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Gs1100es airbox/carb removal

  • Thread starter Thread starter KL FLASH
  • Start date Start date
K

KL FLASH

Guest
Hello!

New to the forum but certainly not new to motorcycles. As some of you know, when you're a bike guy, many times cast off bikes seem to find you... Last week, I got a call from a friend who knew a guy who was cleaning his basement and had an old Suzuki and was looking for someone to give it a home instead of going to the scrap yard.. Well, we spoke and on Saturday, the guy delivered it to my house. It's an 83 GS1100ES, bought it new, used one season (5k on the odo) had a very mild spill and there it sat for the last 32 years. It's all there, totally unmolested but in dire need of attention. Fortunately, it was always inside, dry storage, not siezed, clutch works fine too.

I'm going to start with an entire fuel system cleaning and looking at the airbox, it looks like a chore to remove. Any tips on how to remove the airbox on the 1100ES?

Thanks,

Kurt
 
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Best tip I got related to the airbox is to leave it alone. Make sure you have a good clean filter installed and enjoy the perfect mixture just the way Suzuki intended. If you are insistent on modifying the intake system the best way to go is some real K&N pods. Not some junky generic pods. And get a Dynojet kit. There is more to rejetting than just throwing some larger mains in the carbs. At the end of the day you are going to be into the bike to the tune of about $225+ to do the mods.
 
On the other hand, ... just why are you wanting to remove the airbox? If you are wanting to install individual pod filters, Nessism has it right, But if you are wanting to remove it to be able to remove the carbs, you are putting the cart before the horse. Loosen the clamps on both sides of the carbs, push the carbs back, out of the engine, twist them a bit, they will come out of the airbox boots, then slide the carbs out the right side. When they have come out about halfway, there is enough room to remove the throttle cable and "choke" cable. No need to remove the airbox first.

.
 
I dont see anywhere in the OP's post where he says he wants to use pods - he just says he wants to clean the fuel system and probably thinks the air box needs to come off for this.

Steve has set you on the right track - but there also should be a bit of extra play with being able to move the airbox back a bit as well.
 
Steve said:
On the other hand, ... just why are you wanting to remove the airbox? If you are wanting to install individual pod filters, Nessism has it right, But if you are wanting to remove it to be able to remove the carbs, you are putting the cart before the horse. Loosen the clamps on both sides of the carbs, push the carbs back, out of the engine, twist them a bit, they will come out of the airbox boots, then slide the carbs out the right side. When they have come out about halfway, there is enough room to remove the throttle cable and "choke" cable. No need to remove the airbox first.

.
Click to expand...

Thanks very much. This bike has not run in 30+ years. I'm going to do a full carb service and assumed the airbox needed to be removed before pulling the carb bank. -Not modifiying anything. Certainly not going to pods just want to make it run as it did in stock form.

Really appreciate the quick replies, I'm sure there will be more questions.

Kurt
 
I admit to never owning an 1100 but any gs I4 ive ever owned (7) you arent getting the airbox out without first removing the carbs anyway
 
Wait lol... Actually i have owned an 1100gl..sorry i have a bit of a problem
 
It may be different on my GS1100E (1980) but removing the 2 bolts that hold on the air box makes it WAY easier to remove the carbs.
 
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Air boxes are usually attached to the frame with a couple of bolts. If you remove the bolts the air box is loose and you can push it back a little for more clearance to remove the carbs.

I loosen all clamps on both sides of the carbs. Remove the bolts hold the air box to the frame. Pull the carbs out of the insulators and slide out the right side of the bike, as others have mentioned. You usually have to rock the carb rack up and down to loosen them from the insulators enough to pull them out. On bikes that have sat for a long time I will squirt Silicon spray between the carb throat and the insulators as good as I can. The extra lube will help removing the carbs.
 
Thanks for the info, got the carbs off and fortunately, the slides aren't stuck and diaphragms still pliable. Pulling the bowls, dried tar like residue but seen much worse. Any suggestions on carb kits? See the aftermarket ones on ebay for 30 bucks, OEM Suzuki pushing 80.
 
Pretty much everyone here will advise you to avoid kits like the plague. Most times the metal bits are serviceable after cleaning. You should fully disassemble the rack and replace the various o rings though. Check Cycle O Rings out. Bob is a member here and sells the o ring sets.

.......and welcome. .... We love pictures...
 
KL FLASH said:
Thanks for the info, got the carbs off and fortunately, the slides aren't stuck and diaphragms still pliable. Pulling the bowls, dried tar like residue but seen much worse. Any suggestions on carb kits? See the aftermarket ones on ebay for 30 bucks, OEM Suzuki pushing 80.
Click to expand...

Check my signature for a tutorial on how to clean the carbs right the first time. No kits needed other than O-rings (most of the time).
 
I have cleaned/restored probably 20, or more, racks of carbs and can only remember buying one jet. That one the PO had ruined the screw slot and I had to pretty much destroy the jet getting it out. But I replace every O-ring and Bob's kit is the best deal anywhere. Get yourself some good picks to remove the old O-rings to make the job easier.

Get the O-rings here:
http://www.cycleorings.com/


Here are the two sets I use, both from Harbor Freight:
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-pick-and-hook-set-66836.html

this set is made with much stiffer material.
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-o-ring-hook-scribe-set-42159.html

Both are sharp and you will get puncture wounds, to your fingers, until you work with them a while....Just sayin'
 
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The 1100ES is the first motorcycle that one of the big 3 magazines got into the 10s with in the quarter. I have the issue around home, somewhere. I'm not sure if I personally prefer it to the 1100E of the same year, but they are a little different and far more rare. Nice find.
 
jdvorchak said:
I have cleaned/restored probably 20, or more, racks of carbs and can only remember buying one jet. That one the PO had ruined the screw slot and I had to pretty much destroy the jet getting it out. But I replace every O-ring and Bob's kit is the best deal anywhere. Get yourself some good picks to remove the old O-rings to make the job easier.

Get the O-rings here:
http://www.cycleorings.com/


Here are the two sets I use, both from Harbor Freight:
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-pick-and-hook-set-66836.html

this set is made with much stiffer material.
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-o-ring-hook-scribe-set-42159.html

Both are sharp and you will get puncture wounds, to your fingers, until you work with them a while....Just sayin'
Click to expand...

Thanks very much! I just ordered the o-rings from the above link. Really appreciate the info!

Kurt
 
850 Combat said:
The 1100ES is the first motorcycle that one of the big 3 magazines got into the 10s with in the quarter. I have the issue around home, somewhere. I'm not sure if I personally prefer it to the 1100E of the same year, but they are a little different and far more rare. Nice find.
Click to expand...

I recall Cycle World saying that the addition of the fairing enabled it to hit 140 mph. I believe the engine is identical.
 
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