I sorta did mine..... once in the last 30 years. It had some gummy gas in them so I took em off and soaked em in a bucket of solvent. After that......never.
-
Required reading for all forum users!!!
Welcome!
Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.A note to new registrants...
All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.A Special Note about Email accounts!
DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.A note to old forum members...
I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.
Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...
-
Returning Visitors
If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.
If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.
I sorta did mine..... once in the last 30 years. It had some gummy gas in them so I took em off and soaked em in a bucket of solvent. After that......never.
K
Kris V
Guest
With all of the help and knowledge on this site he has a great chance. I give him credit for thinking about trying it on his own,there should be MORE people like this "THIS IS HOW YOU LEARN".
Last edited:
K
Kris V
Guest
Here Here:clap:
S
sschering
Guest
I went with a basic De-L-ing process
swap to straight forks
swap bars
add rear sets and less ugly seat cover.
It still looks a little odd but it gets me around..
The rear fender /tail light still bug me.. That and the giant gap between the neck and the tank.
From this
to this
swap to straight forks
swap bars
add rear sets and less ugly seat cover.
It still looks a little odd but it gets me around..
The rear fender /tail light still bug me.. That and the giant gap between the neck and the tank.
From this
to this
Last edited:
T
TheCafeKid
Guest
I have never physically tried it, but I've looked at it numerous times and I'm of the opinion that you could mount an "E" tank to many of the "L" frames. Under those plastic frame covers on many of the "L" models you'll see a hole on each side of the frame. This looks to be where the studs that the rubber bumpers that you put your tank over would have gone on an "E" model vs further back on the frame like your "L". If one measured correctly, and ran a peice of "all-thread" through the frame with nuts tightened to hold it in place, and enough left sticking out to simulate the studs for the rubber bumpers, you could see if it would work. Then if it does, get the all-thread welded into place (or for a cleaner, stock look, some steel rod) and bobs your mothers brother.I went with a basic De-L-ing process
swap to straight forks
swap bars
add rear sets and less ugly seat cover.
It still looks a little odd but it gets me around..
The rear fender /tail light still bug me.. That and the giant gap between the neck and the tank.
From this
to this
S
sschering
Guest
THe front tank mounts are just half the problem with putting an E tank on an L.
Next you have to move the rear mount.
then you have to deal with the seat because the E tank is something like 3 inches longer than the L so you would have to somehow shorten the seat.
Add to that the price of an E tank if you can find one.
In the end it's better just to go buy an E.. I did
Next you have to move the rear mount.
then you have to deal with the seat because the E tank is something like 3 inches longer than the L so you would have to somehow shorten the seat.
Add to that the price of an E tank if you can find one.
In the end it's better just to go buy an E.. I did
S
speedorchid
Guest
Ha Thanks Allie...It's my first GS that bought to learn how to take things apart ....slowly falling in love, can;t wait for the winter to end!!!
In the end it's better just to go buy an E.. I did
Now there's some great advice!
E or G, it's all good.
S
speedorchid
Guest
THe front tank mounts are just half the problem with putting an E tank on an L.
Next you have to move the rear mount.
then you have to deal with the seat because the E tank is something like 3 inches longer than the L so you would have to somehow shorten the seat.
Add to that the price of an E tank if you can find one.
In the end it's better just to go buy an E.. I did
I think I have an e tank as well from a parts bike....
a few tanks that I'm tryin gto make fit...that thin one is from a yamaha...I was told to try and dent it on the inside to make it fit...hmmmm
not sure...
exhaust off and waiting to be painted...had to grind and sand off rust. Wish I could get my hands on a nicely chromed 4 -2 or even better 4-4..
i need a double car garage...
;-)
2
240punk
Guest
Cracks me up. Everyone has hate for a complete custom and no one mentions some guy putting a harley rear fender on haha.
Apples and oranges eh?
Apples and oranges eh?
O
old_skool
Guest
A fender can be removed, cut a frame....well, you have a cut frame!
P
Pendulum
Guest
Re-jetting for pods isn't that big of a deal. You gotta tear the carbs down for a rebuild anyway, so you may as well re-jet if you know you want to run pods.
I went from stock exhaust, stock airbox, and dirty nasty carbs to clean carbs, pods, and straight pipes all in one shot. I dropped my needle clip 1 slot and bumped my mains 5 steps. My jetting is almost perfect as is. I could drop the mains 1 size, which will be done soon. Granted, this is for a 550 but the principal is the same.
I went from stock exhaust, stock airbox, and dirty nasty carbs to clean carbs, pods, and straight pipes all in one shot. I dropped my needle clip 1 slot and bumped my mains 5 steps. My jetting is almost perfect as is. I could drop the mains 1 size, which will be done soon. Granted, this is for a 550 but the principal is the same.
E
EdgeGrip
Guest
I don't care what anyone says, that bike is bad***.
S
speedorchid
Guest
Ok I decided to stay away from that wicked looking bike that can't be ridden without the ultimate wedgy and move one to what I can do....learning tons as I go...
so that you veterans can laugh, i had an oil bucket under the bike to catch whatever came out as I slowly took off the "cylinder head cover"(new words I learned today), thinking that once they were off, some oil or gas would flow out...ha
Got the cylinder head covers on the side nice and shiny... That brasso stuff worked great. I found that of the 8 screws that held on the 4 covers, there were 4 different types....i'll be fixing that soon.
Exhaust going to be painted tomorrow...I hope.
I sanded the rust off, wiped her down with some soap and water and then rinsed...bought some good old BBQ paint and well see what happens.
also got rid of the cheezy suzuki logo that someone stuck on. I was thinking I would sand the imperfections, then put some "bondo" right on the side where the old logo used to be....then resand 400-600-800 etc.., then primer, then paint....any thoughts on this process? I don;t have the old emblem to stick back on.
so that you veterans can laugh, i had an oil bucket under the bike to catch whatever came out as I slowly took off the "cylinder head cover"(new words I learned today), thinking that once they were off, some oil or gas would flow out...ha
Got the cylinder head covers on the side nice and shiny... That brasso stuff worked great. I found that of the 8 screws that held on the 4 covers, there were 4 different types....i'll be fixing that soon.
Exhaust going to be painted tomorrow...I hope.
I sanded the rust off, wiped her down with some soap and water and then rinsed...bought some good old BBQ paint and well see what happens.
also got rid of the cheezy suzuki logo that someone stuck on. I was thinking I would sand the imperfections, then put some "bondo" right on the side where the old logo used to be....then resand 400-600-800 etc.., then primer, then paint....any thoughts on this process? I don;t have the old emblem to stick back on.
S
speedorchid
Guest
cheezy plastic label removed:
then sanded:
then bondo'd:
then sanded:
I think I might do another round of bondo as there is a little bump still. Then going to paint.....
So many posts on how to paint a motorcycle tank. That being said, I don;t have a spray gun or 20 different types of paints and stuff so....I will do the following:
1)sand the tank down with 1200 paper all over. I will leave the maroon paint on the top portions but scuff it all up with the 1200 sand paper. Or is there a need to sand down the whole tank so no maroon paint is showing?
2)Prime the whole tank with a primer
3)resand lightly using 1200 paper
4) paint the whole tank with
5) clear coat/ protective coat?
people talk about clear coats and other things and buffing etc....Do I really have to do something to the tank after painting with the rattle cans above? Is there anything that I can buy at home depot/lowes/rona that might help keep the gas from eating away at the paint?
If it is too hard, I might just pay someone 100$ to paint it black.
ok well I'll keep posting my progress, at least fun moving ahead with things.
primer and then
then sanded:
then bondo'd:
then sanded:
I think I might do another round of bondo as there is a little bump still. Then going to paint.....
So many posts on how to paint a motorcycle tank. That being said, I don;t have a spray gun or 20 different types of paints and stuff so....I will do the following:
1)sand the tank down with 1200 paper all over. I will leave the maroon paint on the top portions but scuff it all up with the 1200 sand paper. Or is there a need to sand down the whole tank so no maroon paint is showing?
2)Prime the whole tank with a primer
3)resand lightly using 1200 paper
4) paint the whole tank with
5) clear coat/ protective coat?
people talk about clear coats and other things and buffing etc....Do I really have to do something to the tank after painting with the rattle cans above? Is there anything that I can buy at home depot/lowes/rona that might help keep the gas from eating away at the paint?
If it is too hard, I might just pay someone 100$ to paint it black.
ok well I'll keep posting my progress, at least fun moving ahead with things.
primer and then
Your best bet is to find the 2K (?) Clearcoat that is referenced in the forums and use it. I rattle canned my tank last year and put a crappy Duplicolor clear coat on it. Sadly, I will be redoing it this year as it just didn't last and will find a better clearcoat.
Spend the money now on doing it right or you'll keep spending more later.
Spend the money now on doing it right or you'll keep spending more later.
S
speedorchid
Guest
More picts moving forward
More picts moving forward
also working on this purple tank:
bondo'd to hell
primed
turned out awesome!!!!
still going to clear coat the top......hope it holds up to gas if it spills.
More picts moving forward
also working on this purple tank:
bondo'd to hell
primed
turned out awesome!!!!
still going to clear coat the top......hope it holds up to gas if it spills.
S
speedorchid
Guest
Painting Tires
Painting Tires
going to silicone spray the rubber cushiness before putting the wheel back on.
Painting Tires
going to silicone spray the rubber cushiness before putting the wheel back on.
R
Roger P.
Guest
I went with a basic De-L-ing process
swap to straight forks
swap bars
add rear sets and less ugly seat cover.
It still looks a little odd but it gets me around..
The rear fender /tail light still bug me.. That and the giant gap between the neck and the tank.
From this
to this
I put the top one on this list of tail lights on my XS650 and it smartened up the look a LOT. There are various places to buy the same one.
http://www.xs650direct.com/products-54.html
