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GS1100 dies randomly while riding?

  • Thread starter Thread starter SirFoxx
  • Start date Start date
S

SirFoxx

Guest
Hello--

I have an '84 gs1100gk. Recently, after about 20 miles of highway riding (70-80mph), the bike will start to lose power, then it will stall out like it has run out of fuel. After I pull over, I pull off the fuel line to check the fuel flow, and fuel is flowing out at a decent rate on the prime setting (bike will stall regardless of the petcock setting). After putting the line back on, the bike will fairly easily start back up with choke, then it will be fine for another 5 - 10 miles of highway riding before it stalls out again. Any ideas why it might be doing this? The carbs have been professionally rebuilt by a member on this forum, have replaced the intake boots along with the air filter prior to this.

Also, there is a bit of oil leaking out of the tach housing. Is there a seal that can be serviced, and if so, how easy is it to replace?
 
Have you replaced the petcock? Also smell your crankcase, any wiff of gas?
 
How about the tank vent? :-k

When it stalls again, open the gas cap. If you hear a big WHOOSH, you need to clean the vent in the gas cap.

.
 
Petcock is only a few months old, so it shouldn't be that. Smelled the crank case. I didn't smell gas, but I asked my friend to smell and he said there's a small hint of gas when he smelled it.

I've been putting off adjusting the valves since the bike runs, doesn't make valve noise, and it's going to be a pain since the fairing will have to come off. I know, shame on me :/

As for the tank vent, I assume it's in the cap? From the times I pulled it off when I go to gas stations, it's never been pressurized. Plus, I've had the tank on it's side before with gas in it, and gas always leaks out of it. Regardless, how should I go about checking the tank vent?
 
SirFoxx said:
I've been putting off adjusting the valves since the bike runs, doesn't make valve noise, and it's going to be a pain since the fairing will have to come off.
Click to expand...

Figured as much. You might want to check the Newbie Mistake thread...
 
Fwiw, that sounds like a blocked tank vent. If the valve clearances were tight or non existent it wouldn't run well for the first part of your journeys
 
SirFoxx said:
I've been putting off adjusting the valves since the bike runs, doesn't make valve noise, and it's going to be a pain since the fairing will have to come off. I know, shame on me :/
Click to expand...
1. OK, so the bike runs. Great. How easily does it start? If it takes a bit of cranking, valves might be getting tight.
2. "Not making noise" is when we all get nervous. Clearances are incredibly small. The maximum clearance is about the thickness of a piece of paper, so there is very little, if any, noise to start with. The valves always tighten up with use, so they won't get any noisier, they will get QUIETER.
3. I have not adjusted valves on a GK, but I have done them on my 850G, which has a Pacifico AERO fairing, and my son's 1000G, which has a Vetter Windjammer. No need to take the fairing off with either one of them. I don't know if the fairing on the GK is mounted differently. It may be a bit awkward, but should be possible.

.
 
Steve said:
1. OK, so the bike runs. Great. How easily does it start? If it takes a bit of cranking, valves might be getting tight.
2. "Not making noise" is when we all get nervous. Clearances are incredibly small. The maximum clearance is about the thickness of a piece of paper, so there is very little, if any, noise to start with. The valves always tighten up with use, so they won't get any noisier, they will get QUIETER.
3. I have not adjusted valves on a GK, but I have done them on my 850G, which has a Pacifico AERO fairing, and my son's 1000G, which has a Vetter Windjammer. No need to take the fairing off with either one of them. I don't know if the fairing on the GK is mounted differently. It may be a bit awkward, but should be possible.

.
Click to expand...

FWIW on my 850 G the Vetter Windjammer has to come off (unplug pigtail and four bolts so no big deal) and the bracket has to be at least loosened for the cam cover to come out( again four bolts and loosen two hose clamps) which only adds 20 minutes or so to the job. No lowers on my fairing though. I mark the location of the bracket and clamps with sharpie prior to removal for easier realignment.

SirFoxx, the gaskets can take two weeks to get to you so plan ahead by ordering half moon plugs if necessary, breather and cam cover gaskets. You can exchange shims with a member here to make things a little easier on the wallet. That tach seal and O-ring could be ordered at the same time as well. Lots of those have a worn drive gear so be prepared to change it too (cheap and easy).

Personally, I'd plan on not riding the bike for a couple of weeks and yank the fairing (if necessary of course) and remove the cam cover. Inventory all of the shims and measure to determine which ones can be moved around and what you'll need then contact Ghostgs1 to make arrangements. Pull the tach sleeve (carefully as the sleeve breaks super easily) and check the gear for a worn spot. Order gaskets, seals, etc and wait for parts. OEM gaskets of course are the best bet.

I'll wager to say shims will be delivered faster than the gaskets depending on where you order from.
 
The valves tighten with mileage and when all the clearance is gone the valves hang open and burn. Sadly, many people don't do any maintenance until the bike starts to falter, and at that point it may be too late. I strongly advise every new GS owner to take the bike straight to the garage after purchase and tend to the basic maintenance like this. The problem at hand may not be related to the valves, but they need to be done regardless. And doing maintenance allows you to cross off possible issues before they can happen.
 
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