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GS1100L Brakes :((

  • Thread starter Thread starter tilly
  • Start date Start date
T

tilly

Guest
I have a 1980 GS1100L with only 17k. Since I purchased this bike I've had it in the shop working on the brakes. Particularly the critical front brakes. Even after rebuilding the front calipers, master cylinder, and replacing the brake lines it still stops like an old Caddy. I really don't care what I must do to get this bike to stop like a modern bike so any advise or tribal knowledge would be very helpful.

Thanks
 
If you want it to stop like a modern bike install a conversion kit, they are available for a price. Those that have done so have reported good results.
When you rebuilt your calipers did you install new pads as well?
Are the new lines stainless?
These changes will make your 1980 brakes as good as they can be, but they will never match the performance of brake components with 30+ years of improvements and enhancements, unfortunately.
 
Yes yes

Yes yes

Yes I've replaced the brake lines with custom braided stainless steel and of course replaced the brake pads. Everything is rebuilt with new parts.

That's great if they make conversion kit I just need to know who and I'll buy it. I haven't found any kits but maybe I'm looking at the wrong companies. Definitely can't find them doing simple Google searches so that's why I joined the forum. So tell me who makes these kits. If a newer bikes braking system will bolt on I would like to know which ones. I would really like a dual pistion caliper kit.
 
A forum member sells some adapters to use parts from several other bikes.
After you go to all the trouble to find all of the parts, you could easily be into it over $500.00.
Besides the time searching for the parts to become available on Ebay.

Have you tried replacing the pads with GG or HH rated pads?

Daniel
 
Ok

Ok

Name of the user that sells parts. $500 to safely stop seems like a good investment.
 
??

??

Don't know what GG or HH pads are? I can't imagine just a pad swap making a drastic change which is what I want. I stand on the front brake lever and the bike doesn't respond that well. I must use my rear brake as it seems to perform better.
 
The letters correspond to the stopping capabilities of the friction material on the pads.
The first letter is for dry traction and the second is for wet traction.
It is printed on the side of the friction material on the pads as well as the back like this one on the left:

DSC06508.jpg


The higher the letters alphabetically, the better the stopping capability.
Someone HAS to come forward and tell you that the more aggressive pads will make your rotors disappear in short order. Not true.
See if Ferrado, Vesrah, SBS or any other manufacturer sells them for your application.

Daniel
 
If you do it right it's not that close to 500 Daniel.

Look up Salty_Monk's twinpot conversion. I just did mine and once I can get the bike back on the road I'll be able to tell just how good it works.
 
I put these brakes on my GS1100G which was a real slug in the braking department. It works well, and it is well worth the money especially if you shop around for a good deal on the parts. It will not stop like a modern bike, but it is a lot closer.
However, the original brakes can work fairly well with good maintenance. A medium hard pull with two fingers is all I ever need for max effort stops on my 650G, the 750/1000 last year was just as good. I don't know what is wrong with yours, put age hardened low friction pads are a likely place to look.

If you want the one finger stoppies of a modern sport bike, it's just not going to happen on an old GS without a Hell of a lot of work.
 
tilly, I can tell from your posts that you really need to contact Salty_Monk. He's a great guy, he has sold a number of these conversion kits, and the results are far better than you could ever achieve by enhancing the original brake system. And no, I don't work for him. :D
 
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