an LC1 in two of my project cars. If they were easier to get to and not wired in already, I might try one of them here. The second place seemed like it had a much better rep than the first one. Time will tell, I hope I'll hear something tomorrow. The bad thing is as far as I can tell there is no way to test a WB sensor short of specialized software. The only thing I've been able to see via Tuner Studio is a non-moving AFR and then backprobing the Spartan 2 connector and see the unchanging 4.88V. My logical thought process tells me either the sensor is defective and putting out a steady signal regardless of conditions or the controller is doing the same thing. If I knew of a way to test either I'd be glad to do so.
 
My second Shapeways order has arrived, and one of the items was a "Fuel Injection" emblem I designed. It came in black plastic, so I used a couple of paint markers (Orange & Metallic Gold) to mimic the side cover emblem appearance. The attached photo has a damaged emblem from my blue bike for reference. I'm going to see if I can rehab it.

CAM00472.jpg
 
The replacement sensor arrived & did the same 4.88V thing, so the controller vendor has asked I return the controller and sensor to Canada for repair. Depending on how this goes, I may change the table of contents link & suggest another controller.
 
Unfortunately the O2 sensor issue is now moot. The drive shaft bevel drive on the engine side lunched this morning, so the project is on indefinite hold.
 
Well that convertor works fine if you get the driver sorted. Prolific, the driver manufacturer, has purposely made it difficult as there are counterfeit chips being produced that are compatible with the Prolific drivers. The installer purposefully corrupts the driver to block usage by the counterfeit chips (the cheap ones) so you just need to get around that. I have a link, but assume you are not interested.

For anybody else, here are the directions; Pages 3 thru 6 have the specific instructions to follow to get the Prolific driver setup correctly so you can use most any of the cheapo USB convertor on ebay.


http://www.miklor.com/COM/UV_Drivers.php

I'm developing a system at the moment that will use at least two USB serial ports on my Host side, maybe more. My Serial Code under windows will only run at 115K even though Win32 API is supposed to support 256K Baud. Considering my earlier baud rates this is fast. :)

EDIT: I just checked both my RS-232 ports installed in these machines as well as the backdated (3.2.0.0 dated 7/31/2007) Prolific drivers are limited to 128K baud.

BTW, this is one of the cheapo convertors that also works with the exact same drivers. As mentioned before the USB connector is cheap and does not provide a good mechanical hold on the inserted USB cable.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-to-RS23...emale-Screw-/380925878415?hash=item58b0f3a08f

This style has better mechanical properties but you have to pay for what you get.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-To-RS23...B-Converter-/281632104601?hash=item419294e099

Despite my statement in the post above, I have been having alot of problems with USB over Virtual comm ports. These things are tricky and much more going on than meets the eye. You have to be very wary about which chip set your device is using. The very cheapest are the prolific chipsets mentioned. They work "mostly", but not perfectly.

By most accounts the FTDI chipsets and the driver work much better. My testing so far is also bearing this out. Unless you want a lot of headaches :( stick with the name brand USB to RS-232 vendors and preferably the FTDI chip sets. :)
 
Unfortunately the O2 sensor issue is now moot. The drive shaft bevel drive on the engine side lunched this morning, so the project is on indefinite hold.
Any damage to the cases? If not, then this may not be a huge issue to resolve. Part of doing a massive project like this. Keep it going and you'll be rewarded.
 
Any damage to the cases? If not, then this may not be a huge issue to resolve. Part of doing a massive project like this. Keep it going and you'll be rewarded.

No. I'm learning how to rebuild the secondary drive as inexpensively as possible and am working on a how-to for it here.

It's been another hurry up & wait, I am expecting some shims on Monday and at that point I can check the tooth pattern and maybe put it back together.
 
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