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GS1100 Front Fork ???

  • Thread starter Thread starter Bustedknuckles
  • Start date Start date
B

Bustedknuckles

Guest
Quick Recap!

> Recently bought an 82' GS1100G (Barn Find)

> Attempting a Frame-up restoration cafe racer, (trying to powder coat the forks)

? Trying to disassemble 2nd front fork and I run into the problem of the inner tube slipping while trying to take out the bottom bolt on the slider.

>! I don't want to damage anything and haven't come across an accurate description on how to do this yet.

> the top of the fork still has the air valve assembly on it. Ive gathered online that i may need to remove this cap/valve before i can secure the inner tube and remove the assembly?

> Unsure about how to proceed...:-k

~Nate
 

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first brought home
 

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http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=199651

You can use a modified wood dowel, an impact wrench, a 7/8" socket with a enough extensions to get you out of the tube, or ((like me (against the advice from everyone else, purchase a suzuki tool 09940-34581 and suzuki t-handle adapter 09940-34520)). The tool allowed me to get the most stubborn fork apart. If I had used it from the get-go I would be back on the road already. Instead I'm searching the world high and low for the most meager 1/16" x 17/32" roll/pinch pin to get it reassembled.

My bike is an '80 GS 1100E but your forks look identical to mine...
 
K here is the tool I made for my 1100E forks (that is the nut welded at the end), works great, oh and those are my lower fork legs, torque arm, and the top tree mount powder coated.
 
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Not having a welder at my disposal now, I made up a simple tool using a few nuts and a length of threaded bar, cost a few bucks at the local hardware store.

See my fork rebuild here.

DSC02324.jpg


DSC02319.jpg
 
air valve???

air valve???

i think i will be attempting the home made version first since i have a spare set of forks i can use if i destroy the originals...

also, this may be a stupid question but how the heck do i get the top air valve off of the tube so that i can access the inside? i don't want to damage anything by trying to remove it the wrong way... here's what i mean...
 
I found that I have only needed that tool once, because I found if I use an impact on the bottom bolt BEFORE I remove the top cap and spring that it generally comes right out. Seems to hold enough tension that it doesn't spin. Or I am just lucky.
 
I don't have an impact so hand tools it is! any advice on how to remove the top air cap though???
 
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does it just pop off or is it threaded? im trying to look at diagrams and im still unsure... again, i just dont want to damage anything...
 
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The top cap is threaded. Keep downward pressure on it, so that it does not fly all over the garage when the last thread comes out!
 
Yeah, couldn't tell you. Those are different than mine. What 2BR says makes sense...
 
2BRacing said:
The top cap is threaded. Keep downward pressure on it, so that it does not fly all over the garage when the last thread comes out!
Click to expand...

Don't have your face over just in case it does get away from you. It could put an eye out.
 
Thew top caps should have been loosened before removing them from the triples.
 
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