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GS1100G questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter chiphead
  • Start date Start date
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chiphead

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Any other 1982 GS1100G owners out there that can answer a question? Maybe Miss Fabulous can chime in.
The engine numbers on my 1100G start with "U701-" Anyone seen this before. I seem to remember that all engine numbers started with the model/displacement of the bike. Any input would be appreciated.

Also, I have a factory manual and have my fork seals in my sights but I do not have the tool necessary to measure the levels once refilled. Anyone have a guess how much is actually removed using the tool to drain it off?

How about fork oil weight? Manual calls for 15w, which my local Slozuki dealer doesn't have. The young pr*ck at the counter is telling me "that's way to heavy" I almost told him to STFU because the bike is older than him!

TIA
 
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When I replaced the fork oil in my forks, I drained all of the old out and then used a graduated syringe to refill the forks. The forks in an '84 GS1000GL require 245ccs of fork oil, I am not sure if the '85 is the same, but I cannot imaging that it would be that different. I used 15 weight, and it is working very well with 10 lbs of air. Get a shop manual if at all possible. Remember: 1cc = 1ml (Very helpful with graduated basting syringes of the type used in cooking, this is what I used).
 
I haven't checked out my VIN yet, and mine is an 82, but I've learned there are Gs, GKs and GK2s and I haven't figured out exactly what the difference is yet. My floorboards and highway pegs say Suzuki, so I'm guessing that I mihgt have a GK2, IOW a GK with some extra gadgets. It also has cruise control (which has three positions, two of which lock the throttle from snapping back but I've ony checked this out at 0 mph) and a choke control on the left bar handle. Does yours have these features, or were they just put on the touring models?

As for fork oil, if it's a factory manual, I would go with that. From what I understand and can see myself is that the Gs have a larger and wider fork than most bikes, at least the GK does, so heavier than usual oil doesn't seem insane. I've been told that all G parts are interchangeable from the 850s and up but not with the Ls or Es. There are several members who have much more experience with the Gs and GKs and I would seek them out if I were you - knowledge is power and these guys are willing to help.

I'm in this for the long haul and I'm willing to bet you are too, so we'll figure this stuff out together along the way. Fortunately, we have a lot of great people behind us to help us out who have already been there and done that. We'll likely give them some chuckles along the way, but that wont stop them from pointing us in the right direction!
 
The Enginine SN on my 1100GK also starts with U701...If you have a caliper the depth end (not the jaws) can be used to accurately measure the fork oil level. Automatic transmission fluid works just fine in the forks too.
 
I have (3) 82' GS1100glZ bikes. All (3) engine numbers start as U701- followed by the actual serial number. (2) of mine appear to have built pretty closely to each other. serial wise.
The 82 1100gl does take 245ml or 8.28 US oz o5 15 weight oil. ATF (automatic transmission fluid) is a good/better substitute. It maintains its viscosity in cold weather better than 15 oil. has better lubricating and cleaning properties.
and
MY own thought, ATF, used in hydraulic functions of auto transmissions, should be a better choice for hydraulic dampning too?

best to drain all out, and add measured amount.
 
Thanks for all the feedback.
Maybe a stupid question, but any brand of ATF is acceptable?
 
Choose it like you would engine oil brand. Recognized name, good quality. I use a Dextron 4 spec.

I can not say if the (showing my age possibly) old Type F ATF is fine to use. The Type F was a Ford deignated spec that required special friction modifiers for use with the Ford C-6? transmission.
 
chiphead said:
Thanks for all the feedback.
Maybe a stupid question, but any brand of ATF is acceptable?
Click to expand...

I don't think it matters... I have been using whatever type of ATF I have had sitting in garage for the past thirty years in 11 different bikes. Change it every other year and don't give it a second thought...
 
The fork oil LEVEL is what's important -- the amount of oil is admittedly easier to measure, but it is not important. The levels are supposed to be within 1mm of each other in both fork legs.

The Clymer/Haynes manuals give instructions for a simple contraption using a large syringe or suction pump and a piece of hose that can be used to precisely set fork oil levels. You dump in the required amount of oil plus a bit, then slurp out the excess.

Also keep in mind that Progressive springs are thicker, so they displace more oil. This means you will require slightly less oil to maintain the same fork oil level. If there's no level given in the manual, Progressive recommends no higher than 140mm from the top of the tubes, measured with the fork springs removed and the fork legs compressed all the way.

Personally, i use 15W fork oil plus 10% motor honey to make it a bit thicker, but I am heavier and faster than the general population, and the forks on my GS850 are more worn than most after nearly 80,000 miles. Most people will be happy with straight 10W or 15W fork oil, but you can easily fine-tune to suit your taste with motor honey to make it thicker or ATF to make it thinner.
 
If the local suzuki store doesn't have any 15 weight why not try a different dealership? You don't need Suzuki specific oil.

The factory manual on my 81 GS550T lists different oil amounts at different places in the book so sometimes it's hard to tell what to do. I wound up using the greater of the two amounts listed since it just "seemed right" to me.

Regarding what oil to use, in my manual Suzuki recommends "equal amounts of 10W-30 oil and ATF" or 15 weight fork oil. I think straight ATF is lower viscosity than 15 weight fork oil so keep this in mind.
 
Some great info here. Thanks!
Anyone else care to weigh in on the whole ATF issue? Anyone mix 10W30 with ATF as Nessism suggests?
 
chiphead said:
Some great info here. Thanks!
Anyone else care to weigh in on the whole ATF issue? Anyone mix 10W30 with ATF as Nessism suggests?
Click to expand...

You'll just have to try it and see - different riders on different bikes with different fork springs, different levels of wear and different preferences will arrive at different answers.

As long as there's some kind of oil-ish substance in there that gets changed every year or two, you're not going to hurt anything. Go nuts! Experiment!
 
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