Gs1100e carb options

[Danb4563]

Recently I came into an amazing deal from a buddy of mine. A 1983 gs1100e, in pretty decent shape for $300 canadian. The bike came mostly complete, missing one side cover, and the carbs. I managed to order The last right side cover for a gs1100e that Suzuki had. The motor had been sealed up after the carbs were sold (it has a set of 33 smoothies on it), another buddy of mine got the side cover, and then the bike ended up with me. I've picked up a wolf 4:1 pipe, and since he was running 33s, the air box is long gone, so I'll pick up some k&n pods. I know of the tuning issues that come with the pods and pipe, but the k&n pods will help. So here is my dilemma. I have multiple carb choices, all in the shelf ready for rebuild, but I'm not sure which option will work best 28th my setup. I'm hoping some of the gurus can weigh in here with their opinions. My options are as follows...

I have two sets of gs1100 carbs. One set came from an 82 or 83 1100e, the second set from an 81 or 82 shafty motor.
I have one set of 36s, I'm not 100% sure what they came from, but the spacing matches up with the 34s. The only noticable difference beside the bore size, is the top cover has what I would describe as a round indent in the middle.
I also have a set of bst33ss carbs from a 95 katana. The centre spacing is a little off, but since this setup is essentially two banks of two carbs, the centre spacing can be corrected with two new rails.

Whichever set I go with, I will do a complete rebuild and rejet. Which set would you choose to move forward with the pipe and pods? Pipe is a period correct wolf racing pipe. I plan on keeping the bike Mostly stock in appearance, it will be the cruiser for my wife and I. I know the bst33s have a drastically different look to them, but only the hardcore gs guy would notice.

 

[Steve]

If you are going to go "crusising", 2-up, don't go with oversize carbs.

Smaller carbs will work better at lower engine speeds, those at which you will be mostly riding.

.

 

[Danb4563]

So would you go with the 33s or the 34s?

 

[Steve]

I don't know much about the particulars of the non-stock carbs, but I have gotten the impression that the "33 smoothies" are a bit of an upgrade from the stock 34s. Usually, a "performance upgrade" is geared for top-end performance, and usually at the expense of low-end response. Might have to wait for someone who knows more about those particular carbs to chime in.

.

 

[Danb4563]

These aren't smoothies. They are cvt series carbs from a 95 Kat.

 

[Guest]

The 36's with the indent are 1150 carbs. I have been running a set on my 1100 for years. Same to tune as stock carbs and a good performance improvement. 132.5 mains and 45 pilots

 

[posplayr]

Bs36 carbs; get a DJ jet kit snd for 4:1 use 47.5 pilots

 

[JTGS850GL]

Use either the BS34's from the 1100E or the 36's. Personally I'd go with the 34's from the 1100e as their jetting will be pretty straight forward with the DJ kit. Don't use the ones from the shafty 1100. The main air jets are larger and messes with the calibration at the top end.

 

[TxGSrider]

I think the choice of carbs has allot to do with how much time you want to spend messing with them. The gs1100 carbs would sure be the easiest to bolt on and go, cables all bolt up, etc. If you don't mind tuning and modifying the BST36SS carbs are great, on my basically stock motor (pods/exhaust) the throttle response and top end pull is great, but you'll be modifying cables and fuel lines and spending allot of time getting them set up. Its your call.

 

[Danb4563]

The cable and fuel lines ect will all need to be redone, most likely. The previous owner was running old style 33mm smoothebores. He pulled everything else off. I have already needed to find a choke control and cable bracket since he eliminated the need. Also, I don't mind the tuning. This is what makes old bikes fun. My main concern will be reliability. My 750 is a single rider bike. I can mess with that bike and I only need to worry about my own butt if something fails. This bike will be used mostly (but not exclusively) for longer rides, with the wife. If its unreliable, she won't ride it. That being said, it is an 1100, and I want to feel the power when I need it.

So Nobody likes the cvt carbs? They look like they would flow much more air due to the intake design. I thought they would be an option, but they are bringing in good money on ebay, maybe I'll just sell them and use the 34s or 36s. So far it seems like the votes are pretty split.

 

[Danb4563]

I should mention, that Warren has an 82 1100e, and chance are we will be taking his 82 and my 83 out together next season. I think his bike is cosmetically. Little cleaner than mine so I want my bike to be faster than his. He is running a set of 34s. Would the 36s give me more power across the band or will I notice a loss in low end power?

 

[Guest]

Bs36 carbs; get a DJ jet kit snd for 4:1 use 47.5 pilots

Use either the BS34's from the 1100E or the 36's. Personally I'd go with the 34's from the 1100e as their jetting will be pretty straight forward with the DJ kit. Don't use the ones from the shafty 1100. The main air jets are larger and messes with the calibration at the top end.

If the 34mm carbs are Canadian models OP won't need a jet kit. We got adjustable needles as stock, so everything is already to be retuned to suit the pods and pipe.


Mark

 

[JTGS850GL]

If the 34mm carbs are Canadian models OP won't need a jet kit. We got adjustable needles as stock, so everything is already to be retuned to suit the pods and pipe.


Mark

Adjusting the height of the needle jet will not alone compensate for pods and a 4:1 pipe. Jet changes are still going to be required. The DJ kit doesn't just give you adjustable jet height. It also changes the taper of the needle. Mains will also need to be changed. The DJ kit comes with 4 different main jet sizes and a pilot air jet along with the needle and clips.

 

[posplayr]

If the 34mm carbs are Canadian models OP won't need a jet kit. We got adjustable needles as stock, so everything is already to be retuned to suit the pods and pipe.


Mark

I can see you have never done this before.

 

[Guest]

Adjusting the height of the needle jet will not alone compensate for pods and a 4:1 pipe. Jet changes are still going to be required. The DJ kit doesn't just give you adjustable jet height. It also changes the taper of the needle. Mains will also need to be changed. The DJ kit comes with 4 different main jet sizes and a pilot air jet along with the needle and clips.

I didn't say he wouldn't need jet changes, just that he doesn't need a dynojet kit.

I can see you have never done this before.

So jetting my 82 1100E Canadian model to run with APE pods and Kerker 4-1 doesn't count?


Mark

 

[JTGS850GL]

I didn't say he wouldn't need jet changes, just that he doesn't need a dynojet kit.

Reading your post it implied that he needed nothing else since the needle jets were adjustable. Being a little clearer and indicating that other jet combinations would be REQUIRED would have helped clarify your point.

DJ did a good amount of research into developing that kit specifically for the GS1100E. The needle is not only multi position but also a different taper. Sure you can get by without changing it, but it will improve transition response. Yes he can go through a number of different jet combination and get it running fairly well, but the time and expense is not worth it in my opinion. I'd just bite the bullet and go with what's been proven to work.