gs1100e has anyone used a factory pro jet kit?

[Gregory]

Does anyone have experience with gs1100e jet kits / pods?

I have a good running gs1100e but it started stumbling at high rpms after the recent warming weather. This winter I added a new 4-1 delkevic pipe.

I removed the carbs to change out the 115 main jets to bigger main jets (117.5 outside 125 inside) in and am haveing a cussfest getting the airbox on the carbs with a good seal.

I have wanted to go to pods for the extra space under the seat as well as hopefully a bit of performance gain, i have put it off because of expense as well as getting it dialed in right sounds intimidating as I read the gsr threads about it.

SO, here I am thinking of ordering the factory pro kit because it doesnt require drilling and uses mikuni jets.

I am a bit reluctant because I am going on this dripping springs adventure in a little over a week and dont want to have to spend a lot of time fiddling with it before I go.

If you have installed factory pro kit on a 1100e or know of a cheaper and or easier way , I would love to hear about it.

 

[posplayr]

Dynojet has been installed 100s of times and many members here have experience.

last person I remember going factory pro had the joy of experiencing the process with little to no help. Rapid Ray does sell the fp needles and from what I recall main jets are very different to DJ.

 

[Gregory]

Thank you. maybe Rapid Ray will chime in...hopefully.

 

[Rob S.]

Dynojet and Ape pods installed on my 11E, and it runs great. Plus, I can access my battery in less than 30 minutes! (Ape pods cost half of K&N.)

 

[Gregory]

Dynojet and Ape pods installed on my 11E, and it runs great. Plus, I can access my battery in less than 30 minutes! (Ape pods cost half of K&N.)

Thanks Rob, I will definitely look at getting APE pods then.

 

[Tom R]

I’m I put FP needles in my ‘80 GS1100.... V&H 4-1, k&n pods....
I ended at 47.5 pilot jets and 142.5 mains.... all genuine Mikuni. I can’t remember if I lifted the needles one clip or not.
I can’t compare to Dyna jet, but it pulled hard to redline.

 

[posplayr]

I’m I put FP needles in my ‘80 GS1100.... V&H 4-1, k&n pods....
I ended at 47.5 pilot jets and 142.5 mains.... all genuine Mikuni. I can’t remember if I lifted the needles one clip or not.
I can’t compare to Dyna jet, but it pulled hard to redline.

The 142.5 is a little fat for the DJ setup but otherwise seems similar.

How does your pipe look? Sooty?

 

[Gregory]

I?m I put FP needles in my ?80 GS1100.... V&H 4-1, k&n pods....
I ended at 47.5 pilot jets and 142.5 mains.... all genuine Mikuni. I can?t remember if I lifted the needles one clip or not.
I can?t compare to Dyna jet, but it pulled hard to redline.

Thank you Tom.

Are the FP needles a lot different than the stock needles? I am guessing a person couldnt just buy all the same mikuni jets and end up with the same results?

 

[Big T]

You can get jets from JetRus.com if you want to go that route. The needle in American bikes is fat and nonadjustable, so you'd want to change that

You spend a lot more time riding on the needles than the main jet. Main jet has almost no effect until over half throttle

 

[Tom R]

I find jets-r-us a bit pricey, but they do pretty much have everything....
I’m not sure that the stock needle being big and fat translates to lower performance, I’m sure the engineers at Mikuni had their reasons. And yes, the factory pro needle looks similar to the stock needle. I’ve measured the two side by side, and the taper is a bit different; but nothing too drastic. Actually, iirc, the stock gs850 needle is even more similar to the factory pro needle. I ran for years with pods, 4-1, and factory needle shimmed up..... and it ran pretty good. I feel like it ran smoother through the midrange with the FP needles, but top end was about the same. Btw - with the stock needle shimmer up, I was also at 47.5/142.5..... I’ve gone stepwise up to 147.5 and down to 137.5 on the mains and ended up exactly where I started.

 

[Gregory]

I find jets-r-us a bit pricey, but they do pretty much have everything....
I?m not sure that the stock needle being big and fat translates to lower performance, I?m sure the engineers at Mikuni had their reasons. And yes, the factory pro needle looks similar to the stock needle. I?ve measured the two side by side, and the taper is a bit different; but nothing too drastic. Actually, iirc, the stock gs850 needle is even more similar to the factory pro needle. I ran for years with pods, 4-1, and factory needle shimmed up..... and it ran pretty good. I feel like it ran smoother through the midrange with the FP needles, but top end was about the same. Btw - with the stock needle shimmer up, I was also at 47.5/142.5..... I?ve gone stepwise up to 147.5 and down to 137.5 on the mains and ended up exactly where I started.

Thanks everyone. I called Factory Pro today and they recommended that since it may take some fine tuning to not hurry to get it done before the upcoming ride. So I got the stock airbox back on and have plans for buying the factory pro set in the near future. He told me to stick with KN or APE or UniFilter...and said unifilters provide more air flow so I guess I will google those.


It sucks that all the other brands wont work because of blocking the air jet, because now many on ebay look just like the k&ns.

 

[posplayr]

I find jets-r-us a bit pricey, but they do pretty much have everything....
I’m not sure that the stock needle being big and fat translates to lower performance, I’m sure the engineers at Mikuni had their reasons. And yes, the factory pro needle looks similar to the stock needle. I’ve measured the two side by side, and the taper is a bit different; but nothing too drastic. Actually, iirc, the stock gs850 needle is even more similar to the factory pro needle. I ran for years with pods, 4-1, and factory needle shimmed up..... and it ran pretty good. I feel like it ran smoother through the midrange with the FP needles, but top end was about the same. Btw - with the stock needle shimmer up, I was also at 47.5/142.5..... I’ve gone stepwise up to 147.5 and down to 137.5 on the mains and ended up exactly where I started.

People have tried to jet the 1100E using the stock need with just bigger main jets and it just will not tune properly. The main issue is the 4:1 has a distinct drop in flow at 4-6K when the pipe is back flowing. The stock set is much more linear.

 

[Rob S.]

I was going to suggest waiting till after your trip. Also, I think the Dynojet kit is worth the $. Easier to tune, and no coughs or stutters from idle to red line.

IIRC, the Dynojet Stage 3 was used for my 11E.

 

[Gregory]

I was going to suggest waiting till after your trip. Also, I think the Dynojet kit is worth the $. Easier to tune, and no coughs or stutters from idle to red line.

IIRC, the Dynojet Stage 3 was used for my 11E.

Well I put the stock airbox back on with the bigger mains and it is still falling off at 7k rpms. I went and bought new plugs and that didnt cure it.... so i dont know what could be going wrong. If I let off a little or go slow it sometimes goes higher..so must be a fuel issue but dont know what.

If it is floats or something I dont know why it would appear all of a sudden. It ran pretty good with the new pipe on it for a while before noticing this issue.

In frustration I called and ordered the FP kit today. I have no idea if it will help or not. Im baffled.

 

[Carter Turk]

My stock ignitor was breaking up @ 7K rpm on the one and only dyno run I ever did on an 1150 streetbike.
You could see it in the dyno graph readout.
Worked apparently well up until that point, got solid HP n Torque numbers, then nothing after that.
Maybe it's not carb related at all, might be all electrical or not.
Dyna-S might help eliminate the issue, by taking the ignitor out of the equation.
I used a mechanical advancer from an 1100 to replace a stock 1150 setup.
Seems all 4-1's create a flat spot somewhere in the curve, usually right where you might spend a lot time at a certain cruising rpm, but show HP higher up in the range, where street bikes don't spend much time.

The bike did have a FP jet kit with FP emulsion tubes installed, however this was a 90 GSXR 36mm 1100 slingshot carb setup on a relatively stock 1150 motor (3mm) over bore.

My wifes 1150ES has 36mm stock carbs w/dyno jet kit, K&N filters, Yosh 4-1 pipe, stock ignitor, 135 Mikuni mains not DJ (120-122.5 stock) 47.5 pilots (45 stock), needle on middle clip.
It's been running well since 1998 when I bought it, but sometimes is difficult to start after long periods of sleep in a unheated garage.

 

[Guest]

my understanding has been that just a 4-1 with no intake changes usually does not require a rejet. I'm no expert.

 

[posplayr]

my understanding has been that just a 4-1 with no intake changes usually does not require a rejet. I'm no expert.

yes those are all those 4:1 bikes with blue near the head.

 

[Gregory]

My stock ignitor was breaking up @ 7K rpm on the one and only dyno run I ever did on an 1150 streetbike.
You could see it in the dyno graph readout.
Worked apparently well up until that point, got solid HP n Torque numbers, then nothing after that.
Maybe it's not carb related at all, might be all electrical or not.
Dyna-S might help eliminate the issue, by taking the ignitor out of the equation.
I used a mechanical advancer from an 1100 to replace a stock 1150 setup.
Seems all 4-1's create a flat spot somewhere in the curve, usually right where you might spend a lot time at a certain cruising rpm, but show HP higher up in the range, where street bikes don't spend much time.

The bike did have a FP jet kit with FP emulsion tubes installed, however this was a 90 GSXR 36mm 1100 slingshot carb setup on a relatively stock 1150 motor (3mm) over bore.

My wifes 1150ES has 36mm stock carbs w/dyno jet kit, K&N filters, Yosh 4-1 pipe, stock ignitor, 135 Mikuni mains not DJ (120-122.5 stock) 47.5 pilots (45 stock), needle on middle clip.
It's been running well since 1998 when I bought it, but sometimes is difficult to start after long periods of sleep in a unheated garage.

Thank you for that lead on the igniter because I am starting to think my issue may not have anything to do with the carbs now. I do have a spare 1983 1100 parts bucket that I think has one, which is good because the oem parts lookup has it priced at [TABLE="width: 100%, align: left"]
[TR]
[TD]Part# 32900-45120[/TD]
[TD]Desc UNIT, IGNITER -SU[/TD]
[TD]USD Price 703.74[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]

 

[TxGSrider]

Thank you for that lead on the igniter because I am starting to think my issue may not have anything to do with the carbs now. I do have a spare 1983 1100 parts bucket that I think has one, which is good because the oem parts lookup has it priced at [TABLE="width: 100%, align: left"]
[TR]
[TD]Part# 32900-45120[/TD]
[TD]Desc UNIT, IGNITER -SU[/TD]
[TD]USD Price 703.74[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]

I may have one if you need one Greg.

 

[Gregory]

I may have one if you need one Greg.

Thank you for the offer but I think i have one. BTW, I didnt think to see if I could rev real high while in nuetral...but i did today and it did not bog / shut down... so it looks like whatever is the problem it happens under load only.