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GS1100E Electrical - no clue where to start

  • Thread starter Thread starter wirelessguy
  • Start date Start date
W

wirelessguy

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Hi,

My bike has been sitting for some time and after finishing a carb cleaning I decided to try and start up the bike. I do have a maintainer which is not always on. The battery (AGM) was dead (under 4volts) so I ended up buying a brand new one (GEL).

The voltage on my new battery is fine. I put the key in my bike and turn to on the dash lights up properly... however, when I go to hit the ignition the entire display goes blank. I tried the battery tester and after the no start the battery reads 12.8V do I have some sort of short? Perhaps she's been sitting over the winter and now has some sort of wiring issue.

Where do I start? How do I troubleshoot?


Thanks.
 
To start try the Quick Test, I know it will not start just want to see how far you pull the battery down with key on. So two measurements plus hit the starter and measure the voltage then.
 
Here are the details...

BIke off, removed new trickle charger from new battery and tested voltage in Off and got 13.72V
Key to On position, drop to 12.55V and stabilized there. (I have a special cut-oof for my headlamp, Prior owner was a cop, lol) WITH HEADLAMP ON drop to 12.44V

Turned light off (back to 12.55V and hit IGN Button... I hear on click and entire console dies out.
Left standing with key in on the voltage now rises to 13.02-13.05 but key in any position does not get console to light up again.

I will need to plug trickle chanrge in again and wait some time before I get the console to light up.

Any thoughts on what this is? Should I be checking fuses? Is something grounded out? (As you can see electrical is not my thing).

Thanks.
 
Although a fuse problem is unlikely, I would not rule it out. Look at your fuse panel, there should be five fuses. If the labels are there, GREAT. If not, look for the ACCessory terminals (screws at one end of the fuse panel). The fuse next to those screws is the ACC fuse. It will not be involved in this discussion any further.

Next is the MAIN fuse. It apparently works at least part of the time, otherwise you would not see anything when you turn the key ON.

Next is the IGNition fuse. It supplies power to the coils and ignitor when the key is ON and the 'kill' switch is ON. It also provides power to the solenoid when the starter button is pushed.

Next is the SIGNALS fuse. It provides power to all your signaling devices: turn signals, brake, horn and warning lights.

Finally, is the LIGHTS fuse. It provides power to the headlight, tail light and gauge illumination.

When you lose power to your console, can you operate the headlight? How about turn signals and/or horn? What happens when you push the starter button? A quick check with a test light on both sides of each of the fuses will tell you whether it is a fuse problem. Do a check before you try starting the bike, then another one if (when) it fails. Yes, you obviously have a power problem, just need to find out how far it's getting and where it stops.

.
 
All the fuses are fine.

I suppose a good question on my part is why does it take the time it does until I can put the key in and have the console light up again?

The trickle charger is still connected and I still can't turn the key and get the console lit so I can't do any further testing yet.

You asked if I can operate the headlight and I was able to turn it on/off before I hit the ignition. I did not try the turn signals or horn. I'm not sure if those should work in On position without ignition. I don'think they do for me but I'll have to confirm when the console works.
 
"I suppose a good question on my part is why does it take the time it does until I can put the key in and have the console light up again?"

Good question, assuming it's not a wimpy charger or it has some builtin auto overload shutoff device, you should not have to wait for console to light.
Remove fuses from top of box one by one and see if behavior changes.
 
I dont know if this is the problem or not but something that any owner of a GS1100EZ/ED should be aware of is that the Check Light box under the tank is designed to not light any bulbs if the ground to the oil pressure switch is not grounded.

It is described in the manual and apparently it is a warning that something is amiss. The checklight box should turn on all warning lights with the key on but engine not running. It senses engine not running via the oil pressure switch.
 
Thens for the troubleshooting help.

I managed to cure the problem but sadly I'm not quite sure why. (Don't you hate when that happens?)

a long time ago I had switched to batteries without the acidity sensors. The instructions then were ot ground out the wite by attaching to the negative terminal. I decdied that while I'm troubleshooting everyting I might as well disconnect that wire. Sure enough as soon as that was ungrounded my console lit up again! I taped it off and left it tucked away for now.

I actually got my bike to start for the first time in over a year so I'm greatful forall the advice. Runs rough though and my carb job may not have been sufficient but at least she lights up.

Have a great weekend.
 
wirelessguy said:
Thens for the troubleshooting help.

I managed to cure the problem but sadly I'm not quite sure why. (Don't you hate when that happens?)

a long time ago I had switched to batteries without the acidity sensors. The instructions then were ot ground out the wite by attaching to the negative terminal. I decdied that while I'm troubleshooting everyting I might as well disconnect that wire. Sure enough as soon as that was ungrounded my console lit up again! I taped it off and left it tucked away for now.

I actually got my bike to start for the first time in over a year so I'm greatful forall the advice. Runs rough though and my carb job may not have been sufficient but at least she lights up.

Have a great weekend.
Click to expand...

It sounds like you are grounding the wrong wire, did you check the color against the schematic? Have you confused the oil pressure switch(G/Y) wire with the battery level sensor wire(G/Bl)?

BTW the G/Bl should be pulled high(+12V side of ignition or O/G) to get the light to go off.
 
Last edited:
I once had a similar problem and it was a silly one, apparently the battery wires didn't connect properly to the battery, after I tightened the screws a bit it worked fine..
 
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